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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 02:44 PM
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Point Of Earlier Post

The point of my earlier post was to show any viewers, that a synthetic industrial enamel, with a gloss hardener, can and will stay shiny, and not be chalky a year later, nothing more, nothing less.
I have used generic Rustoleum hardware paint with the usual chalking results that follow, expect nothing more nothing less.
I have painted outdoor items with Rustoleum, with hardener added and thinned down a bit, with a sponge brush or roller, the paint does not fade very easily, and stands up much better over time, nothing more nothing less, it is a mailbox or whatever, who cares.
The paint I painted this old coupe is super shiny, and was not your Grandpa's Rustoleum, it will fade to eventually, but it will be a lot slower as she is stored indoors.
The point of my post was not revive a debate, on painting cars/trucks with Rustoleum paint, but painting with enamel paints, which is more challenging than laying down urethane or BC/CC, I have since tried the modern products, that are 10 times easier to shoot and get good results.
I mentioned in the last post, Car Customizer Bo Huff, uses only Lacquer or enamel paints, according to him, with show winning cars, he has used the 2 k Urethane products and produced show winning cars, but He prefers the old school technology of Lacquer and enamel, just his thing, but you cannot argue with his results.

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Last edited by Mopar Coupe; 05-28-2010 at 02:56 PM.
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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 03:53 PM
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GOOD LORD!!! Don't you just LOVE it when these things are revived!? EVERY forum has the EXACT SAME reactions to the SAME subject. I read every post and it brought back the same horible conversations I've been part of MANY times. I think I feel sick......
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 04:03 PM
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That's what happens when a forum is open to anyone that wants to toot their own horn...Whether they know what they are talking about or not.
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armentrout
I agree with Jeff!! The guy has no idea about paint but proud of his car! I sold automotive paint and supplies for 14 years and know lots of Professional Painters.
NONE of them knew a DAMN thing when they started!!!

This thread sounds like that bunch of idiots on the HAMB forum.

They come out like fire ants to see how much they can degrade a person then retreat back to the nest only to wait on the next victim.

I think forums are where people without much knowledge can ask questions or simply post without being publicly flogged!

sad,
================================================== ===

While you were delivering orders I think you missed a few things.
First I have never seen a paint store guy, not want to gag if someone walked in wanting synthetic enamel, so that strikes me real funny that you seem excited about it.

Second, this forum is no different then any other forum out there, yes you can get beat up, yes great mechanics, great body-men and great painters are great because they first have a lot of pride and they do have an attitude.
That is what separates them from the everyday trade.

To make my point before I go further, I read the engine section all the time, I don't post because I'm not a professional and they don't need me wasting space over there but i know enough about engines to know who to read and not read. Just in last week there has been two good battles over there and one thread was just locked, another thread we had a college kid trying to argue with people like TI and Eric and about two dozen other engine pros.
Book work on some things just don't cut it and experience will win everytime.

Now to the want to "get along crowd and piece and love stuff", all forums are the same and you should be thankful there are professionals on here that will rip you a new one because redoing an engine, gets real expensive and redoing a paint job is just as bad.

Perhaps I take this more personal then most as I spend a lot of time on the phone trying to help people correct a screwed job because they got bad advice on some forum or from a paint jobber, most of these people broke the family budget on the first job and it always cost more to redo a job.

Just my two cents worth!
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 04:16 PM
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Now now Boys, hope 1 idea, does not threaten your whole philsophy on body and paint.
Well enlighten us "Horn Blowers", sure hope I never become as rigid as some thinkers are out there.
Even on The Hamb folks don't get so messed up on different ideas, or low budget projects.
Sorry will exit back to the "low places" where an honest Guy, can fit in a little better.
I figured only those that were interested in enamel paint work, would respond, no idea the Paint Gestapos were going to, feel so threatened that they better jump in on this.
BTW, the last 2 posters,Underground and Armentrout what kind of experience do you 2 have with enamel paint work?
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 05:23 PM
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Unbelievable!

If you could buy a turd or something useful for the same "X" amount of dollars, why are there so many idiots buying the turd?
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Unbelievable!

If you could buy a turd or something useful for the same "X" amount of dollars, why are there so many idiots buying the turd?
LOL, now that depends what kinda turd we be talking about, some of the best crops have had a whole lot of turd dumped in the field.
Back to your rhetorical question, why don't you give us your explanation on this one.

Last edited by Mopar Coupe; 05-28-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 06:09 PM
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Pretty simple really.

By the time you buy all that garbage paint, reducers and hardeners, I'm pretty sure you're at about the same cost as some cheap auto paint.

I'm sure if I'm shopping, the "turd" rustoleum will still be on the shelf as I would pick up the useful product.

Last edited by 123pugsy; 05-28-2010 at 06:10 PM. Reason: I keep keep keep repeating my my my self.
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Pretty simple really.

By the time you buy all that garbage paint, reducers and hardeners, I'm pretty sure you're at about the same cost as some cheap auto paint.

I'm sure if I'm shopping, the "turd" rustoleum will still be on the shelf as I would pick up the useful product.
Why not pick up tremclad then, it is made not far from you in the Tranna area.
Actually the paint I used on the coupe, is better quality than Dupont Nason, not Rustoleum, as you keep espousing. But an Industiral enamel manufactured in the Tranna area. It is designed for use on machinery,heavy equipment, bridges, fuel storage tanks etc. A lot of the Carnival rides are painted with this product, good gloss,excellent durablity, very fuel,chemical UV resistant, not friggin Turdclad okay!
BTW, Canada markets/manufactures Turdclad, owned and operated by Rustoleum..
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 07:03 PM
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Turdclad.

