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Old 11-06-2011, 07:21 PM
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I need a 10 sec car recipe

anyone can provide basic guides to build a 10 sec car on street tires? any car, no rules, except street tires, I have an ElCamino, a 67 mustang, a 46 chevy and a 350 SBC V8 mid engine dune-buggy, can use any of this or even scratch build one, tube frame with 'glass body?.

or probably a jap or euro with an american V8 ?

thanks for helping.

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Old 11-06-2011, 10:37 PM
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Bottom line: you will not run 10s on street tires. An aging hot rodder at 64 with five decades of building my own under my belt, my current street driven 10 second ride is the product of years of creeping up on running 10s. The current combination, in a 3,100 pound Model A Tudor sedan, is rear gears of 3:55, a TH 350 trans, 4,000 stall convertor, 355 c.i. SBC, Dart 215 cc heads, 7.5:1 static compression, twin Holley 600 cfm blower carbs, and a Weiand 250 blower (basically a GMC 4:71). I finally ran 10s this summer, but used, and really like, Goodyear drag slicks. Earlier this summer, I tried street/strip drag tires, and they were just about worthless. Sixty foot with the Goodyears is in the 1.50s. Sixty foot with the BFG street/strip slicks was 1.80.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:10 AM
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The closest of anything you may have is that Dune buggy..Weight is the big deal as the more weight you have to pull requires more HP and bigger stickier tires. Maybe some Kumhos on the buggy and you may get closer to 10 seconds..

Sam
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 471A
Bottom line: you will not run 10s on street tires. An aging hot rodder at 64 with five decades of building my own under my belt, my current street driven 10 second ride is the product of years of creeping up on running 10s. The current combination, in a 3,100 pound Model A Tudor sedan, is rear gears of 3:55, a TH 350 trans, 4,000 stall convertor, 355 c.i. SBC, Dart 215 cc heads, 7.5:1 static compression, twin Holley 600 cfm blower carbs, and a Weiand 250 blower (basically a GMC 4:71). I finally ran 10s this summer, but used, and really like, Goodyear drag slicks. Earlier this summer, I tried street/strip drag tires, and they were just about worthless. Sixty foot with the Goodyears is in the 1.50s. Sixty foot with the BFG street/strip slicks was 1.80.
thanks, assuming I have a car just like yours, what do you think my best et would be with 295/50R15 Toyo Proxes tires, on a rough, worn out tarmac? (old main straight of a road course used now for drags)
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
The closest of anything you may have is that Dune buggy..Weight is the big deal as the more weight you have to pull requires more HP and bigger stickier tires. Maybe some Kumhos on the buggy and you may get closer to 10 seconds..

Sam

I tought so, but kinda scares me going over 200km/h without a body, I wish the race was only an eight of a mile.
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:50 PM
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What do you mean by street tires? Drive able tires or just dot legal? Some of the dot legals are almost as good as slicks.If its not something you want to drive on the street and just want to run one of the street legal classes at the drag strip. I would fine the smallest car I could strip as much out of it as possible and add as close to 600 hp that I could get. Try stay no more than about 2000 lbs and don't get to short on the wheel base nhra has a limit on how short.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:31 PM
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The tires that we usually drive everyday, not DOT legal drag tires, regular off the shelf tires, like the ones I have now, Toyo Proxes

http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/pr...e-summer-tires

or similar.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:42 PM
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NO RULES here, exept for the tires, this weekend's race there were Mitsubishi Evo's vs Camaros and Civics vs Mustangs, it's a run what you brung type of racing, open class, nitro, turbo whatever allowed.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:54 PM
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It takes a lot more then just a hot car to get into the 10's... You have to be able to plant the hp to the ground,,, And be able to handle the ride as well.... So you have to be as good as the car you build... I'm not saying you are not..... Just saying it isn't just in the motor... It's a combination of things...
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:40 PM
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exactly, this is why I posted asking for a recipe for a CAR, not just a motor, 'cos building a 600+hp motor is not a really big deal (big $$ it is ) but putting the power to ground is the real key, my cousin this weekend had this 77 C10 with an EFI twin turbo 383 + nitrous + alcohol injection that makes about that much power, but lost big time due to the huge chassis flaws it has, not to mention the aerodinamics of a brick.

