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Old 10-31-2007, 01:36 PM
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How would you guys get this straight?

I installed the rear quarters and valance back on my rambler and decided to weld and fill all the body seams. The rear valance area is nothing but compound curves and dips. The only thing even close to flat is where the license plate mounts. I used lead on the seams that I welded up then, gave the whole area a light coat of filler and rough sanded with 80 grit but, I'm not sure when it comes time to finish it how I'm going to get it straight. I've used guide coat on flat panels before but haven't encountered anything quite like this. Any suggestions on how to approach this will be appreciated.

Ed
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Old 10-31-2007, 02:27 PM
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I use Dura-blocks for doing body work and block sanding. They have all differnt sizes and have a round block for curves too. They have them from 5 inch to 3 feet long or so. They are semi flexable which is what you need in those curved areas. The round block would work out good too. Also you will need time too because that will take awhile but it can be done. The blocks work great for when I have to do all that "getting the areas that arent straight straight". I hope this helps you a bit. Tim
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Old 10-31-2007, 04:32 PM
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I agree with using Durablocks and guide coat. Take long stokes to help avoid putting dips in the body filler. Your going to have to run your clean bare hand over where your sanding to feel if there are any waves. Also don't sand all in the same direction...your going to want your sanding marks to make an X.
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Old 10-31-2007, 06:36 PM
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Looks straight already, nice work.
I see a couple places where the filler has a defined edge that might need a bit of care and "feathering" and then primertime...


you got close now, stay in there!
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:42 PM
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I ran into a situation similar to that, I got a piece of, if I remember right, I would have to go find it, but it was rubber about an 1/8 of an inch thick, about three feet long, then I took some sticky backed sand paper, or maybe I used something else to stick the sand paper to the rubber.

The rubber was three or four inches wide, and I used it like a strap, it was on a cj5 jeep hood, where there kind of round, yet tapered, it was probably ten years ago, but that jeep hood was perfect with that strap.

Its hard to remember, but it was a few years ago, and I'm 66 so I don't have to say anymore.

Rob

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Old 11-01-2007, 07:03 AM
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I do have a selection of durablocks as well as others. So far, the handiest has been a 3m flat rubber piece about 1/4" thick. I guess I'm just not sure about how to get it perfect. I didn't think guide coat would work well with all the contours. I probably shouldn't be to concerned right now as I'm just fitting body panels and roughing in the body work because I still have a fair amount of fabrication to do but need the body panels located to build the wheel tubs and floor. Thanks for the input
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Old 11-01-2007, 11:47 AM
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If you want to get it "perfect" find some one with the same car that is in good condition and make templates using cardboard or poster board. Then you place the template on the same location of your car and you can clearly see where you need to sand.
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:06 AM
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I agree -- with the rounded early Ramblers the only thing you can do for perfection is make a template. The good thing about all that roundness is no one will be able to tell if it's perfect or not! As long as it looks asymmetrical no one will be able to see any minor imperfection. Flat spots would show, but that's about it. I'd just sand it by feel with a guide coat then stand back and look at it. Even with another Rambler right next to it (I've seen many at AMC/Rambler shows) you can't tell if the panel is "perfect" or not unless there are flat spots, creases, or dings in it. The curves reflect light in all directions, not directly back at you. An imperfection has to be pretty bad to show up at all.
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Old 12-12-2007, 10:15 AM
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Eastwood sells a sander called the "Ultimate Sander" It is rubber with a matal plate in the bottom and rod through the rubber foam. The rods are removable depending on how stiff you need them. I have one that is 21" long and with the rods out I used it to get the hood on my 53 GMC clean and strait. Works like nothing else. I have used the dura-blocks and there OK, but I would spend the money and get at least one of these sanders. They come in several lengths.
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:57 PM
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That sounds like an AFS sanding block. Green?
Those are THE bomb for curved,crowned,any panel that has "something" to it besides flat and with all 3 rods in,it's a nice flat block.
I got mine from TCPGlobal so I would check there first.
Well worth the money IMO.
As for checking it,Some grease & wax remover sprayed on with a squirt bottle and lightly wiped down then use the fluorescent light bulb reflection to SEE how "straight" it appears as you move up & down or over the area.
Reflection's wavy or crooked? Body is too.
It's like looking at a pool of water still, and with small ripples or waves,your reflection ,reflects it.
Look at the white line at the top of my avatar pic,Thats the bulb reflecting off my tool box lid.
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Old 12-12-2007, 02:40 PM
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The contours from left to right - I think someone else mentioned making a pattern or 2 - to match up the sides - this would get you symetrical.

From the pictures it looks to me like you've undercut most of your bodywork leaving metal high spots in many areas.

This tells me you're blocking too hard. or too much (or both)

You need long curved blocks, using a varying x-cross pattern and make sure that you're not bearing down and let the block and the paper do the work.

There's no reason not to lightly guide coat bondo - just like you would guide coat primer for blocking if that helps you.

One last tip - when running your hand across a section to physically determine straightness make sure to use your entire hand and not just your fingertips - it does make a difference.

Good Luck - should be a fun car when you get it done
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