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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
A high speed air bleed of between .031 and .036 is fine.
get a 1/32" drill bit and a 1/16th " drill bit .. It is just that easy.

If you want to know the numbered drill bit equivelent of a given drill bit diameter in incheds or MM's
good search drill bit size chart and download the PDF.

The most you will need is a few numbered drill bits like a #72 (.025")

or a #51 (.067") you do not need all the air bleed sizes or all the numbered drill bit sizes.
final hone by hand as required.

You cannot tune high speed air bleeds by feel, smell or plug appearance or any other voodoo.
requires having the correct main jets first. requires dyno or extensive accurate track testing using a WB AFR meter
and accurate main jetting and timing, first. You can burn up a motor by getting it wrong.
on my car the .036" high speed air bleeds work just fine. .031" to .036" will be fine.
when the correct jets are used too (70-74 pri 80-84sec)
and the air cleaner installed (ya it matters)

You can do this whole job with what you got and a 1/16" and 1/32" drill bit and a simple NB heated afr meter/gauge/Voltmeter
The blanks were given to me....so no cost. Jets are still 70/80 and will leave them be for now
Will drill 2 blanks to 0.062 and replace the 75's with them and go from there.

Ignition is stock HEI, but directly from GM...and has less then 2000k on it.
So I'm not sure what ignition issue I would have that is causing a rich condition?
I may still have an old msd 6A kicking around....if so is it worth installing on such a mild motor?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 07:55 PM
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Slight wake up call here, remember when I had said it idled to high with the rear transfer slots exposed? Well with the floats set right that isn't the case, I can idle it down to a stall using the idle screw. So currently I have the rear slots closed but now I can actually open them up and get front and rear squared.
Will improper transfer slot exposure effect idle rich condition?
Will improper transfer slots effect things anywhere else? Just wanted to know if this could be my cause of my rich everywhere condition.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
I just got thru with another guy on a different forum that has been haveing way too much trouble getting his holley dialed in. Turns out the PCV was staying open at idle, instead of closed.

I must have posted 3 or 4 time for him to check the PCV valve...for the last 3 months.
I guess he finally got around to it....Pretty Billet PCV valve...Wrong vacuum level.

Just shows you its always the little basic stuff.
Smrtass lol....yes, I know how to set a Holley float level.....I have no idea how it wasnt right.....I have set many, and this is the first one I screwed up....regardless....clearly I did!
No, Carb isn't flooding at all, it starts, it shuts off, it doesn't diesel or do anything unusual. Throttle response is now good across the board with no more stumbles or bogs.
Other then once the floats were set right I then had a lower idle.
This will allow me to open the secomdaries up and get front to back even.
Yes, the ignition is new, but its not "brand new" it was on the car last season with no issues. This is only become an issue since I switched over to the Holley.
I'm going to rest the transfer slots tommorow and see what changes. I didn't realize that having the rear closed and front open too far could cause any drivabilty concerns other then at idle.
The baseplate and metering blocks are over 20years old....not much drive time on anything but still old.....so maybe there's more to it then anything I'm doing or not doing.
Will try in the am and see if it helps.
Thanks
Dave
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:20 PM
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OK, got a new vacuum guage, reset transfer slots front and rear, started over with mixture screws,
Vacuum is 18 in park, 15 in gear, mixture screws are very sensitive to tiny changes, they are both a little over 1.5 turns out.
Idle seems stable and has snappy response. Still very smelly exhaust, no smoke at idle now.
Going to go drive it now and see what i have.
Fine, I concede, I will pick up tune up parts this week lol....see if it helps.

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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2013, 05:21 PM
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I give up.....runs perfect, it could pass for fuel injection at this point, its snappy everywhere, no bogs or stumbles and pulls clean from every rpm......
Smokes and smells....behind me, cruising speed, its clean....but idling in the lane way, smokes, accelerating, smokes....def dark, def fuel....
I give....
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2013, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Whats the tune up on the carb now?

Smoke in exhaust at idle...are you sure there is not something blocking one of the idle wells in the metering block
Raw un emulsified un mixed fuel at idle or something.

Ignition issue?.... very odd...
70/80
75/36/36/76
36/36/36/36
Transfer slots squared
Now sitting on my shelf....
Got pssd off and threw on my 650DP and will see how that works in the morning on my way to work.
70/76
Jet extensions
idle is much snappier, mixture screws 1.5 turns out.
Haven't driven it till the morn.
If it isn't any better then I will have to go deeper I guess.
Thanks for the help with it and I will report back tommorow.
Dave
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2013, 07:03 PM
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Stpd Carb, stupid tuner.....(me)
650 works fine....no smoke, pulls hard....
For now the 750 sits.....will worry about another time.
Thanks again F-Bird....appreciate the help.
Dave
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