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Old 10-22-2011, 10:58 PM
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hydraulic clutch problems

ok I'm still having trouble bleeding my hydraulic ctutch. I have a master cylinder 7/8 bore under floor mounted with a resivoir on the firewall. I have a slave cylinder 13/16 bore. I bought a pressuer bleeder and let it push fluid thru for 5 to 10 minutes. Usually pushes a pint or so. Then it seems like the pedal is fairly firm. But after stepping on it a few times, I loose pedal and the pedal. Noit as firm. If I then try ot manual bleed by holding the pedal part way down and opening the bleeder, then closing, the pedal won't come all the way back up. The master and Slave are brand new. This is actaully the second replacement for both. Wanted to make sure I didn't get defective ones.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:52 AM
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hydraulic clutch problems

I'm not certain if it would apply to a hydraulic clutch system, but I wonder if it would help to have a residual valve in the lines as used in brake systems.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:15 AM
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you should have a small bib on the slave cylinder (not sure the ride you have ) that you can attach a small hose or vacuum line to fill a bottle have w/ brake fluid and insert this hose in the bottle (be sure bottle is clear to see through) and be sure it doesnt come out of the fluid . pump clutch pedal and hold it ALL THE WAY DOWN. crack bleeder valve and u will see air coming out , repeat until no bubbles are visible in the bottle. hope this helps
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:22 AM
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p.s. remember to keep check on the fluid in the resivor to make sure not to run it dry and also this process may take sometime
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:01 PM
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more info

I did push the pedal all the way down, then close the bleeder. The pedal does not come back up. I do have a small clear line attached to the bleeder bib and going into a jar. I keep the master cylinder full. I used a pressure bleeder and ran several pints thru. I get some air at first. then none. Then the pedal seems firm. But after stepping on it a few times, it goes down a little. I tried to manual bleed keeping the vlear line on and in a jar. Then I lose all pedal.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:59 PM
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Have yoy tried pulling the boots off of either or both cylinders, to see if there was any fluid bypassing the pistons?

I'd be contacting the manufacturers nexxt.
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:32 PM
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im gunna say either bad slave cylinder or master cylinder even if new one or the other maybe defective . it seems your getting air from somewhere or fluid loss in another.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:26 PM
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Is the master under the floor lower than the slave? Does the hose between the two loop up higher than them both? If so I think you may still have air in the line at the top of the loop. You might try unbolting the slave from the bell housing and letting it hang below the master. You'll have to rig up some type of stopper to keep from pushing the internals out of the slave cylinder.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:48 PM
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Hydraulic clutch problems

I almost junked my P/U bewcause of the hydr clutch! Found I had two problems with it. the first was that the steel line from the master cylinder on the firewall was rusted inside just enough to let air weep through it at a rate that bleeding seemed only effective for a few days, then I lost my clutch again. The other problem was that there is an inverted U (or upward bow/arc) where it goes over the bell housing. Any air in the line (from the weeping steel, or from bleeding) goes straight to the top of that inverted U and cannot be bled out. the fluid slides right by the air bubble. the bubble stays in place, or if it does move some down the line when you push the peddle down, it goes right back to the top of the inverted arc soon as the peddle bottoms out, and stays there. the fluid doesn't want to compress, but that little air bubble does. What's the solution? Take the whole system out. Master, line, slave. Fill and bleed the whole system in a manner where there are no places that the air can collect in the lines and has to be blown out the bleeder, or back throught the master cylinder. If there is anyplace that the air can be trapped, it will. Then seal up the system and replace it in the car as a unit. Works great if you have lots of room to get it in and out.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:00 PM
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problems still continue

its been a while, I have been working on other areas, but her I am back to the same problem. I am thinking no about switching to a cable instead og hydraulics. Has anyone insalled a clutch cable.
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:04 PM
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If you are sure you have all of the air out of the lines you might want to give this a try.

I have a 59 Elky with the slave cylinder for an 87 Chev truck
The master is for an 88 Chev truck---the master pints straight out similar to a brake master cylinder.

I had a hell of a time getting the clutch to work properly in this car.
The clutch line goes pretty much straight down to the slave.

Finally----jacked up the rear of the car as high as I could, and then had my son
get in and just feather the clutch pedal.

Turns out there was a bunch of air trapped in the master, and when the kid was just pushing the pedal in an inch or so, I could see the bubbles coming up to the reservoir. Clutch has been fine ever since.

Yep---pumping the pedal and cracking the line----clutch will not return
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