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I learned something about Ospho today

6K views 39 replies 7 participants last post by  deadbodyman 
#1 ·
I was playing around and removed some pretty heavy rust on my old car door about 5-6 yrs ago at my old shop and it cleaned up fairly well.
about 3 yrs ago I started sanding off rest of the paint and it just sat for 3yrs.
 

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#2 ·
6 months ago I had to park it outside with the door in bare metal.
This week I sanded all the surface rust off with 80 and then noticed that the heavily pitted rust I removed 5yrs ago hadn't rusted at all hows that for protection? I was a bit amazed, but by the time I realized it I had already sanded the surface rust of pretty good but theres a little left around the pitted part so you can get an idea how much rust was on there.
 

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#3 ·
meanwhile the 1/4's were done without ospho and just wire wheeled and and epoxied after repairs that was about 10 yrs ago but even being cleaned up really well the pits started rusting under the filler and epoxy. Now I'm using my spot blaster to chase the rust as far as I dare before getting into the repair.this isn't bondo or tiger hair its weld glue because I patched the rust holes from the inside trying something new that also proved out to be a good repair without any welding just glue. I wish I took the time to Ospho it and epoxy it before doing the repair it would probably last another 20 yrs
 

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#5 ·
I've never used that stuff but it appears to have done a good job converting the rust in those heavy pits. The stuff under the epoxy isn't suprising but I wonder how that would look if you had hit that with just spray paint before it sat. Always good to see an old project recieving new interest, and thats a cool car. Enjoy the project.
 
#6 ·
I didn't convert the rust I removed it with Ospho and a wire wheel. Converting is not a good way to deal with rust. Ive sand blasted rusty, pitted metal that had been rained on and every time the pits rust before the surrounding metal, This is completely opposite.

I'm still really impressed with this glue though It makes a heck of a good ,water tight patch and in many cases is a better way to do a repair than welding, I just wish it were more affordable .

Its not too often we get to see time tested repairs but the last thing I learned these last couple days was about this SPI epoxy, I've been sanding it off getting to the metal again and holy crap this is good stuff Im really impressed with everything about it and how well it sealed up my rushed metal prep work. Once I got the repairs done to the 1/4 I was running out of time and cars were backing up so I didn't take as much care on the rust I just cleaned it all up with a wire wheel and epoxied it without any Ospho, If I had took he time, and epoxied it it would have been much better.
The roof of this car was done exactly as it should have been and was done about15yrs ago its still looking perfect as far as rust not coming back. after stripping the paint , and removing the rust with Ospho and wire wheels ,(It was full of pitts from having a transmission sitting on the roof more many years making a sort of bird bath until holes appeared and let the water drain out) I then epoxied it and did the filler work there are no signs anywhere of any rust coming back.
So when someone asks which is better epoxy THEN filler or filler over metal then epoxy, heres the proof, epoxy first then filler is better. but filler over metal then epoxy IS good and in most cases good enough for most cars , theres just no beating the "The epoxy sandwich"
 
#7 ·
crazy or confident most likely both.
This is what I started with basicly iron oxide and Glass and a little rubber. This is the car before doing any actual structural/bodywork but after putting in a drive train and the tilt nose. It runs and drives. Good Lord this was a long time ago did I ever have that much energy? where did it all go?
 

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#12 · (Edited)
I started using it about 40 years ago (1976) I've been using it on all my rust removal work ever since. Its my opinion that ospho should be used no matter how the rust was removed, including media blasting and electrolytic "you can see why" It'll convert any minuscule traces of rust and protect an unprimed surface for many years.
while were on it, it's also useful as a metal prep cleaner for super clean, etched surfaces that mere sanding just cant do.
Theres been a lot of negative hype about Ospho from people that wernt using it properly or never used it, heres the time tested proof how well it works when done properly.
 
#13 ·
I've been cleaning up all the pieces I've made that have started rusting with ospho.
Some weren't bad at all because they were coated with something called paint grip. Good stuff from now on that's what I'll be using for sheet metal, it don't rust and the epoxy primer really sticks to it.
I showed my helper how to use it and let him loose on all the rusty pieces. He did an excellent job and by the end of the day he really mastered it, theres a pile of pieces all done and rust free, tomorrow we should be prepping and priming.
 

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#14 ·
He started sanding with 80 DA to get the loose stuff off then hand sand with 80 wrapped around a scuff pad. Then spraying on the ospho and scrubbing it in with a scuff pad. respraying and a fiber disc (gasket cleaner) followed by a wire cup all the while keeping it all wet. Then one more rewet and scuff and wipe it all off. wipe it off good the more that's left on is all the more that has to come off when you prep for primer ,use lots of white paper towels.
 

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#19 ·
I am soooo glad to get to see you working on the old girl again. I think you are doing a job that, even more than mine, shows just what can be done.

You have not used exotic tools, spent a great fortune, nor refinanced the house. What you have done is devoted a good bit of time, used a lot of imagination and a tremendous amount of patience, imagination, and determination.

This is a fascinating project Mike. Please keep the pictures and updates coming. :thumbup:

John
 
#20 ·
Thanks John, funny you say that, Back when I made these tubs I didn't have my stretcher/ shrinker so I used a chop saw to cut groves in the folded lip every inch or so allowing the piece to bend. when I took it all apart I thought about remaking these with the shrinker without all the cuts but decided not too.
I bought a lot of steel for this but theres a lot of old hoods here too I like using old hoods for the smaller pieces because theres epoxy already on the inside.
I'll tell you what they may just be small pieces but cleaning prepping and priming took my helper 2 days so far.
 
#22 ·
I got most or all my reshaping ideas while it was in the drive way too. I could sit on the porch and just look at it while drinking my coffee and figure out how I was going to do something like reshape the ugly nose ,the rounded front of the hood and especially the headlights had to go not to mention that grill. Theres a lot of looking time, sitting on the porch just getting ideas. These are VW bug headlights 1966 or so.

The whole point of my build is to do it in true hotrodder fashion, low budget, salvage parts, done at home. The art is in the creation not how perfectly every aspect was done. Theres a place for that too Im just trying to get my ideas down on canvas sort of speak. I'll make all my mistakes on this old crappy metal then when I think it looks right I'll redo everything again on another nose in better shape, like mocking it up I guess.
 

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#25 ·
another angle. Hold your thumb up to cover one headlight, I like the new one.
and the new grill I made.
This was all done in my driveway so you don't really need a shop or a bunch of tools. You will need a good compressor and welder and time everything else will come to you.
 

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#29 ·
What kind of shape are your rockers in ? The way these were designed they'll hold water and rot if theres any undercoating in there. I'm just going to leave mine in primer on the inside so any water can drain out through the pinch weld at the bottom.
These rockers are the exact same as the originals but instead of only having a short little rocker the length of the door I went with a full length rocker and brought the 1/4 down to it like a modern car is made, its much stronger this way
Hardly noticeable and a ton of work and unless you have a Plymouth it goes undetected. Only one guy ever said anything about the rockers, he liked the idea.
 
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