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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2007, 06:42 AM
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on a 240vac in older homes and applications the neutral is not used, and in most instances there will be no neutral wiring in the house for these circuits.

IF that is the case, then the existing wiring in the house (dryer circuit) will not have a red wire---(Black and white are both hot and one bare or green wire for ground)

Newer homes and most all mobiles will have 4-wire connections to the major appliances.

If you are going to use the existing 3-wire plug for the dryer, you will need a 3-wire extension. If you plan on tapping into the dryer circuit, keep in mind that operating the dryer AND compressor may overload a 30amp circuit. (one of the rules for domestic tranquility require that SHE can use all of her appliances while you are playjng with yours )

It would most likely be in your best interest to have an electrician add an additional dedicated circuit (for either a welder OR compressor) to your garage. One outlet should be suitable for either---cant't use the air and weld at the same time.

Or better yet----add a 60amp sub-panel. Then a welder, compressor and additional lighting & outlets will be just a few feet of wire away.

Bryan

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2007, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
on a 240vac in older homes and applications the neutral is not used, and in most instances there will be no neutral wiring in the house for these circuits.

IF that is the case, then the existing wiring in the house (dryer circuit) will not have a red wire---(Black and white are both hot and one bare or green wire for ground)

Newer homes and most all mobiles will have 4-wire connections to the major appliances.

If you are going to use the existing 3-wire plug for the dryer, you will need a 3-wire extension. If you plan on tapping into the dryer circuit, keep in mind that operating the dryer AND compressor may overload a 30amp circuit. (one of the rules for domestic tranquility require that SHE can use all of her appliances while you are playjng with yours )

It would most likely be in your best interest to have an electrician add an additional dedicated circuit (for either a welder OR compressor) to your garage. One outlet should be suitable for either---cant't use the air and weld at the same time.

Or better yet----add a 60amp sub-panel. Then a welder, compressor and additional lighting & outlets will be just a few feet of wire away.

Bryan
Hi Bryan59EC

First of al THANK YOU for your input.

My wife works during the day so I can play with all my stuff (I'm retired, a keeped man . . . lol)

I'll use the dryer outlet and not have a deicated line. I use one tool at a time.
My Millermatic works off 110v. So I'm O.K. there also.

As far as the wiring on my new 60gal. air compressor. I wired with help of many guys like yourself this way:

L1 (Black lead) L2 (Red Lead) and Green on ground. The White I taped.

I didn't fire-up the air compressor YET (today 5/31) but I'll wait a bit till I hear from you and maybe the rest of you guys.

Meanwhile back to using the elec. DeWalt with a 4 1/2in. cutting wheel on it to cut out the ol' rust on my '66 Mustang Convert. 'cause that's what this is all about ~ restoring my car.

Thanks again
GOD BLESS

Schooner
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2007, 11:22 PM
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That should work perfectly.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2007, 06:19 AM
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It is illegal to use the a white for a hot lead. If a neutral is not used a 10/2 with ground is normally used with a black, red and bare conductor.

From the code book


Green wires are strictly reserved for the “equipment ground.” This is the wire that is connected to the bus bar and the ground rod at the service entrance (circuit breaker box) and to the chassis of the equipment (the load.) Its purpose is to conduct electricity only when a fault is created, at which time it completes a circuit to kick the circuit breaker, or blow a fuse.
A white wire can only be used as a “grounded conductor” (also known as the “neutral”.) This wire is part of the complete circuit that carries current to the load under normal operation conditions and it is connected to the bus bar and the ground rod at the service entrance.
There are no NEC restrictions on the colors of other types of power-conducting wires that are not grounded. But there may be specific color requirements for these power wires by local electrical codes that date back to the days when the NEC was more specific. For this reason, the designer/installer of irrigation systems should always consult with local authorities on specific requirements.

Please call an electrician before you get hurt or burn up your new compressor




Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
on a 240vac in older homes and applications the neutral is not used, and in most instances there will be no neutral wiring in the house for these circuits.

IF that is the case, then the existing wiring in the house (dryer circuit) will not have a red wire---(Black and white are both hot and one bare or green wire for ground)

Newer homes and most all mobiles will have 4-wire connections to the major appliances.

