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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2008, 06:01 PM
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Sorry, I'm with the Rusto's crap guys. If you want to use it on a lawn chair, or the kid's bike, fine....not cars. If you use the primer on a car and get a bad place, spot it in and live with it. Or do it right.

Speaking of chicken wire.....and I swear this is true. Years ago, Popular Mechanics magazine did an article about doing rust repairs. They showed a rocker panel with a hole rusted in it. They wadded up newspapers and stuffed them in the hole and filled it up with bondo. Can you imagine how long that lasted; and how much more damage that soaking newspaper might have caused later on? It'd be like this Falcon, putting scotch tape on the inside of the hood and tailgate and bondo-ing over it. OOeee!

Incidentally, I wouldn't worry too much about saving the striping. Since you are in "hot rod heaven" out there, stripers should be quite plentiful..

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2008, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
NOPE..... It's not just Rustoleum, it's doing things the wrong way, and wasting everyone's time asking how to scew it up.

This site used to be a place for people to come and find out how to do things the right way to improve their rides. If someone wanted to paint for their first time, they came here and ask how to do it. Suggestions were given on which products to use, high priced and budget priced, and the proper proceedures to use them. Now we have people constantly come here and asking how to cut corners and use CRAP to really screw up a vehicle, knowing that they are screwing it up. In many cases, I am sure, they are trying to make the vehicle appear to be in good shape so they can sucker someone into buying it. Then the new owner is stuck with dealing with the mess.

If you want to find out how to do it right, there are many professionals, and others with substantial experience available here to help. If you want to screw it up, do it yourself, as you obviously won't follow any suggestions anyway.Aaron


Exactly what I was thinking but so far speaking up against doing crap like this just seems like wasted effort, it is not a "hatred" of Rustoleum it is simply an attempt to keep the mis-informed from making a serious mistake! If a person does not "give a crap about the finish or how long it will last" then what the heck are they doing here anyway? In another thread it was pointed out that these discussions about using Rustoleum and other non-automotive paints serve a good purpose in pointing out the folly of doing such nonsense but look at what it has come to now. Now we have a thread about how to maintain Rustoleum! Asking for advice on using Rustoleum to paint a car makes about as much sense as asking whats the best kind of sawdust to use to quite a noisy transmission so what is going to happen to all the real advice we have had available if this keeps up?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2008, 06:33 PM
F&J F&J is offline
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I would never use Rustoleum or ExoRust as a top coat on anything that sits in the sun. I am not dissing these 2 products, I just disagree with the makers saying it can be used for outdoor stuff....maybe a very light color on an old steel lawn chair, but not any color that will heat quickly.




adtkart; I feel your pain
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2008, 07:02 AM
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I'm with Aaron and a couple of others that have posted to this thread. I started out as a rank amateur when it came to painting with the "new" paints. I had expected to farm out the job but when $12 to $15,000 quotes started coming in, decided it was best to learn how to do a paint job. In the long run, materials and a couple of spray guns cost me a couple of thousand dollars. As far as help - these guys here got me through a very nice paint job. Does it have flaws - you bet. Are they better or worse then a pro shop - well not some I've seen. Will the paint shine - it sure does and with minimum care, will for years to come. If I had done the Hot Rod magazine $100 paint job, it's life expectancy would be in months. The hours to prep would double or more as the car would have to go back to bare metal. If I decide to recolor my car, prep time would be minimal - scuff and paint.

The attached photo isn't current as the car is 60% together with wiring being completed
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2008, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Asking for advice on using Rustoleum to paint a car makes about as much sense as asking whats the best kind of sawdust to use to quite a noisy transmission so what is going to happen to all the real advice we have had available if this keeps up?
/*
I was gonna put this at the bottom, but figured the DISCLAIMER might be better served at the top: I am not suggesting that any of the following "advise" be followed - I'm just trying to be funny and inject a bit of humor into an opening that oldred left right there
*/

Well, what type of sawdust to use really depends on what you've got available. Being a hobby woodworker I have access to lots of different types of sawdust, so my suggestion would be to use a light-colored hardwood. Reason being if you dumped in something dark like walnut dust or mahogany dust, it'll change the color of the fluid so that it looks like it's burnt already. Whereas using a lighter color like poplar, birch, or maple dust would absorb the fluid color and maybe lighten it up somewhat at the worst.

That also opens up the hardwood vs softwood debate - which would be a better type to use. My feeling is to stick with the hardwoods, main reason is because they are more durable than softwoods and would have a better chance of increasing the necessary friction. Also, close-grained woods would fare better than open-pored woods because the overall quality would remain consistent. Sanding down maple would give you dust of consistent size and quality, while oak would give a less consistent quality from the larger size of the softer growth rings.

Of course, dust size plays a part as well - you can't expect planer shavings to have the same effect as 100-grit sanding dust because the shavings wouldn't be able to fit through all the little passageways. Go too small on the dust size and it could potentially turn into concrete like a blood clot. 80 - 100 grit would be a good size, though I wouldn't go any smaller than 320.

Potentially good species to go with would be:
Hard Maple - Domestic U.S hardwood that is fairly easy to find.
Osage Orange - Might give a slight yellow-ish tint to the fluid, but extremely hard and extremely rot-resistant.
Ironwood - ya wanna go for the best, this might be it. They don't call it ironwood for nothing.

