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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2013, 09:00 AM
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You are measuring with a new disc installed and the PP torqued down, right?

Russ

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2013, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
You are measuring with a new disc installed and the PP torqued down, right?

Russ
Same disc, pressure plate TQ'd down correct. The disc appeared fine.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:14 AM
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I remember your other thread but it's been awhile, what bell? I have that same t/o bearing on a Jerico using an old 70's BBC scattershield and it needed 3 spacers to shim correctly...

Russ
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
I remember your other thread but it's been awhile, what bell? I have that same t/o bearing on a Jerico using an old 70's BBC scattershield and it needed 3 spacers to shim correctly...

Russ
Yeah originally I thought it was an oil leak on the rear coating the clutch, but that was not the case.

As far as the bellhousing, Im using for now a GM oem one I bought on Ebay. It was for a chevy car or truck.

This is what Centerforce said in an email :

As discussed, your “A” dimension (flywheel face to engine block where the Bellhousing mounts) should be about 1-3/4” (1.700” to 1.750”).

Our clutch set should have a finger height of around 2.100” in the bolted-down “run” position. Therefore you should have a total installed height of around 3.800” from the back of the engine mount surface to the tip of the clutch fingers.

In order to help further, we will need to know the “B”, “C” and “D” dimensions.

If you are using a block plate between the engine and Bellhousing (“D” dimension), you will need to include that thickness to the “B” & “C” dimension (TOB fully extended and fully retracted measurement). We want your “D” and “C” added together dimension to be around 4.000”. Consequently, your “B” dimension should be around 3.450”.


Im leaning towards the clutch not being within spec but I cant measure the installed height from flywheel surface to the clutch fingers.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
You are measuring with a new disc installed and the PP torqued down, right?

Russ
BTW does your bearing retainer collar on your Jerico look this thick?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2013, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
BTW does your bearing retainer collar on your Jerico look this thick?
Looks identical, please post the diagram showing all these mystery dimensions. I told you 3 shims but after looking today there are 2. And after measuring, I think I'll be in the same situation you are. I can't remember who's instructions I followed on my original mock up, but after looking at the Howe instructions and taking out all my shims, I'm still 1/4" too long. Even with a 1/4" block plate there would be no room for disc wear. My old-school bell is 6 3/8" deep, from the block face to the fingers is 3 7/8" which leaves 2 1/2" from the fingers to the trans flange of the bell. With no shims on the t/o bearing it's 2 3/4" long. When it gets cooler here, I'll bolt everything together and get a better look.

Russ
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2013, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
Looks identical, please post the diagram showing all these mystery dimensions. I told you 3 shims but after looking today there are 2. And after measuring, I think I'll be in the same situation you are. I can't remember who's instructions I followed on my original mock up, but after looking at the Howe instructions and taking out all my shims, I'm still 1/4" too long. Even with a 1/4" block plate there would be no room for disc wear. My old-school bell is 6 3/8" deep, from the block face to the fingers is 3 7/8" which leaves 2 1/2" from the fingers to the trans flange of the bell. With no shims on the t/o bearing it's 2 3/4" long. When it gets cooler here, I'll bolt everything together and get a better look.

Russ
I didnt measure form the block to the fingers, I did it the reverse way but same end results. I went form bellhousing to fingers, and trans to TO bearing.

The 2 main dimensions I have are:

From bell housing to clutch fingers= 2.400


From transmission to throwout bearing surface = 2.600

Making my TO bearing pre-load my clutch about 200 thousandths, enough apparently to disengage it.

These numbers were rounded up and down for ease but I was like 190 thousandths to thick. which was close to 13/64ths . This was with ZERO shims.. Im using a Centerforce dual friction clutch, summit standard 33lb flywheel, GM bellhousing, Howe racing throwout bearing (which BTW measures exactly the same as the GM one 1.688) and the Gerico 4 speed.

Im not using a motor protector plate which would give me another 1/8th inch in my favor. I dont know where my discrepancy is coming from at this point.
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:12 AM
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I am ready to set this car on fire and let it burn at this point....I ordered the Lakewood industries/Quicktime performance spacer to give me the proper clearance. The spacer is .250 thick. I needed around .200 to not preload my clutch. Well I installed the spacer and try and pull the car out of my garage and I cant get into gear, just a grinding sound. Now I have the opposite problem of the clutch fully engaged... And for some reason the shifter is stuck in Limbo between reverse and neutral. Its a 4 speed Hurst shifter that requires you to push Down and pull back all the way to the left for Reverse. Im so sick of pulling this tranny out on my back on the cement floor that I think Ill just let the car sit, and eventually take it to someone who specializes in transmissions. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:17 AM
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I took it all apart just to measure with the new spacer. Before i was .200 to thick, now with the spacer I get a slight void of about .037 thousandths. Now keep in mind the shims they send are over .050 thick, so I would not require a shim. I just dont get what is going on at this point...Before the clutch would slip, now I cant get into gear..Could this be air in the TO bearing??
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:04 AM
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Just an update, I got everything worked out with my set up. Needed a .250 spacer and had to remove the clutch stop to give it more throw. All is well now.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Just an update, I got everything worked out with my set up. Needed a .250 spacer and had to remove the clutch stop to give it more throw. All is well now.
Spacer... Did this go between the block and bell or bell and trans? Not that it would matter. Where did you find it?

Russ
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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Spacer... Did this go between the block and bell or bell and trans? Not that it would matter. Where did you find it?

Russ
Bell and Trans. I believe it was made by Quick time Pro or Lakewood Industries.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 10:02 AM
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Bell and Trans. I believe it was made by Quick time Pro or Lakewood Industries.
Thanks! I'll either buy or make one...

Russ
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 08:38 PM
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Thanks! I'll either buy or make one...

Russ
Not worth it to make one, it was like $40 I believe..

Lakewood® - QuickTime™ Bellhousing Spacer
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Not worth it to make one, it was like $40 I believe..

Lakewood® - QuickTime™ Bellhousing Spacer
Got it, thanks! Found one on Amazon for $38 with free shipping.

Russ
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