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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2013, 12:36 PM
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They sell a hub kit a puller and a torch. then the hub becomes the pulley mount.

The aluminum original warps on removal.

A 3" will get you 8-9 psi.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2013, 12:42 PM
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You can also weld the new diameter outside to the old pulley hub.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by spinn View Post
Prostreet that happened on your daily driver driving around? or in 1:1 winding down the end quarter?

It happened driving it hard on the street. It was 12.5:1 and I was mixing 93 premium and 110 cam2 leaded and I guess I got my mix a little weak. I suddenly started getting a lot of crankcase pressure and smoke out of the valve covers and I knew something bad happened so I just tore it down. Strange thing about the car still ran great.


August 21, 2012 3:14 PM - YouTube
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2013, 12:49 PM
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Im am smiling after that , thanks.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by spinn View Post
They sell a hub kit a puller and a torch. then the hub becomes the pulley mount.

The aluminum original warps on removal.

A 3" will get you 8-9 psi.


Our edelbrock was an early version with the keyed pulley. It comes right off nice and easy. The stock pulley that comes with it only gave our little 355 2 pounds of boost. I went to a smaller pulley and am now getting 5 pounds. I want to go one more size smaller and try to get 6 to 7 psi.



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Old 02-13-2013, 12:55 PM
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What, are you ralking about?


If you had a engine with a turbo in lplace bleed out all boost , and still making 300hp. YOur staematment is still wrong.

What?? if it had 300 hp from the factory and all you did was add a turbo you still got the power you had before. when the boost hits you got more. Turbos do not loose that much power down low they usally add a littel tq just cause the exhuast is more restricted at low rpm.

Now superchargers take between 25 and 100 hp. just try to turn one over by hand and you will see what I mean. the turbo will spin with the touch of your finger.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ProStreetCamaro View Post
It happened driving it hard on the street. It was 12.5:1 and I was mixing 93 premium and 110 cam2 leaded and I guess I got my mix a little weak. I suddenly started getting a lot of crankcase pressure and smoke out of the valve covers and I knew something bad happened so I just tore it down. Strange thing about the car still ran great.


August 21, 2012 3:14 PM - YouTube

Yeah I have seen some bad engines that run good aside form a little noise. When you pop the top you know its never going back together.

Sorry to see the damage. looks bad. hope the block and heads werent trashed as well. Hypers should take a little knocking it must have been rattling for a while. or all went bad at WOT.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:03 PM
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agreed a blower works better low down but on longer trips it allso heats up the charge wish is not as good for the octane rating (it causes knocking )
youre planning on building a 383
with stock vortec heads this motor could make 500 hp out of the box , they allso get a lot of tork so you dont realy need the extra stuff added
wat you could do is use slightly smaller turbo's than wat you would need at top end , doing it this way will make them spool up fast but run out of breath when you get near the redline of the engine , it still would look the business under the hood and be verry streetable
the smaller turbo's would act kind of a revlimiter wish is a good thing when you running the hypers and possibly a cast crank , as long as you have the motor tuned propperly you should be ok

theres a loooong story on www.turboforum.com called "will it grenade or not" about a guy driving a pontiac firebird who blew up a build turboengine and replaced it with a high milage chevy 350 small block from a van with a cam of unknown origin he fished out of the skip , he actually tried to get it to puke its parts out even used a small shot of nitrous at the track to get the turbo's to spool faster he did had some blown gaskets and some turbo problems but the engine lived untill he put his build engine in it again (a 383 btw)
theres a tonn of info in there but you have to get it out of the whole tread
you can find everything you need about the headgaskets , the torknumbers on the headbolts , the ringgaps he had , the size of the wastegate , even the turbo's he used , i did compiled it at some point in there but i forgot at wish page
the main reason it kept together was that he took his time tuning the system to work on the old engine
it might be a good idea to try and turbo an old non build engine first so when it blows there isnt too mush money involved and upgrade to a build motor later when you have some experiance tuning the turbostuff

as for the turboheaders , you can use stock log style cast iron headers switched left to right or upside down and make youre own crossover and turbo's tucked behind the headlight somewhere , youre going to need a oilreturn from the turbo(s) and an oilfeed with some sort of oilpressurereducer they usually use just a small orfice inside the line for that sumtin like either a special gasket or a pil like in the old injection or nitroussystems and you need a boostreferenced fuelsystem (when you build pressure above atmosferic it pushes back on the fueldelivery )
when youre using low boost and fuel injection you could get away with one extra injector placed near the intake mouth running wideopen of a pressure switch , the stock computer will tune the rest of the injectors down to the propper lambda readings , you still need some extra pressure and boostrefference just to be safe though

there allso turbosystems for sale that mount under the trunk of the car/truck , the nay sayers say it takes longer to spool up and that the exaustgasses loose a lot of thermal energy underway to the turbo's but i think if you use smaller turbo's that need less flow they spool up just as fast and the longer aluminium intakepiping even cools the charge a little going to the engine , the difference in the time it takes to build up pressure in the intake pipe compared to a close in system is minute i think , allso there no turbo's under the hood heating the air under there and it makes more room for a big electric fan or bigger radiator (big block radiator ?) to keep the rest of the engine running cool

