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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2010, 06:13 AM
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Yes, I'll use them for mild performance if they're in good shape but, I'd go with the RHSs before I'd spend the $$ for upgrades. The ProComps aren't the complete turds they used to be. They have corrected most problems from what I've read lately. Now the flames will start.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2010, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbolover
I know I'll get flamed for this but it appears getting a bare set of ProComp heads may not be a bad option either.
Personally (besides the chinese connection) a set of PC heads, bare like you said, assembled after inspecting and whatever work that was needed or wanted, wouldn't be a bad choice at all.

According to a member here who is familiar w/them, assembling them yourself w/good quality parts is the key.

IIRC, the two(?) tools needed to modify the Vortec guide boss comes to about $100. I wonder if there's anyone who would consider "renting" their tools? That way they'd get something back on their outlay, and the cost would be reduced to the "rentee".

Or, three or four guys just go in together to buy them...
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Old 08-12-2010, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Personally (besides the chinese connection) a set of PC heads, bare like you said, assembled after inspecting and whatever work that was needed or wanted, wouldn't be a bad choice at all.

According to a member here who is familiar w/them, assembling them yourself w/good quality parts is the key.

IIRC, the two(?) tools needed to modify the Vortec guide boss comes to about $100. I wonder if there's anyone who would consider "renting" their tools? That way they'd get something back on their outlay, and the cost would be reduced to the "rentee".

Or, three or four guys just go in together to buy them...
I just went out and bought the guide cutter- $50 and it more than paid for it self. Its helpful to have a seat cutter too, but not absolutely needed.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2010, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom10
I am not 100% sure but if you can actually look at the front of the head casting I think all 062's had 3 trinagle humps cast into them that look like saw teeth.
062- 3 little "Saw-Teeth"
906- One big bump

906's are just as good as 062's
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2010, 02:29 PM
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062 on left, 906 on right.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2010, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastOrange
062- 3 little "Saw-Teeth"
906- One big bump

906's are just as good as 062's
I consistantly hear from 2 different camps regarding this debate.

One states that the 906 heads are just as good as the 062's while

The other states that the 906 heads recieved different exhaust valve seats which impedes the flow of the heads in the low-mid range lift areas.

Everybody agrees that the heads themselves are the same. They simply disagree on how well they flow citing the difference in the flow rate is due to the exhaust valve seat.

Roach
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach4047
I consistantly hear from 2 different camps regarding this debate.

One states that the 906 heads are just as good as the 062's while

The other states that the 906 heads recieved different exhaust valve seats which impedes the flow of the heads in the low-mid range lift areas.

Everybody agrees that the heads themselves are the same. They simply disagree on how well they flow citing the difference in the flow rate is due to the exhaust valve seat.

Roach
Here's a third side- my side: The 906 are a BETTER head. If you don't want to get a valve job then just take a 60grit cartridge roll and clean up the little casting left under the seat insert, if you do want to get a valve job (which you should) then the casting lip won't be left anyway if they do a thorough job. In the end the 906 is more durable.

VERY few people take a set of Vortec off one engine and put them on another, usually there is a valve job, some port clean up, slight milling, and a spring swap before they get bolted back on.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2010, 02:13 PM
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I have the 906 on a 355 I built and I am very staisfied with the performance.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:26 PM
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This has been a very informative thread. Thanks for all the input from everybody. All though it's true that I'm on a somewhat limited budget it seems that a set of RHS torker heads are the better value to me so long as I can keep the cost difference to less than $300.00 which seems like it's a fairly simple thing to do.

Roach
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach4047
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks for all the input from everybody. All though it's true that I'm on a somewhat limited budget it seems that a set of RHS torker heads are the better value to me so long as I can keep the cost difference to less than $300.00 which seems like it's a fairly simple thing to do.

Roach


Now a days its often cheaper to start with new ehads than trying to fix up old ones.
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbolover


Now a days its often cheaper to start with new ehads than trying to fix up old ones.
I'm like most other people when it comes to making purchases. I simply want the best value for each dollar spent. I've learned lessons the hard way so far as trying to skimp on certain things. Lost my butt a time or 2.

Roach
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2010, 06:26 AM
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I built a 355 with one 062 and one 906. The flow differences are VERY minimal on a mild engine and you'll never know the difference.

And as far as cracking... I call BS. I've had probably 150 pairs of Vortec heads through my hands and exactly ONE head was cracked, and that one came from an engine that broke a timing chain.

Its true that the Vortecs have a relatively thin deck, but that does NOT mean they are crack prone. The design of the casting has more to do with its deck strength than the thickness of the deck. I've built blown 383 550hp engines for offshore marine use with Vortecs. If the max-effort punishment of WOT and 550 hp for hours at a time doesn't crack them, I'm pretty sure they'll be OK in your street car

I know that the fellas who mentioned cracking are very respected guys, but sometimes the internet spreads rumors and all of a sudden everyone has seen a thousand cracked Vortecs.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2010, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
I built a 355 with one 062 and one 906. The flow differences are VERY minimal on a mild engine and you'll never know the difference.

And as far as cracking... I call BS. I've had probably 150 pairs of Vortec heads through my hands and exactly ONE head was cracked, and that one came from an engine that broke a timing chain.

Its true that the Vortecs have a relatively thin deck, but that does NOT mean they are crack prone. The design of the casting has more to do with its deck strength than the thickness of the deck. I've built blown 383 550hp engines for offshore marine use with Vortecs. If the max-effort punishment of WOT and 550 hp for hours at a time doesn't crack them, I'm pretty sure they'll be OK in your street car

I know that the fellas who mentioned cracking are very respected guys, but sometimes the internet spreads rumors and all of a sudden everyone has seen a thousand cracked Vortecs.
I've only owned one set of cracked Vortecs but I have put my hands on about a dozen sets of cracked ones. They do crack, usually on the center head bolt holes or between the valves. I don't know what the frequency is though.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2010, 09:06 AM
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I believe a LOT has to do w/where and how the heads were obtained.

An engine in running condition obviously stands a far better chance of having no cracks than core engines that were traded in for a reman, for example.

Then of the core engines, an engine w/a bad rod bearing stands a far better chance of having crack-free heads than an engine that had blown head gaskets from overheating.

But if you are buying bulk head cores, you already know they came from engines w/a "past history". The rate of rejection is going to be higher than the norm.

And not all core suppliers are equal, nor are they immune to unscrupulous business practices- just like any business. I would say if I were receiving what I deemed to be a too high rate of rejection from my supplier, I would be talking to them and/or researching my options.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2010, 07:19 PM
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Good points... I've just not seen proof that they are crack prone. People seem to automatically equate thin decks with cracks and its just not proof.

Cum Hoc, Non Ergo Propter Hoc
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