Huge Ford Van Uniside - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 10:21 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,034
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 562
Thanked 223 Times in 202 Posts
Huge Ford Van Uniside

first thought was where will I section it? Simple enough.





I try to have my donor panel 1/4" longer before I make my final scribe. In this area it will be about 1/2" just so I don't have to deal with that curve. I like the overlapped panel no longer than 1/4" so when it's cut out and laying flat your cut will be more accurate cause your scribe was more accurate. This sets you up with a nice clean open butt weld gap, which is not much. Good thing is there is three totally different places you can skip around to when you want your metal to cool so you will be constantly welding.


trusty porto power



could have worked this better but I want to ask what type of job this is before getting crazy on it. This was just to quickly get it back to where it needs to be.



11 hours on it and it's ready to weld on tomorrow morning. 2nd to last mock up for cut and scribe. Just can't get the rear door to line up due to the shape and another panel lapped on top. It needs to be cut out to gauge the gap so there's a little risk there. So with that in mind I'm ready to make a sleeve for the rear pillar if need be cause that's the gap it would effect to line up the quarter to the rear door... I think we'll be alright.


Before any welding I'll try to unbunch it a hair more. As you can see this thing was creamed. If I get this back to the mark the gap down low will be better. Keep in mind this is customer pay, otherwise this would have gotten pulled on the rack. Just using the tram gauge and plain ol common sense here.




I'll post more pics later.

    Advertisement

Last edited by tech69; 06-19-2013 at 10:36 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 10:58 PM
gearheadslife's Avatar
MentalMuffinMan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,198
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 107
Thanked 278 Times in 260 Posts
why not the whole side, up to roof gutter
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 11:14 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,034
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 562
Thanked 223 Times in 202 Posts
oh, you don't want to go up there unless you have to. Too many panels sandwiched together and the skin is probably in the middle. Customers nor insurance companies will pay to do that for that particular hit so doing that will never happen on a production job. These cut lines I chose may not be factory recommended cut lines but I guarantee you they have a recommended cut line somewhere on that pillar, most likely in an area where you have space behind the cut line. Everybody does these vans this way. I will also be using panel adhesive on the areas around the glass opening. Plug welded everywhere else and open butt welded on the pillars. This one's a cinch. the only annoying part is the foam and panel adhesive on the panel as you put it on the car for the last time, and I have to find an access hole for a corner in the van that has a lot of foam, or at least I suspect there is a hole there(will look tomorrow).

Last edited by tech69; 06-19-2013 at 11:31 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 08:41 AM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,034
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 562
Thanked 223 Times in 202 Posts
Hey Martin, you out there? If you happen to stumble upon this post and have some free time at work was wondering if you could check all data for a cut line spec on the van. I'm curious. Probably should have asked beforehand but this is a full on air chisel type of job and the side came in unexpectedly.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 08:52 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,111
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,289
Thanked 1,137 Times in 1,007 Posts
I'll take a look but it is probably in the center of the post.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 10:29 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,111
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,289
Thanked 1,137 Times in 1,007 Posts
There was nothing in aldata and I don't want to request something I don't really need and take their time. But I would think commonly (like 99.9%) the cut is about the center of the post. But on the same respect, there are more and more manufacturers who are putting in their guidelines NO used parts. ESPECIALLY "structural" which this would likely be regarded.

I know one thing, that project is one of the harder ones, making something from scratch is often MUCH easier than what you are doing. I am not implying that making a new quarter would be easier. But replacing a quarter, any quarter with a used one is pushing the tough work meter very high. And a full sized van? Yeow that is a mutha of a job, in my world you should get TWICE the labor than they give for a new OEM quarter. I mean think about it, you have to remove the damaged quarter without damaging the structure, then you have to remove the used quarter from the structure without damaging the quarter! It is a HUGE job and without twice the labor we are getting ripped off, but seldom do we get what we need on those used quarter jobs, they are a loser in my book.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 12:00 PM
gearheadslife's Avatar
MentalMuffinMan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,198
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 107
Thanked 278 Times in 260 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
oh, you don't want to go up there unless you have to. Too many panels sandwiched together and the skin is probably in the middle. Customers nor insurance companies will pay to do that for that particular hit so doing that will never happen on a production job. These cut lines I chose may not be factory recommended cut lines but I guarantee you they have a recommended cut line somewhere on that pillar, most likely in an area where you have space behind the cut line. Everybody does these vans this way. I will also be using panel adhesive on the areas around the glass opening. Plug welded everywhere else and open butt welded on the pillars. This one's a cinch. the only annoying part is the foam and panel adhesive on the panel as you put it on the car for the last time, and I have to find an access hole for a corner in the van that has a lot of foam, or at least I suspect there is a hole there(will look tomorrow).
understood, but when dad did them at the shop it was always to the roof.. never asked why..lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 01:28 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,034
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 562
Thanked 223 Times in 202 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
There was nothing in aldata and I don't want to request something I don't really need and take their time. But I would think commonly (like 99.9%) the cut is about the center of the post. But on the same respect, there are more and more manufacturers who are putting in their guidelines NO used parts. ESPECIALLY "structural" which this would likely be regarded.

I know one thing, that project is one of the harder ones, making something from scratch is often MUCH easier than what you are doing. I am not implying that making a new quarter would be easier. But replacing a quarter, any quarter with a used one is pushing the tough work meter very high. And a full sized van? Yeow that is a mutha of a job, in my world you should get TWICE the labor than they give for a new OEM quarter. I mean think about it, you have to remove the damaged quarter without damaging the structure, then you have to remove the used quarter from the structure without damaging the quarter! It is a HUGE job and without twice the labor we are getting ripped off, but seldom do we get what we need on those used quarter jobs, they are a loser in my book.

Brian
management's decision. 8 hours just to cut the donor out. If this were an insurance job they'd give no more than 4 hours. It doesn't make sense. As I was cutting out the side I looked over at the guy trying to get the donor skin off and mentioned his task was much harder than mine. There's foam around the filler neck and adhesive around the wheel lip so alot of extra work and cutting just to get better access to those areas. the tough part is plug welding on drilled out holes. The welds may not be clean as I wanted. I'd say if we just bought a new one and a resistance spot welder we'd me making a wise decision. If a shop has a plan to "eventually" get one, this would have been the time to fork out some cash so at least you know right away you got some of that money back.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2013, 10:19 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,034
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 562
Thanked 223 Times in 202 Posts
spent some time once again loosening the rear body mounts and brought out the porto power. It worked great! Then I started the welding on the uniside.



on this area,the donor skin was cut exactly 1/4" over. The scribe was more accurate on this and left a better gap than the other two.











Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'66 Ford Falcon Van could use help Mr.Fixxit Engine 5 04-29-2013 09:57 PM
'85 Ford Van: AmericanPackMule Electrical 4 02-12-2008 03:54 PM
'85 Ford Van: AmericanPackMule Engine 1 02-11-2008 06:38 PM
48 Ford Panel Van Mr Rob Body - Exterior 1 04-20-2006 06:09 PM
ford convertible van thumper57 Introduce Yourself 2 07-24-2005 05:11 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.