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Old 10-07-2008, 05:23 PM
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a hundred dents--barn find

I need some advice. I am about to fill in a myrid of dents all fairly small, 1"-4"and shallow, up to a 1/4" deep, problem is there are close to a hundred of them and they are spread all over the roof of this old barn stored wagon. Front to back...
Basically I think I'm better off just filling the whole roof with filler( Rage) and sanding it all down....

Question is how do you mix that much filler? Should I mix and apply until the whole roof is covered then level sand with large board?
Or fill each dent and try to blend them all to an even surface?
Ideas? Anyone done this before, and how did you do it?
Thanks,
Barry

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Old 10-07-2008, 05:50 PM
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Any chance of dollying them out first?
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:55 PM
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dents......

HI,sounds like the car was caught in a hailstorm...sand the entire surface that you will be working on,to bare metal,mask off car,spray 2 or 3 coats of epoxy primer (2 K) let dry good, i would make a long squeege out of 1/8 in doorskin,about 3 inches high,,by the 36 inch width. sand both of the edges smooth. mix up some RAGE,but,before you add the catylst,add a LITTLE polyester resin (fiberglass) NOT MUCH,maybe 3 table spoons to 1/2 quart.,mix very good,THEN add catylst,work from 1 side to center,clean off squeege,then mix more,work from other side to center,after the whole top is RAGED,buy a cheap can of black spray paint,spray a dust coat,that will show you the low spots as you sand. use a long board to sand,using 80 grit, rage again if necessary .after dents are filled,and smooth, ,then spray 2 or 3 coats of hi-build epoxy primer.long board that with 180 or 220 grit. HAVE FUN..
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Old 10-07-2008, 06:01 PM
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I like the idea of a squeege... why not just use one. Also why the fiberglass resin? mixing that much Rage at a time might be tricky also but somes like a possibility..Thanks.. others?
BTW inside of roof has headliner in it, plus inner roof has some sort of old time sound deadener also.
Barry
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:04 PM
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find a pdr guy that wants to make a few extra bucks and have him work those dents out close, then strip the panels, epoxy prime and give it two or three coats of polyester primer. Then block it to perfection.
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:12 PM
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Heck even try a ding king($20) and they work supprisingly well.

Shane
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatbob2
...i would make a long squeege out of 1/8 in doorskin,about 3 inches high,,by the 36 inch width.
What I use (and I stole this idea from Arrowhead) is a four foot aluminum "yardstick". They are flexible but maintain a good, clean edge that is very straight. About $6 at the local Menards or Home Depot. I also use it for sanding very large expanses...just apply two different grits of stick-on sand paper (comes by the roll), one on each side of the yardstick. In the past I have also used a very wide (2 foot) steel drywall applicator. They aren't quite as flexible as the yardstick idea, but they have a very sharp, crisp edge.
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Old 10-09-2008, 01:06 AM
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i would dolly what you can if the paint is still on and you can see the dents well take the torch and circle down in to the center of the dent, cool with wet cloth then cross its out with the body file. strip everything and prime and block. if you have not done much shrinking i like the long sling tool idea too.
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:08 AM
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It might not seem to be the quickest way at the time but you would save yourself money, filler and time in the long run. Get a DA with 180. Don't get into a rush and try to do it faster with courser grit, it will just leave deeper metal scratches that will be harder to fill. Start at one corner and start stripping the paint away. The trick here is to keep the sander totally flat. When the DA goes over the dent you will see the low and high area of the dent. This now gives you a idea of how big the dent really is and how much filler is required. With a pencil or a piece of tape mark you dents. DO NOT USE A MARKER, THE FILLER WILL NOT HOLD ON IT. TRUST ME.
Once you have your dents all visable apply your filler over them. For small dings have it over lap to good flat metal by about 2 inches or so and larger dents about 6 to 8. Block sand the filler with 180 until it's just barely high, then switch over to your DA with 220 and finish leveling it with surrounding metal not paint. I had one of my new helpers ask me why I made him goto baremetal to apply the filler. I simply asked him is the dent in the metal or the paint. Feather edge any paint you didn't strip with 220 then 320 and then prime.

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Longer the sanding board the flater the surface will be.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
find a pdr guy that wants to make a few extra bucks and have him work those dents out close, then strip the panels, epoxy prime and give it two or three coats of polyester primer. Then block it to perfection.
I will agree with you this is the best way to go only I used urethane 2k primer
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