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Old 08-07-2010, 07:32 PM
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I have new ECI disc 5 1/2 bolts, no rear brakes

Initial thought that the 67 mustang master cylinder to be the problem, so I bought a 72 Corvette master cylinder and put it on. The portional valve seems to be the problem, I bought that valve from a junkyard from a 73 bonneville, worked until 2002, things seem to like going to the floor. A friend told me to hit the valve with a hammer, that did not fixed it. The fronts has very little fluid and nothing on the rear. Should I buy those red and blue in line valves? I have stomped on that pedal for a hours. With the 500 cad will need brakes, this all I need to get it on the road.

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Old 08-08-2010, 09:34 AM
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The proportioning valve, if it came from a Bonneville, is actually a combination valve, (commonly known, and called, a combi valve), it's a proportioning valve, metering valve, and brake warning valve/switch, all in one unit. We're gonna need some more info about the rest of your system, what kind of vehicle, what front brakes, rear brakes, power or non power, etc. Also, how and when did the problem start, and what are the symptoms?
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:15 AM
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1940 Ford standard coupe

I have a mustang II front on suspension, no power anything, such as booster, etc. The rear is a 9" with drums (67 bronco stock). The pedal is 40 ford under floor.

Thanks Rickracer
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:30 AM
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OK, so how did the problem start? What are the symptoms? Did you bench bleed the master? Is the master lower than the calipers or wheel cylinders? The Vette M/C is for 4 wheel disc brakes and won't have any residual pressure valves in it, so you may need to add one for the rear drums, and if the master is lower than the calipers, you may need one on the front as well. The rear R/P valve is normally 10 psi, and the front is normally 2 psi. You might be better off to go back to the 67 Mustang master and see what you come up with.
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:58 AM
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The Vette master cylinder is front disc and the rear drums. I benched the mc and pumped it, the mc had full fluid. When pumping, no fluid did not go out. Just small bubbles.
I checked about the Vette, the front is disc and drum. Do you think the 10 lbs and 2 lbs would fix it.
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Old 08-08-2010, 12:40 PM
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I can't understand why the rear m/c quit (Mustang 67), the front was working. Even on the front was not the best. The bench showed the front working and no fluid getting out, as it was full of fluid.
A friend that I should get the Vette m/c, he used it on a D-100 dodge over cab. It works great.
Another aspect, I had to plumb the lines during welding boxing frame on front and rear. I re-located the proportioning valve from engine pass side to under pass side under the cowl and bolted it in the inner frame.
My friend said could be the valve. Another a puzzle, the lines were all off down to the bare frame, sandblasted, new crossmembers, do you think the line may have some dirt wasp?
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Old 08-08-2010, 01:09 PM
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Possibly. I think I'd start from scratch, clean and blow out each line, verify pressure and volume from the M/C by bleeding it, then put your lines back on and see what you have from there.
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:25 PM
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I decided that you suggested, I pulled the Vette m/s, put it on the vice. M/S full of fluid, I got a philips (big) screw driver. I pushed the screw driver in and out for 6 times and the squirt on the front and rear on the m/s. I put it on the car, put the lines on M/S. I pulled the lid and started to stomper on the pedal. I got some resistance, and I heard bubbling on the front new disc rotors where I failed to lock down the lines from frame to calipers, tightening each bubbles, one on the proportioning valves, I may just try to use some thread tape on the leaking line. So far, I have not had to fix the rear. It is hard to bleed the my self. It still may have dirt in the line. Thanks Rickracer, I want to drive it now, maybe in the yard.
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:45 PM
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DO NOT use thread tape, if the flare seat doesn't seal, figure out why. Even non-power braking systems can generate 800 to 1200 psi, teflon tape will not hold that.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:31 PM
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Yes, that can get in the lines or leaks. I only put it on one fitting on the valve to the rear end brakes. I still don't have the rear brakes. Right now, there are no leaks. Rickracer, what would you do about to fix the fitting? Or buy a better fitting, I remember that fitting was damaged. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:01 PM
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If it was damaged enough that you cant get it tight enough to seal, then replace it,
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:30 AM
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Any auto parts store has various lengths of brake line already double flared. You will have to bend to fit - hope you have a tubing bender as the line can kink easily.

As far as my opinion of ECI ......... nah, you don't need to hear that . Let's just say they are not on my list of suppliers for anything.

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Old 08-09-2010, 07:11 AM
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I bought a kit 5 1/2" for a 40 spindle, that was along time, I still have the kits on the straight axle. I am putting in another 40 ford coupe, I will build it with flathead. It is stock and runs. I may put a 51 mercury overdrive with open driveshaft to the banjo. Anyway, I liked those discs, they did quick stop. The other 40 talking about the street rod with 500 cadillac, I bought a mustang with ECI 5 1/2", so far, I have not driven it yet. I was afraid to put the TH400 in gear, I don't have a shifter. I wanted to use the 40 column, it would be hard to do. Yea, those discs are very expensive. In this times, are hard.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:28 AM
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When you did the bench bleed procedure, you ran the lines back into the reservoir or another container of fluid, right?


Also be sure there's no preload on the master cylinder piston from the push rod when the brakes are fully released.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:19 AM
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Switched from 67 ford to 72 /vette M/S

I noticed the rear on ford back reservoir did not work, the front was o.k., the Vette M/S I put it on the car to make sure it would fit. I had to widening on the holes to fit. I bolted it on, then unstall. I put the M/S on the vice, filled up the reservoir. Using the screw driver big philips and slowly pump it up, just as that article. I don't have many people around, so when I find a body, I may get the rear to work. I was happy to see both reservoirs. Thanks, Coltbalt327. I am just a mechanic under a tree, I wish to fix the 40 column to the TH400. I may have to make a bellcranks in the floor pan with a rod to the shifter on the 400. Any ideas? Maybe Lokar shifter would be easier.
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