[Brian_B]

Hello,

I ran a few searches in here and on the net and gave up.


I have a set of 3 autometer gauges in pods I will be installing in my 56 tonight. No...I am not hacking up the dash.

I got these from a guy I knew a long time ago. They worked fine in his ranger. I was going to put them in mine. That didn't happen.

Anyway......He wrote down the installation instructions, but....

The oil pressure gauges is easy. Just hook the capillary tube to where the current oil pressure gauge is (cheap aftermarket one).

The water temp gauge just screws into the intake where the current factory electric gauge is.

Now comes the volt meter. It has the normal wires for the dash lights. Easy enough. I just wire them into the same wires for the other two gauges.

(They already are in place from the cheap oil gauge that is in there now.)

It has 2 heavier wires and I want to confirm where they go before I hook them up.

The written instructions say the hot wire goes to the battery and the other one just goes to ground. Is that correct? It seems like it would be on 24/7 that way. Shouldn't it be on a switched 12V sourch?

I assume I need a fuse in the battery side. If so, what size fuse should I use?

Thanks in advance for the advice,

Brian
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[302 Z28]

If it is indeed a voltmeter and NOT an ampmeter, you need to wire it into a keyed/fused source (usually the instrument power) that is hot when the key is on or the accessory position. The other lead goes to a good ground.

Vince

[F&J]

Yes, it needs to be switched not constant. (if it's a voltmeter!)

It would be nice to have it work when it is being cranked, so then it would show how many volts the batt has during cranking....just like a battery load tester.

If you hook it to IGN it would read a little lower due to coil draw while cranking too, but it's better that not knowing anything.

If you put it on ACC, it would kick out during cranking, but will show charging.

Fuses; if you are trying to protect the gauge, it won't. The fuse would protect the feedwire if it got shorted out near the gauge. They don't need much of a amp rating on that gauge. You could test it with an ohmmeter and then use a ohms law calculator webchart to know how much is needed....3a should work fine but at the beginning of the feedwire not by the gauge, in case the wire got shorted.

[Brian_B]

Thanks guys,

It is indeed a volt meter. I will post a pic of it:



I have a set of the three gauges to try install tonight.

[IMG][/IMG]

I am going to the ozarks run in Branson, MO Saturday and this is one of the last minute things to get done.

[F&J]

I like the big degree sweep on the temp gauge. Those old SW's with the short sweep was like having no gauge at all

Nice

[Brian_B]

I did not manage to get them wired tonight. I have so much else to get done.

I did, however, manage to get them mounted. It should not take long to wire them.




My steering wheels is crooked.

[docvette]

Doc here,

Wire the power from the INSTR fuse from your panel..IF you are stock , you probably don't have one..put a 1 amp on each gauge.

The other (black wires) go to a properly bonded ground , use star and lock washers and burnish off all paint.

IF you want to see voltage at start up..(not really needed) you may, since it is a Ford, get a 1N4001 Diode, and install it between the "I" wire, and the power wire on the gauge.The Diode will provide isolation from the I and S terminals and power so the solenoid isn't engaged or it's branch circuits...But in most cases, the reading will be the same..(It's all the B+ buss..)

Doc