[humanVr4]

OK i got a new project that is a camera and i want to put a good motor in it to run the quarter mile my friend told me a 283 if i build it up will run very well and i am not quite sure of this so i am hoping you all can help me i only want to run 12 or 11 can some one tell me about how much this will cost and what all i will need or if this is not a good motor to do this in my friend uncle has a suburban that will pick up off the ground with a 283 and run 13sec quarter miles that i have seen so i am not sure

Jerry

[crazy larry]

i could not begin to tell you what it would take to run 11's with a 283, (i'm a ford guy) but there was a a boxy 60's nova at the drags running a 283, had it in the tens. then he ventilated the block.... but that's what he told me he always runs..... i didn't ask for spec type details. sorry.

i'd think a 350 would be cheaper?

what shutter speed are you running on your camera?

[killerformula]

put a big cam in it, nice heads, steep gears, n20 a blower and back it up into a giant rubber-band at the starting line-

K

[humanVr4]

see i am new to this i have never had a v8 i got a 3000GT VR4 AWD TwinTurbo so i hang out with Honda and cars like that but i got a 350 that needs to be rebuilt my friend gave it to me so if i do get it rebuilt i want to get forged rods and forged piston i herd if you bore it out 30over it is a 381? or something like that what all parts would you all put in it so i could hit 12 or 11 i do want to run NOS and the car will be striped only for track use

[Balz]

First, go to GENERAL RODDING TECH section and read what "Jon" has to say. It's the top post. Once you've got that read you'll be able to properly post a question. Do you have a Nikkon camera or a Chevy Camaro? Now, what kind of time line are you looking at? Is this pure drag? or street strip? Are you going naturally aspirated? There are many factors here. The difference between 11s And 12s is very substantial. I've got a 283 myself. Haven't put much mileage on it, and will soon be pulling it out of my '68 chevy C-10. High rev good overall performance engine. We'll need much more info to properly answer this question.

[humanVr4]

OK i will try this again, I am trying to build up a Chevy Camaro.
i want to make it run low 12 or 11, it will be street strip i will only drive it once a month on the street. i would like to know what engine i will need to make this happen i have no time line i would like to build it up then buy a motor for it i love the 283 my friend has one in his 69 chevy pickup and it fly's but can a 283 take me to the 12 or 11? or would i be better off with a 350? i got a 350 that my friend gave me i would be rebuilding it with forged rods and forged piston now i heard if you bore out a 350 . 030 it will be a lot faster but what does this make your 350?? a 381 i would love to turbo this car but that is a few years away i will use NOS on it so i can be able to hit 12 or 11 better the car will be strip all it will have is the dash is one seat also do they make a turbo kit for 350? or will it have to be custom

[Centerline]

Much better.

Don't bother with the 283. Although its capable of running 11's it's a little small and would be stressed too much running the times you're looking for. In other words you'd be breaking parts all the time.

Go with a good 4 bolt main 350. Parts are cheap and plentiful plus they make very good power. If you're pocket book is up to it you could even slip in a 383 stroker kit. A 350 will survive much better, be a little cheaper to build and although most parts for the 283 will interchange with a 350, things like pistons and rings are easier to find for a 350 than for a 283. Overall, going with a 350 really gives you more options for power combinations and a bit better reliability for strenuous racing. My $.02 anyway.

Centerline

[killerformula]

a 350 .030 over is not 381, your friend's math is wrong. Its a 355. Boring and stroking a 350 with a 400 crank makes a 383, which is a popular motor.

You can probably save the money on forged rods, slugs and crank and put it into the heads. Old school chevy rods and cranks aren't as whimpy as the new honda stuff you're used to (not trying to bash here, actually the newer stuff is just better engineered for stock applications with less mass due to newer technology and techniques). The upside to this is that chevy rods and cranks from the factory are pretty stout and can handle between 5-600 horse as long as they're kept under 6000 RPM (V-8's don't need to rap as high as the smaller motors you're used to, but also they're not designed to either). If you've got the money for the assembly you were mentioning, here's where I would start:
AFR or Dart heads (dart can be gotten much cheaper on EBAY for a slight reduction in power, great heads) 180cc runner, 2.02 valves or 195cc runner if you get the AFR
A roller cam would be a nice addition, but certainly not required. Something like a 274 comps would be as big as you'd need, and would sound cool.
Do research, keep your compression right around 10:1 or 11:1 if you're running aluminum.
Dual-plane intake.

That should get you started, let us know what else you come up with. Once you get this thing built, your honda friends will have some new respect for the old school, I promise.

K

[humanVr4]

what do you all think about this. would this be a good way to go?
if i did this to a 350 it would be a 383 then? should i get them .030 or .040 or is their a better deal out their?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33620

[killerformula]

that would get you your 383, but there are more cost effective kits out there, keep lookin man. I bought a 388 (383 bored another .030) with a 4-bolt block, fully ballanced and assembled short block (block, crank, berings, rods, slugs) for like 650 bucks.

K

[humanVr4]

where do i look for this stuff at? ebay?

[just another car guy]

www.summitracing.com has great deals on 383 kits as well as a ton of other great stuff

Dan

[killerformula]

Originally posted by humanVr4
where do i look for this stuff at? ebay?

yep

[Balz]

Try PARTS AUTOMOTIVE WAREHOUSE # 1-818-678-3203. There is a $5.95 charge, but it's over 1,100 pages of engine parts, build kits, accessories, etc.. Definitley worth having around.

[tresi]

Whether you bore an engine you bore an engine .030, .040 or .060 is a matter of doing what it takes in order to get a straight round bore. You're just cleaning up the wear. If a block will clean up at .030 then the next time you need to rebuild you go to .040 and then .060 if the block has enough iron. That way you get more rebuilds out of the block.
You can make a 500+ horsepower 283 if you have the talent and bucks. Of course you'll need to plan 4 to 6 sets of valve springs per racing season and touching up the valves and seats when you change springs. Maybe a couple sets of rings per season too.
Now for the same money you can build 3 or 4 500 horsepower 350's. Change oil once a month and take it apart every winter to inspect and freashen it up.
So, how much money you got?