I'm a beginner and was wondering what the best and proper way to wax a car is? I basically did it once like this video outlines. Washed and dried throughly, applied wax and then rubbed it off within 15-20 minutes.

http://www.ehow.com/video_1327_wax-car.html

I have found a lot of differing opinions on this subject. A lot of people seem to suggest that to make you car's paint actually last longer you should hand-applying everything instead of using a buffer-polisher. If not used properly they'll ruin you car finish. Is this true?

What about all these other things they sell for washing/waxing a car. Some people suggested using the works like clay bars, sealants, pre-wax, wax, and a whole lot of other stuff. Is a lot of this necessary for getting a really good everyday wax job. The clay bars seem like a useful thing to get. Has anybody used those? Do they work well?

Here are some sites I found

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

I don't need a show car finish, but I would like to get all the dirt off my car and protect the paint so it will last a long time. What's the best way to do this? What's the method most people use?

I prefer to hand wax myself. I do have a buffer and use it sometimes too, but it is not one that will burn the paint off. Those are usually the ones the pro's use and if you have one of those hi-dollar buffers it will damage the paint on hi spots of the body and corners and such. There are tons of products out there. I prefer the Mother's products myself. Between wash jobs I will apply a spray on, wipe off polish also just to keep the shine up. I've only used a bug and tar remover for tree sap and road tar. Never had cause to use any of the other products.

I apply and remove by hand. I too prefer Mothers products, although Meguires is excellent too.

Clay bars are great to remove build up, fine scratches and dirt embedded in the paint. Be sure to get the fine grade, otherwise you will be removing swirls.

Using the multi-step products is o.k., but not necessary with a good was to begin with.

Jason

Unless you know for sure it's OK to do so with whatever product you're using, don't wax a car in the sun.

If you're just using wax (not cleaner-wax or polish-wax) then by hand is preferred.

The basic thing is this; its a bit frustrating to follow since the stuff on the shelf tends to interchange the words "polish" and "wax". I'll try to clear it up for you. For the most part, wax is carnuba wax. Its a waxy extract from the carnuba plant. It does a wonderful job of protecting paint and shining a car, but it doesn't last long and harsh detergents wash it off. If you've ever put a thumbprint on dull paint you notice that its darker and shinier. The oils in carnuba wax do the same thing, but they're good for the paint. You apply it, it dries, then you rub off the excess leaving a smooth surface.

Polish, like NuFinish or other fancy stuff is a wax-like substance that supposedly lasts longer than carnuba, but in my opinion it sucks, and doesn't shine nearly as well. Its also a misleading name because polish is an abrasive, not a protective coating. I say just avoid them and use Carnuba.

True polishes are for oxidized paint or paint with hairline scratches. They are often used with buffers to physically remove the top layer of oxidation or to polish off the scratches. If not done correctly, a polish on a rotary buffer will eat through paint faster than Roseanne Barr at a buffet. Best left to the more experienced. Polish can be applied by hand with little or no damage possible, but to do a whole car takes a lot of elbow grease. For that reason some products like Color Back incorporate a light polish with wax. Its a one step thing, but it can be frustrating. Once you've gone over an area, if you notice that it still has oxidation, you have to get through the layer of wax you just left to get to the oxidation.

If you're starting from a freshly sanded paint job, you could go through every step which might look like this: a light rubbing compound on a rotary buffer, a polish on a rotary buffer, a glaze (very fine polish) on either a rotary buffer or by hand), then a wax. Advances in technology have made it possible to go straight from a 2000-grit sanded finish to almost perfect with microcrystalline polishes.

Where you start depends on your finish. Is it chalky and dull? Does it have "spiderwebs" or hairline scratches? If so, I suggest trying Color Back. It does a pretty darn fine job. It takes a lot of elbow grease, but its worth it. If you don't have chalky oxidized paint, but very light hairlines, I say just go with the carnuba wax. It will fill in the little hairlines and do a fine job.

If you want to speed the job along, try an orbital buffer. You can usually get hobbyist buffers at parts stores for 20-30 bucks and since they don't spin (just vibrate) its nearly impossible to damage anything. It will cut your effort down a good bit. Most of them won't do enough work to really make a cleaner work well, but at least you can experiment without killing the paint.

If using a cleaner-wax it sometimes helps to have a spray bottle of water and wax on a dry day. Waxing on a humid day makes removing the wax a pain in the butt. If you're doing it on a dry day you can use the spray bottle to keep the applicator a little damp and control how long you work the wax in one area. You should never continue working a cleaner-wax after it has started to dry. Dry abrasive in the polish won't be lubricated by the surrounding dry wax and it can make things worse.

To summarize; using a power tool like a buffer is only really preferred if you are physically altering the paint to remove oxidation or polish out scratches. For just wax, its a simple apply and remove process; very little elbow grease involved. Most cars can just get by with wax.

I'm a big fan of Meguiars products. They also do a pretty good job of explaining on the back of the bottle how to use them and when. Mother's is also a fine line of products. I personally prefer paste wax. Its not only less messy, but I feel like it has more "oil" in it and less white mess. Its also more stable long term, especially in cold climates. Sometimes liquid carnuba separates out if it gets too cold, but a can of paste wax will probably outlast your car.

For years I used traditional turtle paste wax and regular car wash soap and had good results..if I need to cut and buff then I use presta..Works for me..

Sam

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If it don't work it ain't pretty!!!!

Good point...You'll only make that mistake once!

#1 rule for waxing
DONT APPLY IN CIRCULAR MOTION!
why you ask?
because the paint will show tiny circular scratches or check marks that can only be removed with machine buffing.
wax pads pick up all kinds of dirt that become dislodged in the waxing procces.
same rule applies for drying

Sorry to semi-hijack the thread, but its along the same lines. I've been told these 'sealers' such as Nu-finish and the likes, and these factory applied 'diamond' coatings or whatnot are TERRIBLE for the life of your paint.

I was told they are silicone based, which doesn't allow the paint to breathe, and while they will make the car shiney, it will make the finish dull and crappy in several years.

True?