[88lowrider]

Wow.
Looking at how tight that is for the distributor, I would say, no using points and condenser in the distributor. It looks like it would take some doing to get the cap off

The more pictures I see of your Model A, the more I am in Copy mode

I see you used one of those electric fans to cool the radiator, must be due to how low the fan sets and how much room you had to work with.
Did you have to use a special water pump and pulley or was you able to get away with the stock style?

We are tucked in on the edge of a mountain range (Olympic mountains ) at about 570 feet up looking down at the Hood Canal in Washington state.
Its all pretty much green forest, no, its All green forest here so it would take one big tsunami to get us.
I have seen the floods but always lived up in the mountains for the most part. Don't know why other than being a Norwegian with a name like Helmar

I am going to go look into your Photo album to see what you have added.
Any and All pic's of your Model A details are good

Helmar

[Frisco]

Originally Posted by 88lowrider

Wow.
Looking at how tight that is for the distributor, I would say, no using points and condenser in the distributor. It looks like it would take some doing to get the cap off

This is a large cap GM HEI distributor. Pictures are a little deceiving. The cap can be removed easily. The distributor can be removed when using an Edelbrock Performer intake. When I installed the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap there was not enough room to install the distributor due to the increased casting thickness of the intake manifold at the distributor hole. I had to place the distributor in the intake and install the intake/distributor as a unit. A little tricky but do-able. Better than pulling the engine to install the distributor.

Originally Posted by 88lowrider

I see you used one of those electric fans to cool the radiator, must be due to how low the fan sets and how much room you had to work with.

That is correct. I ran the fan 100% of the time. I wired a relay in the system to alert me by lighting a warning light if the fan ever lost power. I do not trust the aftermarket thermostatically controlled switches for electric fans. I have seen many of them fail on others vehicles.

Originally Posted by 88lowrider

Did you have to use a special water pump and pulley or was you able to get away with the stock style?

I used a stock short style Chevy water pump.

Originally Posted by 88lowrider

We are tucked in on the edge of a mountain range (Olympic mountains ) at about 570 feet up looking down at the Hood Canal in Washington state.
Its all pretty much green forest, no, its All green forest here so it would take one big tsunami to get us.
I have seen the floods but always lived up in the mountains for the most part. Don't know why other than being a Norwegian with a name like Helmar

I also live in the mountains of Western North Carolina. The elevation varies but I am at 2400 feet. The Pigeon River flows from a higher elevation on down, eventually into Tennessee. There is a levee along the section of the river closest to me, but it wasn't high enough when those two hurricanes (Frances and Ivan) came thru. The water level exceeded the 100 year flood plane that time and did a lot of damage in this area.

[88lowrider]

Frisco, it sure looks as it can be done.
Right now that little 283 that I have has the stock intake with a two barrel Rochester on it (might be a carter) and the stock distributor.
I will sure think about an electronic ignition system for it.

Getting closer on what parts and pieces to start to gather up.
I still need to get time to put the Model A frame up to see what I have to start with first.

I have to end this message to go look to see if you showed or sent me your rear end setup on your Model A.
Helmar

[Chevrolet4x4s]

The idea
IMG]http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32018[/IMG]
The beggenining of the reality

Shane

[chlsnk]

Originally Posted by F&J

...Ford... as in stock Pinto & M2



You said you were a boneyard builder and on a budget. The stock ford stuff can be used like on this 32. Not as pretty as aftermarket tube A arms, but at least it won't fall apart like some repro front ends.

There is a motor & body "laying" on the above chassis right now, but I most likely will be pulling it out this week. I could then put up some detailed pics of how it is mounted to the rails. I am not using this frame or front end, I went with a dropped I beam and transverse spring instead.


I have ridden in I beam cars at the speed you spoke of, and don't find it to be squirrely.

Whoa what kind of frame is that? It have MG rostyle wheels on the front and they are only 4 lug what is it?

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Looks like a ford frame with different suspension grafted on.

Shane

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by chlsnk

Whoa what kind of frame is that? It have MG rostyle wheels on the front and they are only 4 lug what is it?

It is a 1932 Ford frame with Pinto/Mustang II IFS ... from 1974 to 1978

Deuce

[88lowrider]

Well, I ran out of cash real fast.
My next step is to build a shop on our property to work on this project.
Kind of hard to do it on the Car Hauler.

The shop were I work is where the truck is and its not looking good for space to work on it there.

I will be picking up the stock frame and the rest of the truck to bring home for now. I hate it when things change like this, oh well....
HJ

[88lowrider]

Well, I got the Model A home now. It will sit on the car hauler until I can park it inside. It will sit under a costo cover for now.
Got quotes for the concrete foundation for at least two bays to start out with.

I started looking it over real well do see that body panels I will need. Just about everything but the doors it seems...
The box is in repairable shape. Got the stock frame loaded up and found it was already boxed in. Just needs to be checked for true, finish welding and fairing in the boxed area.
I got the specifications from Wescotts to help check things over with.
Then kill the rust, primer it and get it ready for the new front end.
I think I will just order a straight axle front end from Summit unless someone knows a reason why not.
This will not be a chrome toy, this will be a daily driver so not going nuts on chrome and billet work. I might have some powder coating done on things is about all.

The engine is a fresh overhaul and should be plenty of power for a cruiser.

Question about the axle drop.
Not wanting the truck to sit too low, could I go with a 4" drop and then deal how low she sets in the front with the wheels and tire selection?
HJ

[88lowrider]

I will be replacing my front axle on the Model A but not sure if I want to go with the 4 inch drop or more.
I know I can get more of a drop with the front tire size but looking to see what most have done.
HJ

[88lowrider]

Just to let folks now. I now have the shop about up.
Its a pole building that is 28x30. Model A pickup frame will go in soon.
Next step is to create a rolling chassis.
I have gone through the catalogs and have found the items that would be better just to purchase.
Build up a 9" ford rear end.
Find the adapter from 283 sb to 700R4 transmission.

Hope to be back on the project real soon.
Sorry that this post is so old but I will continue on.
HJ

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by 88lowrider

Find the adapter from 283 sb to 700R4 transmission.

Hope to be back on the project real soon.
Sorry that this post is so old but I will continue on.
HJ

A 283 SHOULD not need a adapter ... the only issue I see is if it is a early 283 and the starter bolted to the bell housing ( not the block ) . I believe all SBC since late 1957 or early 1958 have the provisions for a block mount starter

[88lowrider]

Originally Posted by Deuce

A 283 SHOULD not need a adapter ... the only issue I see is if it is a early 283 and the starter bolted to the bell housing ( not the block ) . I believe all SBC since late 1957 or early 1958 have the provisions for a block mount starter

Thanks Deuce.
I hate getting old. In looking at some posts, I seen the flat plate adapter that looked as it only held the three bolt start on.
I think my block, 58, has the holes but maybe only needing tapped.
I don't have the engine here so I am not sure of those holes are across from each other or staggered.

So, the flex plate, starter, torque converter should all just bolt up that you know of ?

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by 88lowrider

So, the flex plate, starter, torque converter should all just bolt up that you know of ?

Yes ... the proper flex plate, starter and converter can be sourced. You will need a Turbo 350 type flex plate for a late 60's SBC. In the mid 80's ( 1986 I believe ) ... Chevrolet changed the flex plate to crankshaft bolt pattern.

I would source a Turbo 350 flex plate ( a 153 tooth one ) that will bolt to your converter. Then a starter for a 153 flex plate.

Then it is all just a bolt up deal.