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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 05:08 PM
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Much beyond 500 NA HP, the chassis and attendant parts and modifications to hold up to the the power and hook it all to the ground starts to cost more than the engine. HP means nothing if all it does is spin the tires. Just something to consider...

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327
Much beyond 500 NA HP, the chassis and attendant parts and modifications to hold up to the the power and hook it all to the ground starts to cost more than the engine. HP means nothing if all it does is spin the tires. Just something to consider...

For me, its a lifelong project. Im never getting rid of this truck. So racing tranny or just a beefy one, drive line, and rearend up grade.? For sure. Torsion bars. Race tires. Im wanting it to be a hell'a show truck someday. After getting all the engine and drive train complete and like it. Tear it all back down, frame up restore.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 05:32 PM
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I believe there's something to be said for building a project up from the rear, forward. Doing things this way, the engine will be one of the last things done and there's no way it shouldn't be a perfect match to the rest of the truck.

But building the engine often takes priority. Thing is, then rest of the truck has to be built around the engine, and if a particular part is center stage- like the heads in this case- you'll find you're basically building the entire project around a set of heads.

Anyway, that's just one guy's opinion. There is more than one "right" way, so kudos for wanting a strong running vehicle and good luck w/whatever you decide to do.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I believe there's something to be said for building a project up from the rear, forward. Doing things this way, the engine will be one of the last things done and there's no way it shouldn't be a perfect match to the rest of the truck.

But building the engine often takes priority. Thing is, then rest of the truck has to be built around the engine, and if a particular part is center stage- like the heads in this case- you'll find you're basically building the entire project around a set of heads.

Anyway, that's just one guy's opinion. There is more than one "right" way, so kudos for wanting a strong running vehicle and good luck w/whatever you decide to do.
Im picking up what your layin down big guy. Lol heres how i see it. Lets say i build the bottom end, with x type pistons. Now im ready to select top end components and realize i should of used xy pistons. See my point.... i just think that an engine is built around itself in theory. It's a big equation and until you match the components to what the person is looking for. I know hotrods cost money. Its expected. But its cheaper or convenient to swap heads in my situation.

I dont want to get the body and chassis ready and interior. Then get a scuff or stain. Just my opinion. Any advice i really enjoy and take in. Dont want to give off the wrong idea
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wild_man84
Should I go for the bigger valves . Not the 2.19/1.88 bigger. Nows the time to get the head work done. If i should go bigger then what size? Also what other valve work should I get. Basically, what work should I have done to put these heads at full potential for what im using it for. Not dragging.
yes, I think the 2.19/1.88 are what you want
I dont think you want the 2.25 intakes, they are too big for 781s
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I believe there's something to be said for building a project up from the rear, forward.
X2^
Simply changing the rear gear ratio from, for instance, 2.73 to 3.73 will make it seem like you've put a power adder in the motor. So, if a fellow was satisfied with the performance from a gear change only, he could save himself a lot of money, have a faster car and the motor is still stone reliable.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1
X2^
Simply changing the rear gear ratio from, for instance, 2.73 to 3.73 will make it seem like you've put a power adder in the motor. So, if a fellow was satisfied with the performance from a gear change only, he could save himself a lot of money, have a faster car and the motor is still stone reliable.

its 373 rear gears now. 14-bolt limited slip. but! I do see your point...

Well, tomorrow I have to talk to the machine shop about what work needs to be done. so.... Im going bigger valves.2.19/1.88. competition valve work milled for cc's ( figuring since my pal on here recommended not to bore to 496. rather a 468. if i mill heads to a smaller cc, that could compensate a bit for the lesser cubes) am I correct as that goes. basically, your taking less volume into a lesser area.

Im wishing I would have taken pictures before I sent them off. Really excited to get them back.

any recommendations on type of valve to order. materiel/manufacturer. im sure it comes down to preference on some parts as oil. but some oil works and some doesn't. any history of certainty on working valves that's satisfied one.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 09:41 PM
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i was told you dont need to spend a fortune on the intakes but it doesnt hurt to upgrade the exhaust (more heat)
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by matts37chev
i was told you dont need to spend a fortune on the intakes but it doesnt hurt to upgrade the exhaust (more heat)

so, just stainless is fine for this setup??
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wild_man84
( figuring since my pal on here recommended not to bore to 496. rather a 468.
.060 over with 4" stroke gives you 468. The same .060 over with a 4-1/4" stroke gets you 496.

