[Riot Racing]

Well i have the leading process done several times, on tv and in person.
I want to start practicing this nice technique. I had a nice article about all the supplies i would need and where to buy them, BUT of course it got misplaced in my 5 foot tall stack of magazines.

What supplies do i need? I already have the oxygen acetylene torch.
Also, if you could point me in the direction of some nice write ups, instructions, videos i can rent, I would deeply appreciate it all.
Wouldn't mind hearing some first hand experience stories either

[Nitrousbutton]

I did this back in the late 70's early 80's when I worked for GM. The hardest part of it is controling the heat. I think the torch you have might be a little to much heat. You would be better off with a propane torch with a fan type tip. You will have a little more control of the heat. It's an art,,Good luck with it, and be sure you wash your hands after handling that stuff, lead can make you real sick for a long time. I know there is a company that sells a kit to do lead work but I forgot who it is. Have fun, Be safe,,,Perry.

[adtkart]

Eastwood does sell a kit for doing lead. It comes with an instructional video. I am sure that there are other places to get the stuff also.

Aaron

[jimk]

Yeah,the Eastwood kit is pretty good,that's what I use.Comes with a DVD so that helps.

[jimk]

Oh yeah,just remember,DON'T sand the lead EVER.You have to file it.If you sand it and you breathe it in,BAD NEWS.

[adtkart]

JIMK.... I'm glad you caught that on the sanding. I completely missed that part. I can almost guarantee that it will need some type of filler over the lead work, as you cannot get it as perfect as you want to with a file, but don't sand the lead. Use a file for cutting it down, but still wear a respirator and cover exposed skin.

Aaron

[grouch]

Please excuse my ignorance, but why in the world would anyone want to use lead, anyway?

[oldred]

Fellows Heating the lead can be worse than sanding it! Wear a respirator ANY time you are working lead if you are heating it or making dust. I agree with Grouch with todays materials using lead rarely makes sense. I know some will tell the story of the old body man who used lead for a zillion years with no problems and maybe some have beat the odds but lead is dangerous and if you do use it be careful!

[ChevyTruckGuy]

No kidding, lead very bad. I saw a old guy customizer working on a car on Monster Garage he was like 75 smoking a cigar and filling with lead, one of the lucky ones. It seems to be a better way to fill in low spots and door edges.

Does any one make a lead free product?


Craig

[colormecrazy]

OOOOWWW! Yuck! Have you any idea what kind of toxins your stirring up with lead? Work metal and weld if you must but shy away from lead. I "new" an old guy that "did" lead work, but he's not around anymore.

[oldred]

Eastwood has some "lead free" body filler, not sure what the content is but it comes in a kit. Like most everything else some people have a higher tolerance to lead than others but make no mistake lead poisoning is real and it is bad news. One of the problems with lead is that unlike ISOs and the solvents in paint the lead will not evaporate and go away but can contaminate an area for years and get you when you don't expect it. Some people will argue that lead is safe and point to the "oldtimer" as proof but when they get sick they seem to run straight to the doctors who are warning us instead of the the old guy who managed to beat the odds.

[BarryK]

Buy only 70/30 lead for ease of use.
You will need.
Wood paddle
lead file
Wire brush with handle
Paddle wax
Tin
heavy duty gloves
Sealed eye protection from fumes and sanding.
A charcoal paint respirator and full clothing so lead does not get on your skin.
Acyl torch works the best.
3 inch grinder and 80 grit DA for finale finishing.

Its a great art but like they said you must use a full body rubber to protect yourself as lead is a killer will get in tear ducts, skin and liver here I come.

[1Fast65Elky]

Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy

No kidding, lead very bad. I saw a old guy customizer working on a car on Monster Garage he was like 75 smoking a cigar and filling with lead, one of the lucky ones. It seems to be a better way to fill in low spots and door edges.

Does any one make a lead free product?


Craig

I seen that episode they did a 54 chevy.
His name's Bill Hines , that dudes over 80 years old. On the show he said he likes to do a project a year or something like that Now thats alot of work!

[Rambo_The_Dog]

Originally Posted by Riot Racing

Well i have the leading process done several times, on tv and in person.
I want to start practicing this nice technique. I had a nice article about all the supplies i would need and where to buy them, BUT of course it got misplaced in my 5 foot tall stack of magazines.

What supplies do i need? I already have the oxygen acetylene torch.
Also, if you could point me in the direction of some nice write ups, instructions, videos i can rent, I would deeply appreciate it all.
Wouldn't mind hearing some first hand experience stories either

I agree the oxy-act setup is probably too hot to start off with - I also use a propane torch with the fan end.

The hardest part IMO is tinning the surface correctly so the lead sticks properly. Eastwood has a great lead kit that comes with "tinning butter" that works really well. Eastwood Tools Lead Kits

I'd say if you're working on anything 68 or older there is nothing wrong with using lead on rust patch areas and to redo factory body seams. Anything newer than that the alloys used in the newer metals are horrible if you apply heat to them and will warp like no tomorrow!

Eastwood does sell a non-lead kit but the material used requires an additional 100-200 degrees of heat compared to the 70/30 lead sticks.

[Sixguns]

Old cars have lead in the welded seams, back in the day the factory did not do a good job of cleaning the acid off when the lead work was done. why would they take the time, who would think the cars built in the 30"s would still be around today. you need to remove all the old lead to get that acid and old lead out from under that nice new paint job your about to put on. I enjoy lead work over bondo and when done well bondo is not needed over the lead at all. Here are some shots of my LaSalle reworking all the leaded body seams.