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Old 05-20-2009, 07:59 PM
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Husky Compressor motor acts wierd?

I have this husky compressor that worked fine til the other day... it's about 6 years old with about 4 hours run time on it... what it does is keep popping the breaker in the house when it kicks on for half a second... so i took off the belt to see if it was frozen or something but the motor turns like butta... and the compressor pump is still like new, turns nice... so now i turn on the motor without the belt on and it runs for 15 seconds then pops the breaker in the house... it never did this before and it is the same setup since i bought the unit... i will say this... i tried using it this winter about 4 times to be exact but the coldness of the garage would not let it start, it kept popping the breaker... so when it finally warmed up outside i brang it out to the driveway and let the sun hit it for an hour or so, it started up and ran fine the first few times but now it is doing what i said above... any help would be very much appreciated....

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Old 05-20-2009, 09:00 PM
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First, unplug it.

Open the switch box that contains the pressure switch and wiring.

Check all the connections to be sure they're all tight and there are no frayed and/or broken wires.

Still unplugged.
Take a look at the contacts to be sure that they're clean and there's nothing caught between them or the mechanism.

Check the cord and especially the plug for loose or frayed wiring and that the connections there are also tight.

Still unplugged.
Measure the resistance of all three wires, from the plug to where they connect at the switch box on the compressor- you're looking for the resistance to be the same between the wires. If one is higher, it may be damaged.

You're not using an extension cord that's undersized, are you?

If all checks out good, if the motor has a capacitor you can switch it out for a new one- they only cost a few bucks.

You can also try a different circuit (different wall plug, NOT on the same circuit as the one you are now using) in case the breaker has begun to take a crap on you.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:55 PM
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Some old breakers get weak and pop under load once they have been popped a few times. I would check the load on the wire at the breaker box to see what the load actually is, I'll bet a new breaker will fix it right up. You can always swap the wiring to another breaker to test it if there is another in the box.

Another thing to check is the resistance in the wiring, a loose wire nut can cause arcing you can't see and will burn the connection to the point where continuity is poor. Aluminum conductors are particularly notorious for this hence why they now specify spring loaded wire nuts for installation.

If your not experienced with electrical call an electrician, not something to fool without knowing what your doing.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:36 AM
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My Guess because of this comment "so now i turn on the motor without the belt on and it runs for 15 seconds then pops the breaker in the house":

It has a start/run cap. There is a centrifugal switch inside the motor that disconnects the cap after it starts. It is tripping the CB because that switch is not opening.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:55 PM
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So how do i get to that centrifugal clutch... is it a big job or a simple one...

thanks everybody so far...
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:09 PM
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Pop!

I agree about the breakers getting weak. I learned this with mine. My compressor RUNS on maybe 15 amps.....which is what a lot of house circuits are wired for....maybe 20. It takes 25+amps to start my compressor under a load like when it is parcially up to max pressure. I would plug mine in when it was empty and it would run fine then when the pressure switch kicked in it would kinda stall and struggle trying to start under a load and then pop the breaker. I heated up that breaker so many times it got weaker and weaker.
I also had to replace that capacitor thingy that helps it start one time.
I also bought a really fat extension cord that I use just for the compressor.
Some of that other stuff may be true as well.
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddioinmaine
So how do i get to that centrifugal clutch... is it a big job or a simple one...

thanks everybody so far...
The switch is in the bell end of the motor. Unless you have a part available and the tools, just let a motor shop test it to confirm then they can replace it. If it was a bad CB, it would probably not trip with an unloaded motor. Since it tripped a few times you should replace it anyway but I would suspect that last as being a cause for your particular problem.

A cheap clamp on ammeter would tell you right away if the CB was the problem here. If it's a 120 volt circuit, you could plug another load into the recept and see if the CB tripped.
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:26 PM
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Check that the wires are tight in the CB as mine did this. one of the wires where loose and it would trip just like yours.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:29 PM
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I took the 2 caps from the compressor to a motor shop to get tested and 1 was bad, the start up cap, so i bought a new one and installed it.... all is well, it was only the start up cap... he said from trying to start the compressor when it was cold, the oil is too thick and it put a strain at startup which in turn finally made the cap fail.... so thanks everyone for your help and good hotrodding!!!!

Joe
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:55 AM
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It should start with no problem even with cold oil and a more likely problem is the unloader valve is not working, this is a common malfunction that often leads to the very problem you experienced. Simple enough to check, do you hear a momentary "hiss" from escaping air from the pressure switch when the compressor reaches pressure and shuts off? If you do hear that "hiss" for a couple of seconds after shut-down then all is well but if not then the head pressure is not being relieved and the pump has to restart under pressure which WILL damage it!
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:40 AM
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i don't hear the hiss.... now what?

Thank you
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Old 09-19-2009, 12:13 PM
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Ok, if you didn't hear that short (a couple of seconds) hiss from the pressure switch then that is probably what burned out your capacitor.


TURN THE POWER OFF before doing anything and then loosen, but do not remove, the small copper or plastic line that runs from the pressure switch to the compressor pump or to the supply line from the pump to the tank. With the compressor at full pressure (and the power shut off!) check to see if there is any pressure on this small line from the pressure switch, if there is it will almost instantly bleed off as soon as you loosen the line. If it does this then the switch itself is bad but if there is no pressure at all the line may be kinked or plugged. Basically how this system works is when the compressor shut down and the switch opens the contacts it at the same time pushes open the unloader valve that is built into it. When this valve opens it will bleed off the pressure that is in the supply line to the tank and in the pump itself, a one way back-flow valve located in the tank where the supply line from the pump connects will keep pressure from flowing back into the supply line and pump. This system is necessary to prevent the motor from trying to start under pressure which would require more torque than it is designed for.



I suggested only loosening that line for safety reasons so if it come completely off it will not be a problem but because of the fact you will be working with a pressurized line and small parts you REALLY should wear safety glasses!
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:29 AM
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everything is good..... i thank you
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
It should start with no problem even with cold oil and a more likely problem is the unloader valve is not working, this is a common malfunction that often leads to the very problem you experienced. Simple enough to check, do you hear a momentary "hiss" from escaping air from the pressure switch when the compressor reaches pressure and shuts off? If you do hear that "hiss" for a couple of seconds after shut-down then all is well but if not then the head pressure is not being relieved and the pump has to restart under pressure which WILL damage it!
My motor was trying to start all the time with that head pressure..
I just fixed mine.. The check valve went out in the tank..The little hiss would not stop, So I Bent the little tab that hits the little hiss valve,, Wrong thing to do..I put in the new check valve in the tank,, Bent the tab back,, Now it works fine....
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
My motor was trying to start all the time with that head pressure..
I just fixed mine.. The check valve went out in the tank..The little hiss would not stop, So I Bent the little tab that hits the little hiss valve,, Wrong thing to do..I put in the new check valve in the tank,, Bent the tab back,, Now it works fine....

I have seen that unloader valve defeated in one manner or another just about every time a back-flow valve failed! In fact almost every time I have seen a back-flow valve failure it was when I would get a call for a compressor that would not start, usually it would be tripping the breaker. In almost every one of these cases the unloader had been either modified or simply plugged off to stop the "leak"!
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