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  #16  
Old 10-14-2009, 05:05 AM
barnym17 barnym17 is offline
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Could a mod please show yanming the door?
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2009, 12:29 PM
PatM PatM is offline
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One other thing no one mentioned. With the faster ramps they (often) use, and higher spring pressures needed to support the faster ramps, one has to believe that flat tappet solids are more likely to wipe out a lobe than flat tappet hydraulics. Unless you break in with "break in springs."
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2009, 12:58 PM
ericnova72 ericnova72 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatM
One other thing no one mentioned. With the faster ramps they (often) use, and higher spring pressures needed to support the faster ramps, one has to believe that flat tappet solids are more likely to wipe out a lobe than flat tappet hydraulics. Unless you break in with "break in springs."

Also another case for the use of solid lifters with the EDM'ed or Laser'ed oil hole in the face. These hold up really well.

There are also lots of older solid cam grinds like the "Duntov" 30-30 or LS-6 or LT-1 grinds that have ramps slower than typical performance hydraulics, so you can't just catagorize solids as being "harder" on lobes and lifters.
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  #19  
Old 10-14-2009, 05:44 PM
barnym17 barnym17 is offline
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with the proper oil and brek in additives lobe failure should not be an issue.Just do not use an sl or sm rated oil after brek in. most motorcyle 4 stroke oils have enough zinc as does brad penn oil, valvoline racing oil(non street legal).Solids will rev higher and make better power 99 percent .of the time.
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  #20  
Old 10-14-2009, 07:21 PM
GunnerTHB GunnerTHB is offline
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I'm still not seeing the point in running solid lifters on a motor that won't get above 6,000rpm.....
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  #21  
Old 10-16-2009, 01:10 PM
hvy barrel hvy barrel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 489600
if you enjoy setting clearances,, go ahead and get the solid... the ramp rates are more aggresive than a hydraulic, and will make different power thru the range... plus if you happen to overrev the motor you wont blow a lifter as easy..sounds like you like to beat on your motors so go ahead... plus nothing matches the sound of a solid lifter cam at the stop lights...if you can afford it go for the solid roller... anyway thats my opinion,and am sure you will decide for your self...it'ss up to you... you can set the valves with a remote start button in 10 mins or less when you know what your doing...

x2
I run a solid in my 350 & love it. If you use a good set of posi-locks you won't have to adjust the valves all that much.
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