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Old 05-29-2006, 07:56 AM
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how to SUPER seal an intake?

I had a pretty bad oil leak on the driver's side of the intake on my freshly built (50 miles) SBC and I have removed the intake to replace the gasket and hopefully seal it this time.

The oil was leaking pretty much the length of the engine from front to rear on the driver's side between the intake and the cylinder head.

No machine work was done to the heads other than a blast and paint. The intake had been on the same heads with no leaking before the rebuild.

Is there a way I can SUPER seal the gaskets, maybe using RTV sealant between the heads and gaskets AND gaskets and intake? I REALLY dont want to have the intake off again!

The front and rear were fine, I had run a bead of sealant along the front/rear rails and it worked fine.

PS, I plan to use thread sealant on each bolt to ensure nothing come up through the bolt threads.

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Old 05-29-2006, 09:03 AM
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Basically, there is no oil in that area to leak. What might have happened is one bolt leaked oil and it ran down the intake. The front and rear intake bolts are in a dead end hole on each side, the rest go through to the valley area and can leak if not sealed when installed. Personally, I use Permatex #2 on those.
Another is the valve cover gasket.

As far as a sealant on the intake gaskets, i'd say no. Use the Felpro blue gaskets and you should be fine. If you must use something, personally I again use the Permatex #2 at the water passages but only if the surface is not smooth.

Front and rear seals........If I use cork, I use 3M weather strip adheasive to glue them to the block, knocked off the rear on too many times trying to fanagle the intake on. I also use a little dab of silicone where that gasket meets the intake.
A bead of silicone in place of the front and rear gaskets is now the new thing too. Just make sure you let it dry before starting. At my sons shop, he uses "Right Stuff" or the gray silicone. Both have great holding power and have a great track record.

Mark
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Old 05-29-2006, 09:08 AM
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If your using a aluminum intake do not use fel pro gaskets, use the Mr Gasket jobs or the like. Fel pro`s won`t crush properly when use of a lighter aluminum intake is in place and can cause a leak.
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Old 05-29-2006, 09:08 AM
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clear silicone sealer on the bolt that hold the intake on will take care of your problem.spread it evenly and sparinly on the bolt.it seals very well but is hell to clean next time if too much is used but it won't hurt anything.
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:25 AM
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Since your engine is freshly rebuilt you probably have had the block decked and the heads milled slightly. You should look at the manifold/head alignment prior to installing the gaskets to be sure there is not a mismatch now. Milling can also alter the port match significantly.

Sealant is not to be a crutch for a poor gasket.
I don't like sealant on any intake gasket,
except a tiny bit around the water ports. Spread just enough with your finger to see the sealant on the gasket.

Be sure and let sealant dry 24 hours before starting the engine.
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmark
At my sons shop, he uses "Right Stuff"
IMHO, the best sealant availiable. Used properly, this stuff can be returned to service immediatly, and will never leak.Can be an SOB to get apart and clean later, but beats silicone hands down for sealing ability.
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Old 05-29-2006, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
IMHO, the best sealant availiable. Used properly, this stuff can be returned to service immediatly, and will never leak.Can be an SOB to get apart and clean later, but beats silicone hands down for sealing ability.

You mean vacuum won't suck it in through the gaps before it sets? or water pressure won't blow it out before it sets? seriously.....
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Old 05-29-2006, 03:29 PM
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I never use the rubber or cork gaskets for the two ends. Instead, I just run a thick bead of silicone along the block at each end. Be sure to get it right down into the crack between the corner of the head and the block. Put the manifold on before it cures. When you put the intake back down, it'll squish the silicone bead down and perfectly seal the ends. Cork and rubber can leak because how does the manufacturer know what thickness is required? Milled heads, blocks, and just plain variability can make the required thickness between the block and manifold unpredictable. Make sure the block and manifold are super clean so the silicone sticks. It works well and I know I'm not the only one doing this.
For the head-to-intake gaskets, just use a good quality gasket and torque the manifold correctly. All will be well.
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Old 05-29-2006, 07:12 PM
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OK, intake 'seems' to be leak proof now.

I used the 1/4" bead of silicon on the front and rear and torqued the intake noting the sequence as well as torque.

I am now almost sure I didnt follow the sequence last time and tightened one side first, the side that didnt leak, followed by the other side, which did leak. I just dont remember following the sequence.

I havent taken it out at on the local highway yet but it is staying dry at sub-30MPH speeds. Previously, it only leaked at high speed but did show some minor moisture at low speeds, so I wont count my chickens just yet.

Unfortunately the engine now idles rough, almost as is it is firing on 7, and stalls after a few seconds upon the trans being put into drive. I must have done something wrong in a prior life to deserve all this.
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:28 PM
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Check firing order / timing
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
You mean vacuum won't suck it in through the gaps before it sets? or water pressure won't blow it out before it sets? seriously.....

This has been my experience with "Right Stuff". If a person has zero experience with repair work, I would not reccomend this stuff, as you must assemble the components within 5 minutes of laying down the bead. I have done intakes (lots) with it, and by the time you are done reassembly, the sealant is ready to be returned to service. Anywhere I used to use silicone, I now use this.

This product is also endorsed and reccomended by the OEM's. GM 998-5990, Ford WSE-M4 323-A6, Chrysler GF-44-A.
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
This has been my experience with "Right Stuff". If a person has zero experience with repair work, I would not reccomend this stuff, as you must assemble the components within 5 minutes of laying down the bead. I have done intakes (lots) with it, and by the time you are done reassembly, the sealant is ready to be returned to service. Anywhere I used to use silicone, I now use this.

This product is also endorsed and reccomended by the OEM's. GM 998-5990, Ford WSE-M4 323-A6, Chrysler GF-44-A.
Do you recommend a bead on both surfaces or just on the block? 5 minutes from application to laying down the intake or to actually having it bolted down? On regular black RTV others have recommended putting beads down on both surfaces and waiting until the skim over before installing the intake.
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Old 06-06-2006, 01:41 PM
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Just on the block, and do not wait for the "skin". This stuff needs to be assembled within five minutes of application. Evertyhing must be claen and dry, or just as any sealant, it will not seal.
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