[S10xGN]

Any reason why a hydroboost system couldn't be used on an underfloor application? I've got an old Rambler American with a hanging brake pedal, but no room on the firewall for a booster or hydraulic clutch pedal, so I'm toying with the idea of reverting back to underfloor pedals...

Russ

[gearheadslife]

no reason at all.. other than running the lines away from the exhaust heat
and a good master cyl seal. so the fluid doesn't drain back into the master and on the ground..

[S10xGN]

I guess you're talking of the master cylinder cap-to-reservoir seal. It would stay fluid-bound because the return line from the 'boost unit back to the power steering reservoir would be "uphill" and the master cylinder would always be full.

Russ

[gearheadslife]

Originally Posted by S10xGN

I guess you're talking of the master cylinder cap-to-reservoir seal. It would stay fluid-bound because the return line from the 'boost unit back to the power steering reservoir would be "uphill" and the master cylinder would always be full.

Russ

the booster(pump) isn't an issue as the p/s pump will be most times higher.. when mounted under floor
it's the master ,but many a car was like that, old packards come to mind..
if a claper has an effie seal you'll find out..

[farna]

The factory booster has a bracket which holds the booster about 4" away from the firewall and about 3" higher than where the non-boosted master cylinder is mounted. Ford uses a similar system. The bracket gives clearance to mount a small diameter booster. I believe an 8" booster was used. This Ford assembly for a 66-71 Fairlane/Torino will probably work, but lifts the MC/booster a little higher than stock. You should have room for this though (Master Power Brakes - FORD 7" DUAL DIAPHRAGM POWER BOOSTER/MASTER CYLINDER). This one for 55-64 full size Chevy cars is more like it, but uses a 1.125" MC instead of the 1" that the Rambler brakes need (Master Power Brakes - GM 8" DUAL DIAPHRAGM POWER BOOSTER/MASTER CYLINDER). A Jeep CJ-5 or CJ-7 uses a similar bracket, but upside down to LOWER the booster. What you might want to do is locate the Chevy brackets and use a Ford booster and MC. You would have to fabricate a correct length pushrod though. That shouldn't be a problem, just get the booster and MC together. I'm using a Ford Ranger booster with an original Rambler bracket in my 63 Classic. Had to cut the booster to pedal rod and weld a nut on the end as an "eye" for the linkage. Has been in there and works fine since 2003. I bought a salvage yard booster/MC just in case I messed something up!

[S10xGN]

Frank, thanks for those links. Always more than one way to git 'er done. Wish I'd know about those before I started fighting the brakes on my Maverick. The manual brakes flat out stink, so I went to calipers with larger pistons for more "clamp" and now I'm out of (15/16" bore) master cylinder stroke. Bought a 1" Corvette C3 master and oblonged the mounting holes so it would fit over the studs, and it hits my valve cover. Now I'm waiting on a 1" bore F-100 master... It's always something on modded cars!

Russ

[ogre]

i run an under floor hydroboost on my 58 chevy truck, it came stock with the under floor mc and i couldn't bear to clutter up the firewall with a big ugly vac booster
i used an 03 ford mustang hydroboost with the stock tank on it for a year
i upgraded to a remote reservoir after i had a caliper line failure and didn't see the level go down
the mc adapters and reservoir came from a nissan quest or ford minivan equivalent

[S10xGN]

Doable, thanks!

Russ