If you are going to use the existing 3-wire plug for the dryer, you will need a 3-wire extension. If you plan on tapping into the dryer circuit, keep in mind that operating the dryer AND compressor may overload a 30amp circuit. (one of the rules for domestic tranquility require that SHE can use all of her appliances while you are playjng with yours )

It would most likely be in your best interest to have an electrician add an additional dedicated circuit (for either a welder OR compressor) to your garage. One outlet should be suitable for either---cant't use the air and weld at the same time.

Or better yet----add a 60amp sub-panel. Then a welder, compressor and additional lighting & outlets will be just a few feet of wire away.

Bryan
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2007, 08:44 AM
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T-Bucket

I will go along with what you are saying. However--pull a light switch from your wall--if the incoming power is going to the lamp and then to the switch, one piece of romex will have the black and white both connected to it. (I just hate this method of wiring, have to kill a circuit to work on a fixture)

I should have mentioned that the white wire if not used as a neutral, but as a power source NEEDS to have the ends taped with black tape to identify that conductor as a voltage carrying lead.

My house, built in 86---has 2 conductor/bare ground going to the range, dryer,& water heater. Black & White both volt carrying. My house in AZ, built in 83---Same. The house I had built in SLC in 98, used 3-cond + gnd, So the 4-wire would apply at that house.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2007, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
T-Bucket

I will go along with what you are saying. However--pull a light switch from your wall--if the incoming power is going to the lamp and then to the switch, one piece of romex will have the black and white both connected to it. (I just hate this method of wiring, have to kill a circuit to work on a fixture)

I should have mentioned that the white wire if not used as a neutral, but as a power source NEEDS to have the ends taped with black tape to identify that conductor as a voltage carrying lead.

My house, built in 86---has 2 conductor/bare ground going to the range, dryer,& water heater. Black & White both volt carrying. My house in AZ, built in 83---Same. The house I had built in SLC in 98, used 3-cond + gnd, So the 4-wire would apply at that house.
You are correct, this is the way some people do it but by code the white is actually supposed to have black tape or be painted black or any other color but white or yellow.
Im not saying it isnt done, its just against the electrical code to use white as a feed wire. You certainly would never pass UL with a factory wired appliance done this way
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2007, 10:15 AM
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Just wondering if you got this sorted out... This is the link to the actual compressor and I see your review on the item there as well:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

I'm picking up a used compressor tonight that could be the same one.

From the product specs, it sounds like it is intended to be direct wired to a dedicated circuit. It also says it should be done by a professional electrician only.

I've hard wired my pool pump at my last home and it said it needed to be done by a professional electrician, but one thing to note - this kind of work requires an electrical permit.. Which I have always found reassuring to have the inspector to look over my work. If you don't get a permit and it's wired wrong and the house burns down, it could be cause for your insurance rejecting any claims.

Wiring 110 for a DIY'er isn't too bad, but the higher voltages can be a little harder because there are different setups... Just take a look through the electrical aisle at Home Depot and see how many different 220 plug shapes there are!
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Old 06-23-2007, 09:23 PM
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This compressor could be wired using two different approaches. It could be hard wired to a dedicated circuit using conduit and pulling wires or it could be wired with a cord. If hard wiring you should pull a black and red wire for the voltage carrying wires and a green wire for the equipment grounding conductor. Your compressor doesn't use a 4th wire. If you use a cord with a plug cap (20 amp plug would be required in this case) the power cord would have a black and white wire for voltage carrying wires and a green wire for the equipment grounding conductor. I wouldn't use the 4 wire dryer connection. 3 wire 230V cord sets will always have black, white and green wires and they are used (black and white hot) all day long on consumer products that pass UL and CSA.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2007, 01:46 PM
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You have a 240 volt 60 hertz single phase motor. You will only need three of the wires to make the compressor run, two hots and a ground. Tape off one of the two wires, either green or white, which are both grounds. Most smaller motors like this are also re-connectible to change from 110 to 220, and it should tell you how to do this on a plate inside the cover of the motor or inside a junction box on the motor. What horsepower is the motor?
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