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2008, 12:10 PM
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The question I have is ,after the person doesn't take our advice to use automotive grade paint and uses this crap and it backfires I am sure he will be back to ask the how to get out of the hole he dug question. Do We..A..say i told you so ...B..say I told you so or ..C... say I told you so. I have been here for a little while and it amazes me all people that will not listen to those trying to help them with correct advice on how to do some thing. It gets quite frustrating. I been even been cussed because one guy didn't want to believe what we were all saying to him. I just wonder why people don't listen when the correct ways to do something are being handed to them. I think there is more talent and knowledge here than anywhere else in the world. For this reason I ask the above question. JMO Tim

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2008, 07:09 PM
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I thought of you guys for my art contest entry

Junes Hot Rod Art Contest 1957 Chevy
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2008, 09:40 PM
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This whole cr*& started with the emergence of "rat rods, or "nostalgia" rods whatever the heck you want to call them. I grew up in the 50's and 60's and hot rods did not look like some of the garbage being passed off as "rat rods" today. Another beef of mine is the most over worked term in history and that has to be "old school"...I'm sick of hearing it being applied to everything.

Just my 2
Vince
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Old 06-06-2008, 03:11 PM
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The best way to care for Rustoleum on a car is to wipe it down good with lacquer thinner or paint remover.
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Old 06-06-2008, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
The best way to care for Rustoleum on a car is to wipe it down good with lacquer thinner or paint remover.



Well, there is my chuckle for the day.


Seriously, maybe lightly buff for the water spots with worn out fine scotchbrite? ...or scub the whole thing with Comet pot/pan cleaner..?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2008, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by F&J
Well, there is my chuckle for the day.


Seriously, maybe lightly buff for the water spots with worn out fine scotchbrite? ...or scub the whole thing with Comet pot/pan cleaner..?

If I found a need to use Rustoleum on a car ( which I probably never will ) I would put on several coats, so when somthing happened you could carefully buff the color back out, when it got water spots or fading.
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Old 06-06-2008, 05:07 PM
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Thanks to Brimstone now my transmission is quieter!


Dang near spilled my coffee while reading that!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2008, 08:31 AM
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painting........

The young man,with his first car,just wanted to know how to save the rustoleum paint and pin striping,he didnt need,or want advice on how to strip his car and put a big dollar paint job on it,so,skip the lectures,on what you would do,if you cant help him out,dont give him a bunch of crap. my first car,40 lincoln had a ford v-8 60 in it ,it had miles of surface rust,i was 15 years old,me and my buddies sanded the snot out of it,and painted it with flat black RUSTOLEUM,this was in south florida,i drove that car all thru high school,with only an occassional touch up.and it DIDNT rust.....just my rant..
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2008, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatbob2
The young man,with his first car,just wanted to know how to save the rustoleum paint and pin striping,he didnt need,or want advice on how to strip his car and put a big dollar paint job on it,so,skip the lectures,on what you would do,if you cant help him out,dont give him a bunch of crap. my first car,40 lincoln had a ford v-8 60 in it ,it had miles of surface rust,i was 15 years old,me and my buddies sanded the snot out of it,and painted it with flat black RUSTOLEUM,this was in south florida,i drove that car all thru high school,with only an occassional touch up.and it DIDNT rust.....just my rant..
--------------------------------------------------------------
Great, so why have you not answered his questions?

Thirty ++ some years of painting I purchased the first RUSTOLEUM ever Tuesday and two good brushes so Lee and Gary could paint the bollards on the new loading dock, yellow of course. Could care less how long it lasts as we can touch up every six months about the best I figured it good for or they can touch up first time I unload a truck because I'm a pro hitting those things.

Buffing? Friday about six in evening I went out and checked the cure after setting in sun since two coats were applied on Tuesday and last two days its been well into 90's in Blairsville, no way in hell you would ever buff that crap, it will fall off and chalk before its ready to buff.

So you are the pro with this stuff, instead of knocking the pros who get disgusted with crap like this, do give him the advice he wants.
I also would love to know what paint you can use over this stuff as a pinstripe without it wrinkling to all get out.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2008, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK

Buffing? Friday about six in evening I went out and checked the cure after setting in sun since two coats were applied on Tuesday and last two days its been well into 90's in Blairsville, no way in hell you would ever buff that crap, it will fall off and chalk before its ready to buff.

I have been wondering how these guys could buff that junk and make it look like anything (BTW, not surprisingly there has not exactly been a flood of success stories about doing this) but I guess in this case with the flat it would not make any difference. Advice on how to repair the problem in question? There simply is no way to repair it without removing it and repainting it and that should be obvious! Those "water spots" are where the paint, if you can really call it paint, has failed and even if it was a gloss finish there would be little that could be done for it and that flat finish would certainly be hopeless. I have used this stuff for years as an industrial coating on heavy equipment and the paint don't give a rat's arse whether it's on a car or a loader bucket it will do exactly the same thing! It will do exactly what Barry said it would do, it will chalk and most likely peel off before it gets hard enough to properly buff but that's not really the point anyway. This junk IS NOT suitable for an automotive finish but those idiotic magazine articles have caused the misconception that it can be used successfully and offering advice on how to maybe save a failed Rustoleum job only adds legitimacy to this nonsense, besides it would be hopeless anyway. Those stupid magazine articles have only one purpose, to sell magazines, and they don't care what happens to someone's car but the purpose of this place is just the opposite it has been a place where people with problems with real paint can come and get real advice from the pros. Honestly removing that junk and repainting with a real automotive paint is the only logical answer to a question like that.
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