I like it.

Next time someone tells me to use Tremclad , I can tell them the real name.
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 08:19 PM
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Enamel paint is the least expensive line we carried. It was Dulux Enamel. We sold lots of it but mostly to the low end shops and welding shops. Gardner Denver manufacturing plant bought it by the 100s of gallons.

It has a purpose. True not for show cars! But not ONCE did I EVER disrespect a ANY person that was excited about getting his first car painted and enamel was all he could afford at that time.

I sold Dupont Acrylic enamel Centari, Lucite acrylic lacquer, Chromabase bc/cc, Amerflint, Imron, Sunbelt paint line, Nason paint line, BASF, and Sikkens my very favorite!!!

Some of the guys would take a gallon of cheap Dulux enamel, put a hardner in it and use a quick dry lacquer thinner in it. Damn it laid out nice and had a great gloss...for about 1-2 years and then it chalked out.

Put what you want on it, if you're happy with it who cares what others think.

I bet if we looked at some of the paint jobs that the so called "professionals" have done we would see a different story.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar Coupe
Now now Boys, hope 1 idea, does not threaten your whole philsophy on body and paint.
Well enlighten us "Horn Blowers", sure hope I never become as rigid as some thinkers are out there.
Even on The Hamb folks don't get so messed up on different ideas, or low budget projects.
Sorry will exit back to the "low places" where an honest Guy, can fit in a little better.
I figured only those that were interested in enamel paint work, would respond, no idea the Paint Gestapos were going to, feel so threatened that they better jump in on this.
BTW, the last 2 posters,Underground and Armentrout what kind of experience do you 2 have with enamel paint work?
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armentrout
Enamel paint is the least expensive line we carried. It was Dulux Enamel. We sold lots of it but mostly to the low end shops and welding shops. Gardner Denver manufacturing plant bought it by the 100s of gallons.

It has a purpose. True not for show cars! But not ONCE did I EVER disrespect a ANY person that was excited about getting his first car painted and enamel was all he could afford at that time.

I sold Dupont Acrylic enamel Centari, Lucite acrylic lacquer, Chromabase bc/cc, Amerflint, Imron, Sunbelt paint line, Nason paint line, BASF, and Sikkens my very favorite!!!

Some of the guys would take a gallon of cheap Dulux enamel, put a hardner in it and use a quick dry lacquer thinner in it. Damn it laid out nice and had a great gloss...for about 1-2 years and then it chalked out.

Put what you want on it, if you're happy with it who cares what others think.

I bet if we looked at some of the paint jobs that the so called "professionals" have done we would see a different story.
Very well put, I have to say I agree with you. I remember the Dulux paint line, many OEM cars were painted with such paint in the 40s 50s, I have heard it was used on repair work lot in those days,not sure the reason.
I would imagine it being enamel, it would polis/buff back up again. I have heard the old Dulux paint was able to be buffed back to shine, after it chalked out. Infact I have done such things in my first years of driving, 50s and 60s cars, way back in my youth. Thanx for the post..........MC
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 08:51 PM
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Some of the old guys were quite the chemist! Some would dump about half a bottle of smoothie fish eye eliminator in the Dulux. It was SLICK! but felt greasy lol. We had one guy that bought nothing but Dulux but wanted a handfull of Imron labels. Guess he was trying to charge the customer for Imron...and NO we didn't give them to him










Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar Coupe
Very well put, I have to say I agree with you. I remember the Dulux paint line, many OEM cars were painted with such paint in the 40s 50s, I have heard it was used on repair work lot in those days,not sure the reason.
I would imagine it being enamel, it would polis/buff back up again. I have heard the old Dulux paint was able to be buffed back to shine, after it chalked out. Infact I have done such things in my first years of driving, 50s and 60s cars, way back in my youth. Thanx for the post..........MC
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 09:34 PM
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rustoleum

i used a rustoleum topcoat on my truck it was the 9800 series yellow with hardener.....also applied 9410 clear over it it is still shiny....hasn't been sanded or buffed......i live in central fla. and truck is not garage kept or washed regularly.......i mud bog it on occasion ...and that was painted over 5 years ago.....was rustoleum my first choice for paint.....no.....i had some left over from an industrial job.....so i used it....when i go custom mods with it i will choose a different paint for top coat.....would i use rustoleum single component for topcoat even if free ,no......would i sand and topcoat over what i have....yes it is a very strong base......just my .02......the black fla mud would and has eaten many of my friends auto paint jobs for lunch...mine still looks almost as good as the day i sprayed it.....here is one of my finished jobs at work { same paint}
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 10:10 PM
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On this coupe in pics, I painted, I had a few gallons of Tremclad rusty metal primer. I stripped the coupe, used the phos acid, where applicable, then used Tremclad grey primer, cut with 40 % medium speed acrylic enamel reducer, and shot 3 coats onto the body.
I then did all the filler work, little more than my liking, but another story, I then used a 2 k urethane high buld primer/surfacer, blocked this, repeated the process, then shot on the Industrial enamel with hardener.
The base primer is quite tough, the urethane went over it and bonded all with no ill effects, no issues with compatibility.
I am sure I could go over with clear, but at this point, do not find it necessary.
I would use a better quality topcoat, if and when I redo the paint........MC
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