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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2012, 10:58 AM
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by hotter reducer do mean a slower reducer? For best flow and finish a slower reducer is always what i would recommend.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2012, 10:59 AM
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looks like a cloud or a bad case of blushing. Yes, this has all to do with moisture.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by angel85lx View Post
Good advice widetrack. I wired it for 110 but after it fills to a certain point the motor will come to a stop. As the motor is not getting enough amp to fill the tank. I was reading other threads and.some recommended using a hotter reducer.
What gauge wire did you use when you wired it? If you used 12-2, then you can easily put in a double-pole 20 amp breaker and put in a 220 receptacle. That's assuming your 60 gallon compressor has less than a 20 amp draw, which mine does. Or you can just run another circuit altogether. There are a few additional details but the point is it's not tremendously difficult, even to do it and still be in code.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
by hotter reducer do mean a slower reducer? For best flow and finish a slower reducer is always what i would recommend.
I mean fast that way you won't let the water set up. Or so what I understand.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:49 PM
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What gauge wire did you use when you wired it? If you used 12-2, then you can easily put in a double-pole 20 amp breaker and put in a 220 receptacle. That's assuming your 60 gallon compressor has less than a 20 amp draw, which mine does. Or you can just run another circuit altogether. There are a few additional details but the point is it's not tremendously difficult, even to do it and still be in code.
The thing is my breaker is on the front of the house and my garage is on the back. A good 200 feet away.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by angel85lx View Post
I mean fast that way you won't let the water set up. Or so what I understand.
Never speed up a paint product to try and eliminate a water problem, solve the moisture issue, which a larger reserve tank should potentially accomplish. Have you checked your 25 gallon compressor for CFM out put?

Now that being said, you mentioned you where spraying parts, smaller pieces. A faster reducer could be used in this case because with smaller pieces you won't have the problem of the product setting up before you get your second coat on.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:13 PM
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Here is my compressor.




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Old 10-24-2012, 06:43 AM
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OK, The compressor that you have is great for running a small air tool, filling tires or blowing parts dry after you clean them. I see that they claim 5 horse power but, like I mentioned earlier some manufacturers embellish this performance data. It is in all probability to assume that other performance aspects of this piece of equipment may also not be accurate. 5 horse power only means it has the power to maintain a certain performance, the crucial criteria is the CFM out put. 8.2 CFM at 40 PSI and 5.6 CFM at 90 PSI is not enough for a paint gun. Most paint guns require twice that amount. This means that your compressor is working beyond it's capability when painting larger projects causing it to create excessive heat and moisture.

Try my earlier suggestion of linking this compressor to your other compressor's larger tank. The smaller compressor will fill both tanks giving you a total of 85 gallons of compressed air. Depending on how many "small parts" you need to paint, you should be OK. If your compressor still is working to hard, shut it off in between coats, let it cool down, start, shut off, start until you reach your maximum PSI in the bigger tank (like 100 PSI as an example). Always remember to drain your holding tanks after each use.

For future large jobs you will need to wire the big compressor to avoid this problem.

Hope this helps.
Thanks
Ray
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2012, 07:54 AM
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The last time I remember having a humidity problem was shooting lacquer. And it was because it flashed so fast, it doesn't seem to make sense but at least with it going to a SLOWER thinner eliminated it.

Brian
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:03 AM
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Your right Brian, the faster solvent will actually dry or cure the paint faster trapping the moisture in the paint. When you slow the solvent down some of the moisture will have time to evaporate as the paint cures or drys (whatever terminology you want).

Ray
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
OK, The compressor that you have is great for running a small air tool, filling tires or blowing parts dry after you clean them. I see that they claim 5 horse power but, like I mentioned earlier some manufacturers embellish this performance data. It is in all probability to assume that other performance aspects of this piece of equipment may also not be accurate. 5 horse power only means it has the power to maintain a certain performance, the crucial criteria is the CFM out put. 8.2 CFM at 40 PSI and 5.6 CFM at 90 PSI is not enough for a paint gun. Most paint guns require twice that amount. This means that your compressor is working beyond it's capability when painting larger projects causing it to create excessive heat and moisture.

Try my earlier suggestion of linking this compressor to your other compressor's larger tank. The smaller compressor will fill both tanks giving you a total of 85 gallons of compressed air. Depending on how many "small parts" you need to paint, you should be OK. If your compressor still is working to hard, shut it off in between coats, let it cool down, start, shut off, start until you reach your maximum PSI in the bigger tank (like 100 PSI as an example). Always remember to drain your holding tanks after each use.

For future large jobs you will need to wire the big compressor to avoid this problem.

Hope this helps.
Thanks
Ray
You cannot make 5 hp from 110 volts. If you do the math, even with assuming a 100% efficient motor, it's just about impossible. So there's no ifs, ands, or buts about that one.

I don't see what he gains from having that small compressor fill his big tank as well. That small compressor motor now has to fill four times its capacity. The air will be really hot and he'll have a problem with water vapor in the lines. As soon as his pressure drops in the system, the air compressor will kick right back on again, even though he has 85 gallons of stored air instead of 25. Those small compressors usually max out at 120 psi. It doesn't take very much to drop the pressure in the system, especially if your regulator is set at 90 PSI. I once tried patching my little 20 gallon compressor into a large tank and I think it literally bought me about another 30 seconds of time before the compressor kicked on, only the compressor then ran forever.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:12 AM
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You are right. as I said in my post, this "may" eliminate the problem for "small" pieces and that if he was to paint a large area he would need to hook up his larger compressor properlyy. I also mentioned that the smaller compressor would need to be shut off when filling the 60 gallon tank when it got hot and given a chance to cool off before restarting to continue filling the 60 gallon tank or, like you mentioned he would continue to have a moisture problem. This would give him just a little extra spray time for what he said he needed to paint, his quote, "I only have a few small pieces left to paint". This suggestion was not a permanent fix, only a temporary band-aide.

Hope we are on the same Page...Ray
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