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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2013, 03:35 PM
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Some of the turbo experts prefer hypers for street turbo applications. I've always run forged, but don't think you'll have trouble if you gap the rings. I haven't done any research but you may have trouble getting the compression down with the longer stroke. I've tuned centrifugal supercharged and own turbo stuff. Both are a blast to drive. My only experience with a 144 wasn't impressive but it was a heavy car.

Kevin

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Old 02-13-2013, 10:26 AM
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My experience has been with both Hyper and forged. The difference for me comes down to the price - maybe $200 to $300 extra for the forged.
The engine I'm currently building for my C-10 I decided for peace of mind and the ability to get crazy with HP levels if I want, I bought forged Icon pistons, a forged Eagle crank and forged scat rods. Each piece was a decision based upon cost. I had the whole setup blue printed and balanced so the package got pretty expensive for me.
It comes down to piece of mind.
I recall a friend with a new Chevy truck that put a Vortech on it at supposedially around 7 PSI and promptly had to tear it down to replace a piston or two.
The mixture has to be just right, the operating temperature has to be right. If you play on the ragged edge with no margin for a mistake, oversight or mechanical malfunction you may pay the price.
I'm just tired of worrying about that stuff so I build in plenty of safety margin for the turbo I will add next winter.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:55 AM
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Do you think the pistons were do to the 7 psi? or was it a racing vehicle shifting over 5-6k rpm. Something wasnt right.

I am running 9:1 at 9+ psi since July . My c10 is limited to shifting at about 5200rpm. This is on stock pistons. It is a 85 tuned with a gas analyzer. Since my shifts are low I can run a 650 AVs carb with msd btm. It works.

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Old 02-13-2013, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I'm not sure why you think a roots blower is the cheaepst route, or why Fbird think that they're more fun. There are a LOT of ways to make good power, some cheaper and some more costly.

Nothing wrong with a roots blower but is far from the only show on the block.
your right, but comparing a turbo or centrifical car to a positive displacement blower driven car, the boost comes on at a very low RPM, and it's more "fun" for a daily driver.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:13 AM
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Does this look like it would be hard to install? It is most certainly cake.



Did you ever work at a muffler shop? Turbo system requires some fabriction time. Artisticly speaking it is more pleasing.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:15 PM
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What, are you ralking about?


If you had a engine with a turbo in lplace bleed out all boost , and still making 300hp. YOur staematment is still wrong.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:26 PM
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I just tore my 383 down on monday.


KB Hypers after a little detonation





One on each bank







I will never run them again for any reason. If I dont have the extra money for forged then it will sit until I have the extra money for forged. I do have the money so I bought probe pistons and am about to take everything to the machine shop this weekend.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by spinn View Post
Does this look like it would be hard to install? It is most certainly cake.



Did you ever work at a muffler shop? Turbo system requires some fabriction time. Artisticly speaking it is more pleasing.


That is the same magnuson mp122 I installed on our 63 nova last winter. The newer edelbrock version sucks because they decided to make it in house and started pressing the upper pulley on so it can not be changed to increase boost.

Was a piece of cake to install. Along with it I installed a hydraulic roller blower cam, new pro-filer heads and the new msd 6AL2 programmable ignition box and a map sensor to custom tune the timing.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:34 PM
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Prostreet that happened on your daily driver driving around? or in 1:1 winding down the end quarter?
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:36 PM
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They sell a hub kit a puller and a torch. then the hub becomes the pulley mount.

The aluminum original warps on removal.

A 3" will get you 8-9 psi.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:42 PM
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You can also weld the new diameter outside to the old pulley hub.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:47 PM
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Prostreet that happened on your daily driver driving around? or in 1:1 winding down the end quarter?

It happened driving it hard on the street. It was 12.5:1 and I was mixing 93 premium and 110 cam2 leaded and I guess I got my mix a little weak. I suddenly started getting a lot of crankcase pressure and smoke out of the valve covers and I knew something bad happened so I just tore it down. Strange thing about the car still ran great.


August 21, 2012 3:14 PM - YouTube
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:49 PM
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Im am smiling after that , thanks.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by spinn View Post
They sell a hub kit a puller and a torch. then the hub becomes the pulley mount.

The aluminum original warps on removal.

A 3" will get you 8-9 psi.


Our edelbrock was an early version with the keyed pulley. It comes right off nice and easy. The stock pulley that comes with it only gave our little 355 2 pounds of boost. I went to a smaller pulley and am now getting 5 pounds. I want to go one more size smaller and try to get 6 to 7 psi.



