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Old 02-18-2007, 07:49 PM
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I hate this elcamino....

ok, so im out test driving the brakes on a customers 65 elky. runs fine, runs strong. take it back to the shop and park it. day later, hard to start, wont stay running, wont idle. next time io go to mess with it, it starts backfiring through the carb and the pipes. the pipes sound almost like popcorn popping. this leads me to believe that its an ignition problem. so i get the car started (barely) and put a light on it. it never ran long enough to really tell what the timing was, but near as i got it was around 35-38 at 2200. it would only run with your foot on the throttle and th choke part way on. vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. it was running so badly that i decided to base time the motor all over again. so i pull #1 plug, and its soaked in fuel. clean it up with carb cleaner and a wire wheel to take the deposits off. do it to all 8 for good measure. also plugged every vaccum fitting i could(at the carb and manifold, not with bolts) to eliminate a bad vacum line. go to start it again, and only got it to fire once. ran like crap, still wont stay running, and still backfiring. again, i think its timing. for good measure, i reset the idle screws to base setting of 2 1/2 turns out, checked the float levels, and cleaned the air bleeds with carb cleaner. no dice. wont even crank now. so im done messing with it for tonight.


its a SBC with cast iron heads, an old edlebrock intake (pre performer, like a c3b or something) and a brand spanking new accel billet HEI dist. caps good, rotors good, mechanical advance isnt sticking. hypertech coil. vacuum secondary holly, wiyth the PCV valve outlet on the passengers side and side hung float bowls. im starting to suspect the carb has crapped out, even though it feels like timing.

so in short, what am i missing? im at my wits end, checking and doyuble checking everythguing i can think of so i can give the car back to its owner in the same shape that i recieved it: running.

thanks for any help.

Michael

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Old 02-18-2007, 08:08 PM
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Are you running a standard spark system that uses points and no solid state devices? If so, your problem sounds exactly like the condenser on the coil went out. I had exactly the same problem on a 1950 Case tractor. I thought it was the carb or timing, but it was that illusive little condenser.

Joe
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:15 PM
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Before you rip the carb apart, check for good spark.



Funny..."they" say that 99% of carb problems are ingition related, and 99% of ignition problems are carb related.

Ga-figger
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:28 PM
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My Falcon 200 did that, sticky needle& seat in the Holley 1940 Carb, rebuild cured it.
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Old 02-18-2007, 09:06 PM
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Probabily junk in the needle and seat(s). Remove counting the number of whole turns to unscrew each one. blow out the N&S assem with air and brake cleaner. reinstall. Reset float height after ya get it running smooth again.
Probabily loosened up some stuff in the gas tank while road testing the brakes from all the gas sloshing around in the tank.
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Old 02-18-2007, 09:24 PM
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Power valve?
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:09 PM
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Yeah...I've heard this before..."It ran right when I brought it in..."

Timing issues...could the distributor or timing gear jumped a tooth or worse?

Plugged Exhaust? I know this is a non cat motor but some of the symptoms sound like it.

Check the cap for carbon trails - or - double check the firing order?
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:35 PM
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With it only wanting to run at higher rpm and the choke partially closed it sounds like a bad case of water in the gas if nothing else has changed. Is that a possibility? If it was run and parked while still running good you can bet it's something simple.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
If it was run and parked while still running good you can bet it's something simple.
Good point.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:28 AM
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Carb Problem?

Since you stated" gas fouled plugs & backfired & Holley carb" this says right away you puked the power valve in the Holley, probably kitting it would be the best thing to attack first.Older Holleys were notorius for blown power valves after a backfire the newer ones and the new kits should address the problem. Good Luck!!
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:24 AM
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ok, ill respond on down the line.

Joe: its an electronioc distributor.
ill clean the needle and seats, as well as replace the power valve and toss some drygas in it. never thought about water an the gas. no carbom tracking in the cap, or cracks.

anything else i havent done or checked?


Michael
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:05 AM
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new carb fuel filter...???

add a $5 clear (plastic or glass) filter to the tank gas line before the pump, easy way to judge how much crap is coming from the tank

pressure test the pump.....will it hold any pressure when the motor is turned off

the scale and crap from the old gas tank eats the pump check valve and diaphram...."some" of the crap "soup" the pump ground up does get past the carb filter corroding and plugging the carb

"check simple first"= use a small hammer and tap tap tap all over the carb body to be sure the floats are free (breaks loose the gas tank crap that did get into the carb)

Last edited by red65mustang; 02-19-2007 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:20 AM
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Check the centrifugal advance in the distributor. Could be hanging....
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:21 AM
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both fuel filters are clean. one right after the tank, and onr right after the pump, so im doubting that i knocked anything loose in the tank.
the centrifical weights arent stuck. checked em. also getting 14 volts to the coil, and the motor is set at 0 degrees for timing.
pulled the old holley off it lastnight and put on one that was on my duster. gotta pull and clean the plugs tonight, as theyre fouled again. may just replace em. hopefully itll work this trime.

Michael
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:56 AM
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0 degrees inital timing would be retarded, should be around 8 for a stock motor and higher for a larger cam
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