Why not stroke it to 496 and get the 28 extra cubes? This is an excellent way to get closer to the power you're looking for and higher compression in one shot.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
.060 over with 4" stroke gives you 468. The same .060 over with a 4-1/4" stroke gets you 496.

Why not stroke it to 496 and get the 28 extra cubes? This is an excellent way to get closer to the power you're looking for and higher compression in one shot.

Awesome, That what I initially wanted to do but was told bad idea. So, I backed off. now!! Im back on it_____ full speed... Heading back to south Carolina where I have the same stocker engine in my storage to build while the one in the truck is still drivable. So, after reading your post today at work. stole a few minutes from the man... haha..... did some googleing about rotating assem. and eagle, scat, oliver, carillo...

"H" or "I" beam rods??? Yes, I could possibly add a supercharger DTR. with that in mind....

Did some searching/reading. both have pro's/con's... weight/strength
scat crank with eagle rods... hows that sound???
Positive and negative feed back on experience with or know about exp. with bottom end components...

also, seeing Im pretty much going 100% complete build... should I get a GEN V or VI block? Im talking and searching and GEN IV's have high oil use issues... I dont drive it a lot. so would that be just as good. Meaning, No sense in buying another block since I have one

http://www.camaros.net/forums/archiv...php/t-839.html

can I bore my Mark IV safely .60 over and not hit the oil gallery??

Last edited by wild_man84; 03-02-2012 at 07:50 PM.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 08:12 PM
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Update On The Heads

Called the machine shop first thing this morning before making my 300' climb to work ( yes wind turbines ). Let him know the heads should come in today or Monday.

We talked briefly due to the fact he was the only one on the phones for the weekend b/c two others were off to a race or something. He was really nice and apologized 10 times or more bc he kept having to put me on hold...

Basiclly we kinda discussed what I was looking a getting done. ( And to give y'all a laugh, didnt finish everything and was around $1200 without parts, wanted to share that to give you a laugh on that 800 conversation haha)

So, Because hes going to be short with time and not be able to focus his undivided attention to me. He ask if he could just wait untill the heads came in, so he could look at what route we/I may wanna go. And, he would be fully staffed again, he'd be able to talk with me and not get interupted... All which made perfect sense to me and completely understandable. Plus, give me another day or two to talk here and look around.

While talking briefly though, He asked me what kind of intake I was going to be using? I told him " Was going to use the Holley 9901-202 - Holley EFI Intake Manifold" He Kinda chuckled and asked the purpose of the build. I told him "mainly just Sunday and car shows" He then tells me about the intake from the company he works for and how more efficient it is AND it would be different at shows and would get more attention. Goes on to add that they can powder-coat it also. And would port match it to the heads ..
Sounds good to me for one reason, cheaper than the efi 3000 system but!!! also sounds like he is doing his job, being a salesman. Also, If I go carborated, I then, Have to figure out a way to hide all the wires in the engine bay.....

Let me here y'alls input--------

http://www.steveschmidtracing.com/sn...-manifold.html

Last edited by wild_man84; 03-02-2012 at 08:13 PM. Reason: forgot to put link for intake
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wild_man84
He then tells me about the intake from the company he works for and how more efficient it is AND it would be different at shows and would get more attention. Goes on to add that they can powder-coat it also. And would port match it to the heads ..
Sounds good to me for one reason, cheaper than the efi 3000 system but!!! also sounds like he is doing his job, being a salesman. Also, If I go carborated, I then, Have to figure out a way to hide all the wires in the engine bay.....

Let me here y'alls input--------

http://www.steveschmidtracing.com/sn...-manifold.html
look up some info and it says its operating rpm range 4000-8500... Im not going to be matched to my cam or heads or what I want to be. So, to me I should pass on "this" intake.. Just doesnt match my setup Im going for.. what yall think
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
.060 over with 4" stroke gives you 468. The same .060 over with a 4-1/4" stroke gets you 496.

Why not stroke it to 496 and get the 28 extra cubes? This is an excellent way to get closer to the power you're looking for and higher compression in one shot.
I am building a 496 because (just like the 781 heads) by the time you pay to have the crank checked, turned, polished, rods resized, pistons hung on the rods, etc.
for a little more, you can just by a new scat rotating assembly
then you are spending your money on new parts, not checking and maybe fixing and reusing old parts
the only real difference for me, was paying to have the block clearanced for the extra stroke (this you could do your self if you want)
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2012, 06:56 AM
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I just got the BBC book by David Vizard.

I just started reading it but looks OK.
May be a good investment before deciding to buy parts.

Book
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