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Old 02-13-2013, 01:03 PM
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agreed a blower works better low down but on longer trips it allso heats up the charge wish is not as good for the octane rating (it causes knocking )
youre planning on building a 383
with stock vortec heads this motor could make 500 hp out of the box , they allso get a lot of tork so you dont realy need the extra stuff added
wat you could do is use slightly smaller turbo's than wat you would need at top end , doing it this way will make them spool up fast but run out of breath when you get near the redline of the engine , it still would look the business under the hood and be verry streetable
the smaller turbo's would act kind of a revlimiter wish is a good thing when you running the hypers and possibly a cast crank , as long as you have the motor tuned propperly you should be ok

theres a loooong story on www.turboforum.com called "will it grenade or not" about a guy driving a pontiac firebird who blew up a build turboengine and replaced it with a high milage chevy 350 small block from a van with a cam of unknown origin he fished out of the skip , he actually tried to get it to puke its parts out even used a small shot of nitrous at the track to get the turbo's to spool faster he did had some blown gaskets and some turbo problems but the engine lived untill he put his build engine in it again (a 383 btw)
theres a tonn of info in there but you have to get it out of the whole tread
you can find everything you need about the headgaskets , the torknumbers on the headbolts , the ringgaps he had , the size of the wastegate , even the turbo's he used , i did compiled it at some point in there but i forgot at wish page
the main reason it kept together was that he took his time tuning the system to work on the old engine
it might be a good idea to try and turbo an old non build engine first so when it blows there isnt too mush money involved and upgrade to a build motor later when you have some experiance tuning the turbostuff

as for the turboheaders , you can use stock log style cast iron headers switched left to right or upside down and make youre own crossover and turbo's tucked behind the headlight somewhere , youre going to need a oilreturn from the turbo(s) and an oilfeed with some sort of oilpressurereducer they usually use just a small orfice inside the line for that sumtin like either a special gasket or a pil like in the old injection or nitroussystems and you need a boostreferenced fuelsystem (when you build pressure above atmosferic it pushes back on the fueldelivery )
when youre using low boost and fuel injection you could get away with one extra injector placed near the intake mouth running wideopen of a pressure switch , the stock computer will tune the rest of the injectors down to the propper lambda readings , you still need some extra pressure and boostrefference just to be safe though

there allso turbosystems for sale that mount under the trunk of the car/truck , the nay sayers say it takes longer to spool up and that the exaustgasses loose a lot of thermal energy underway to the turbo's but i think if you use smaller turbo's that need less flow they spool up just as fast and the longer aluminium intakepiping even cools the charge a little going to the engine , the difference in the time it takes to build up pressure in the intake pipe compared to a close in system is minute i think , allso there no turbo's under the hood heating the air under there and it makes more room for a big electric fan or bigger radiator (big block radiator ?) to keep the rest of the engine running cool

i have a c10 as whell and i wanted a little more stealthy system
my plan was to get some stainless headers make a short stainless connector pipe that goes from the headers and under the cab till right under the truckbed where it bends up to the turbo intake and has a small pipe going straight out for the wastegate (mounts back intoo the exaust upstream after the turbo to keep it silent) and a flange to take the turbo then have a simple stack like exaustsystem poke trough the bedfloor straight up , it would take the least exaustfabrication out of all the homemade turbosystems available you only need a few 45 degree bends , the rest should be straight pipe and those you can get eazy at some webshops , you can bring the pipe itself to the welder once you tacked it or taped it together they dont need the whole truck to fit the stuff
you do need a long chargepipe to the enginebay and a small scavenge pump to get the oil from the turbo thats under the oillevel to flow back intoo the engine (usually intoo one of the valvecovers saving some welding to the oilpan as whell)
for the fuelsystem i had a simple solution too : adapt it so it runs on propane gas , these systems are allready airtight (no need for a blow trough type carb ) and can be made boostreferenced very eazy and no bigger or extra fuelpumps needed as the gas inside the tank is pressurized , the propane is 108 octane but looses its rating fast when the temperature of the charge goes up , i need to keep a good eye on the intake temperature and if needed i would fit a water to air intercooler under the hump in the cabfloor where the 2nd fueltank usually goes , i still need to make sure i get enough gasflow intoo the engine so i plan to use a double vaporizer on a single impco 425 carb (650cfm)
the carbhat i found in the spectre catalog and its realy cheap , i need to have the blowoff valve welded to it though , you actually could get most parts for the chargepipe part and the airfilter part of the setup from spectre as whell (i was planning on going to a wreckingyard find a semi truck and get the drumshaped filterhousing with paper filter from it to put under the bed next to the turbo ) , as you use low boost you prolly can get away with connecting everything using rubber hose connectors and hoseclamps
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