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Old 08-23-2006, 12:36 PM
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How to support frame while working on it..

I'm getting ready to install TCI's Mustang II IFS & 4 link rear on my 54 Chevy pickup. Does anybody have any recommendations on how to support the frame and keep it level / square while the removal install takes place. My jackstands just dont look like they will hold it high enough. I was thinking about settting them up on cinder blocks and 4x4's

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Old 08-23-2006, 12:55 PM
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When I plan on doing my frame I will get myself four pieces of square tubing, weld a plate or foot to the bottom and bolt it directly to the garage floor, (make the legs as high as it needs to be comfortable to work on). Then set the frame up on these four legs and level, then level gain. Tack weld the frame to the legs and you have a very stiff level platform to begin the repairs. Plus no matter what you (or someone else) does it will not come off and hit the floor. Just my .02

Steve
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Old 08-23-2006, 01:04 PM
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Try this method

I bought 2 set's of jack stands specifically for working on my 4X4, they are bigger and go up higher than the ones for a car. You will need to level the frame on 6-jack stands measuring the height from all 4 corners and a spot on each side near the center of the lenght of the frame. Now measure back from the front and rear the same amount on both sides of the frame and marking the frame front and rear and at the center so you have a spot to Check from to see if they are the same height front to back and side to side, shim as needed. Drop a plum-bob to the floor from the frame mark and mark the exact spot it hits on the floor. You are now ready to see if your frame if square front to rear and side to side. You will put a chalk line side to side on the plum-bob marks on the floor and a chalk line front to rear from those same marks. Then using a square see if the frame it square on the marks. Now you can go on from here knowing your frame is at the exact same height all 4 corners and is square. You can use this method measuring from right corner to the left corner front to rear and from the left corner to the right corner front to rear to locate the exact spot on the frame to install your rear end so it is square to the front end. Measure twice cut once. Always double check your measurements...ALWAYS!


Tazz

Last edited by tm454; 08-23-2006 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
I was thinking about settting them up on cinder blocks and 4x4's
\

I cant believe that no one else noticed the above statement.

Never EVER put a vehicle on cinder blocks.

ever bump one and it shattered? (whilst not cemented into a wall that is) Prior to go in Naval aviation I was a firefighter/paramedic ran three calls in one year that all were folks using cinder blocks to hold their vehicle up while they worked on it.

Dont do it!
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:05 PM
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Great advice Kallie49!!!!!!!
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:14 PM
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31Steve has given the best and the safest way to do it.
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:48 PM
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I like this way ...
A small chassis jig ...
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:50 PM
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Thanks..

Okay cinder blocks are out!!! but I dont want to drill holes in my garage floor either. any other ideas??
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:53 PM
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And don't ever do it the way this guy has done it.



Don
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by donsrods
And don't ever do it the way this guy has done it.



Don
Hey! Thats how we do it in Alabama baby!
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:00 PM
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Hey! Thats how we do it in Alabama baby!
He's telling the truth!
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kallie49

I cant believe that no one else noticed the above statement.

Never EVER put a vehicle on cinder blocks.

ever bump one and it shattered? (whilst not cemented into a wall that is) Prior to go in Naval aviation I was a firefighter/paramedic ran three calls in one year that all were folks using cinder blocks to hold their vehicle up while they worked on it.

Dont do it!
if you put the bars verticle, they are fine, set them horizontal and they will crack. I have put many vehicles on cinder blocks, just not very high nor have I put blocks on more than 1 corner. never had 1 even start to crack. I use standard 12" blocks. my '67 Falcon's front end structure sits up too high for my jack stands to work, so I put the block under, and then set a jack stand center of the block/ frame and lower the bumper jack down just until it touches the frame.
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:00 PM
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Heres a good idea

Hey Deuce... I like your shop..could i use it for about 2 weeks?? Looks more like a professional shop not a shadetree like me.
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Old 08-25-2006, 09:04 PM
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if you put the bars verticle, they are fine, set them horizontal and they will crack. I have put many vehicles on cinder blocks, just not very high nor have I put blocks on more than 1 corner. never had 1 even start to crack. I use standard 12" blocks. my '67 Falcon's front end structure sits up too high for my jack stands to work, so I put the block under, and then set a jack stand center of the block/ frame and lower the bumper jack down just until it touches the frame.
suit yourself, tell that to the three blokes we had to use airbags to lift the cars off of....well as two of em, they were lucky and lived with minor maiming...the other had his head squashed like a grape...he was actually one of the two that were doing it the way you discribed...but then again experience is the best instructor
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DV8
Hey Deuce... I like your shop..could i use it for about 2 weeks??
The commute from Denver would be rough ...
At least 1500 miles 1 way ...
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