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Old 06-17-2004, 09:50 PM
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hvlp paint turbine

hi
i have a34 coupe glass this is my first paint job a friend lent me a new hvlp turbin the unit is self contained blows out warm air i mixed 4parts ppg acrylic urethane paint 2parts dt895 reducer 1part dcx8 hardener i did the grill shell came out good for first time the hood came out with some blisters and orange peel i primed with lacquer primer my friend said to shoot 2 or 3 light coats which i did or should it be one heavy coat just before it starts to run also has anyone used this type of sprayer?
thanks

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Old 06-18-2004, 04:25 AM
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These Hvlp Turbines heat the paint and thats a major problem with Urethanes and Polyurethanes. The problems you experienced would be more the norm than not. Yes you can make it work, How? Beats me! Your friend says multi dust coats than he must of figured it out.
The paints that are going to perform the best will be the lower quality paints such as enamel. acrylic enamel/ omni- base or clear, Nason base and some clears, Western line (S & W)
One note, doing it his way will be a Major adhesion problem down the road and very poor resistance against stone chips.

Now is the time to make good use of that HVLP system and paint your deck, spot the house and knock off the fence. Thats what the system was mad for and does best!
Than give it back to your friend and get a paint gun.
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Old 06-18-2004, 08:20 PM
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thanks barryk guess nobody is using this unit i only have a small compressor porrtable 3 gal tank right now i'm sanding the hood down again thanks for the reply
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Old 06-18-2004, 10:41 PM
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I have to tell you, Len over at autobodystore.com has done a lot of work with turbine guns and from what I have read gets some good results from them. You may get some insight on how to get yours to work. I don't have much faith in them but it is worth a try.
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Old 06-19-2004, 12:02 AM
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34coupe , I have read on several other boards that you need to use the slowest reducer (highest temp) you can get when using a turbine system .
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Old 06-19-2004, 01:01 AM
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I've been using a 3 stage Turbinaire hvlp (MiniPro Plus Model 1235) for over a year now, and will never go back to my old gun/compressor (well, until my new hvlp gun with remote pot arrives tuesday then I'll fire up the air compressor for it).

I started off learning how to paint by shooting (chevy bahama blue) my kitchen cabinets and it turned out amazing. So little overspray, and so little paint used. One of the problems often noted with these units though, is the orange peel due to improper settings from those just starting off learning how to use them. It can be caused by having the gun too far away from the workpiece (more than 6-8"...the heat causes the paint to dry quicker, need to get it on the object faster) and because of improper settings (amount of air).

Quote:
"It is often thought that elimination of orange peel depends on an increase in air pressure to the spray gun. However, increasing the volume of air passing through the orifice of the spray gun cap can also eliminate orange peel. The HVLP guns that use a turbine rather than the conventional compressor are affected by volume and not by pressure. Thus turbine guns can prevent orange peel and produce fewer HAP emissions than a traditional gun at a higher pressure."
Here is some more info on turbine hvlp's:

Turbinaire FAQ's

Quote:
"With most finishes and coating, the drying time is reduced considerably because of the warm, dry air generated by the turbine being used to atomize the paint (this also eliminates the possibility of air line moisture or oil contaminants). Therefore, in applications where fast drying reducers are being used with conventional spray equipment, it would be recommended that a slower drying reducer be used when spraying with a TurbinaireŽ System for the same application. This will allow sufficient time for the coating to flatten out and flow properly. Otherwise, the drying time is generally reduced."
Fuji HVLP

Quote:
"Water-based lacquers (acrylics, urethanes and varathanes etc.) can be applied successfully with HVLP. Most of these products require no thinning whatsoever. Many of these newer coatings contain a high-solids content of 60% or more so the turbine must be powerful enough (at least the 3-stage). Several thin wet coats are preferable to one or two thick coats. Scuff sanding between coats is recommended."
The one thing the turbines don't do well at (need 4 stage...3 is too small) is heavy bodied latex (with lots of pigment), yet oil based products (which can be thinned) work great (so don't try painting your house, your fence, your.... unless you have a 4 stage one ).

Don't waste your time, or expensive paint by using the old style spray gun, but spend some time with the hvlp (I shot practice runs on cardboard and scrap body metal) getting it set up right. You will be amazed at how much waste there is with a regular gun, and how much you save $$$ getting more of the paint onto the object instead of in the air and on everything but what you wanted (that's why they were invented). An stand alone hvlp gun with the air compressor is still more efficient, yet the turbine unit comes a close second to it (with 65-70% transfer effieciency).

Last edited by nwoparamedics; 06-19-2004 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 06-20-2004, 04:55 PM
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thanks guys i'm going to stick with it got metal shelves a gal of enamel i think my problem was after i cleaned the gun i never adjusted the pattern control ring or material knob and i was 12 to 15 inches i really want to paint it but ... bigger problems my trans th350 went had to get towed one thing after another thanks again will post update this is a great site glad i found it
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