i have a c10 as whell and i wanted a little more stealthy system
my plan was to get some stainless headers make a short stainless connector pipe that goes from the headers and under the cab till right under the truckbed where it bends up to the turbo intake and has a small pipe going straight out for the wastegate (mounts back intoo the exaust upstream after the turbo to keep it silent) and a flange to take the turbo then have a simple stack like exaustsystem poke trough the bedfloor straight up , it would take the least exaustfabrication out of all the homemade turbosystems available you only need a few 45 degree bends , the rest should be straight pipe and those you can get eazy at some webshops , you can bring the pipe itself to the welder once you tacked it or taped it together they dont need the whole truck to fit the stuff
you do need a long chargepipe to the enginebay and a small scavenge pump to get the oil from the turbo thats under the oillevel to flow back intoo the engine (usually intoo one of the valvecovers saving some welding to the oilpan as whell)
for the fuelsystem i had a simple solution too : adapt it so it runs on propane gas , these systems are allready airtight (no need for a blow trough type carb ) and can be made boostreferenced very eazy and no bigger or extra fuelpumps needed as the gas inside the tank is pressurized , the propane is 108 octane but looses its rating fast when the temperature of the charge goes up , i need to keep a good eye on the intake temperature and if needed i would fit a water to air intercooler under the hump in the cabfloor where the 2nd fueltank usually goes , i still need to make sure i get enough gasflow intoo the engine so i plan to use a double vaporizer on a single impco 425 carb (650cfm)
the carbhat i found in the spectre catalog and its realy cheap , i need to have the blowoff valve welded to it though , you actually could get most parts for the chargepipe part and the airfilter part of the setup from spectre as whell (i was planning on going to a wreckingyard find a semi truck and get the drumshaped filterhousing with paper filter from it to put under the bed next to the turbo ) , as you use low boost you prolly can get away with connecting everything using rubber hose connectors and hoseclamps
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2013, 01:08 PM
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2 psi ? How much overlap in the cam?

My c10 is a jasper rebuilt 305 with a performer cam. It was around 4-5psi with the stock pulley.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
What?? if it had 300 hp from the factory and all you did was add a turbo you still got the power you had before. when the boost hits you got more. Turbos do not loose that much power down low they usally add a littel tq just cause the exhuast is more restricted at low rpm.

Now superchargers take between 25 and 100 hp. just try to turn one over by hand and you will see what I mean. the turbo will spin with the touch of your finger.
You're so wrong in this post I don't even know where to start with correcting it.

If you install a turbo and forget to properly connect the intake ducting (bleed off all of the boost) you will have LESS power than you did prior to the turbo install as your exhaust is still having to go through the exhaust section of the turbo.

increasing exhaust back pressure NEVER makes more power

spinning a turbo or a supercharger by hand will tell you close to nothing about how much power they require at high rpm when making a good amount of boost pressure. That's like saying you can tell how far a guy can hit the ball by looking at a bat.

I know you mean well but your "information" is way off base.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:20 PM
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2 psi ? How much overlap in the cam?

My c10 is a jasper rebuilt 305 with a performer cam. It was around 4-5psi with the stock pulley.

236/248 @ .050 on a 113 lobe separation. I called bullet cams and Mike Jones and they both recommended a custom cam pretty close to identical to the comp NX288hr so I went ahead and got the comp.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:23 PM
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Yeah I have seen some bad engines that run good aside form a little noise. When you pop the top you know its never going back together.

Sorry to see the damage. looks bad. hope the block and heads werent trashed as well. Hypers should take a little knocking it must have been rattling for a while. or all went bad at WOT.


Hey I see you are in maryland also. What part? I am in howard county.


I think I got fairly lucky. I see no damage to the cylinder walls and only a few small marks on the heads. All the bearings in the engine looked really good. I am going to go ahead and take it .040 because last time it was not done with a torque plate and I want to do it right this time around. Guy Mancini is going to be doing the block and head work for me.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2013, 01:52 PM
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Bucket

Get you a 5 gallon bucket and keep it in the car, So you can pick up the pieces when it comes undone!! Man just Buy you some forged 8:5:1 and be done with it!! Trust me I have been there before!!! Its just going to end up costing more in the long run.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2013, 02:02 PM
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yup its all the pistons fault.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:12 PM
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Heat and detonation are what causes problems for pistons and rings. Heat comes from cylinder pressure and ignition. At low boost you can probably live with those pistons for awhile as long as you aren't running the car hard repeatedly. At higher boosts you are going to get cylinder pressures high enough to create long term problems for those pistons whether you detonate or not. They are not built for those conditions. Even purpose built pistons and rings have a certain shelf life at high boost.

If you are building a FI motor then you should consider what components to use to make the engine have a useful longevity for its use. If you're going to pound it then you need FI parts particularly valves, pistons and rings. If you're going to only occasionally get in to it then you may live for awhile with non-FI parts at low boost.

To another you are not going to see any problems with power loss with a turbo unless your backpressure is excessive and this will be seen at higher RPMs. Mine is high at a little over 3 to 1 but my motor works to 5800 rpm before falling off and I reach my goal by then so it is not a problem for me. I have larger wheels in my housings (T30 in T28 housings) which creates my problem but I get 'instant on' from them. This is the way it was built.
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