I would like some opinions about rear ends that work, 4 link maybe?

front/rear weigth distribution? ( moving the motor back as far as possible?)

please let some secrets slip out
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:11 PM
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Nitrous on a progressive controller will help with traction at launch and then give more power up top.

My mastermind hits with a 100HP shot around 2750rpms and has a linear ramp to 200HP at 5500rpms, holds to shift at 7K. If I had to use a normal single stage I would top out at 125hp tops with my old 295s.

Build a 450-500HP 383 or 400 SBC, hit it with a progressive N2O shot to 200HP, and add some 335 DOT tires. Should get you in the tens and still drive okay off the juice around town.

There are plenty of vipers and vettes running in the high tens with street tires. And that's pretty much stock with just a bottle of juice.

Here's a stock Z06 on stock run flat tires going 10.98 with no mods.
http://www.autoblog.com/2007/12/05/1...-z06-on-run-fl
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:23 AM
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Here in the states, the cheapest widely available way to a 10sec car is a lightweight Mazda RX-7 with a small block Chevy V8 topped off with a 150 shot of n2o. No need for expensive chassis modifications. There have been 10sec V8 powered RX-7's built for under $2500, including the price of the car.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aisr
Here in the states, the cheapest widely available way to a 10sec car is a lightweight Mazda RX-7 with a small block Chevy V8 topped off with a 150 shot of n2o. No need for expensive chassis modifications. There have been 10sec V8 powered RX-7's built for under $2500, including the price of the car.
I love this idea..!! too bad RX7's are expensive here, but there are plenty of small jap cars that could do the same, probably a Datsun 120Y ?
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:35 AM
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Is a 25 year old car is still expensive there?

Even if it is, there is still a good chance that the Mazda RX-7 would be less expensive overall. The thing about the RX-7 is that the chassis can handle the V8 without expensive modifications. Here's a few points in favor of the RX-7...

1- The rotary engine's eccentric shaft centerline is up in the middle of the engine, not down in the bottom like the V8. The result is that the transmission behind a rotary sits a lot higher, and requires a much larger transmission tunnel...install a Chevy V8 and most any common choice of manual or automatic trans can be used, even the big 'ol T56 6 spd, without beating out the tunnel.

2- The '83-'88 RX-7 limited slip differential is a 4 pinion clutch style that looks like a scaled down Dana Powerloc. Very strong design, factory ratios were 3.90 or 4.10, perfect for the drag strip. There have been people running slicks getting into the mid/low 9's in the 1/4mi on the stock diff.

3- The RX-7 was Mazda's flagship sports car, and is very well designed. Very competitive on road courses and auto crosses, and works great at the dragstrip too. It even has subframe connectors right from the factory. The only upgrade needed is the addition of a $15 pinion snubber to the '86-'91 RX-7 to take the load off of it's front diff mount.

4- The RX-7 is light and well balanced. The rotary engine had little torque, so the cars needed to be light to be quick. Body panels are very thin, and the cars make good use of aluminum and plastic where practical. A typical V8 swapped RX-7 is under 2800lbs and came with a 50/50 front/rear balance right from the factory. Adding an iron block V8 only requires moving the battery to the back to regain the factory's 50/50 balance.

5- The RX-7's stock body dimensions allow fitting tires as large as a 275/60-15 in the rear without modification. The '86-up cars were also available with a 5 lug on 4-1/2" lug pattern, which is very common and allows for almost unlimited wheel choices.

6- No need for brake upgrades when swapping to a V8, as most came equipped w/ 4 wheel disc brakes and featured cooling ducts built into the nose of the car. The GXL and Turbo II cars even came from the factory with 4 piston calipers.

7- Even a carbureted V8 can easily get better fuel mileage than the rotary engine.

Considering the above, I don't know of any small car more ready for a V8 transplant than the Mazda RX-7....

....It's almost as if they were designed for it.

.

Last edited by aisr; 11-09-2011 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:18 AM
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my friend, you made me confirm what I've been suspecting from a long time ago: I was born in the wrong side of the planet.

would you believe that over here a beated up 1975 ford granada runs for about $ 3.800 ? a 1988 suzuki forsa (aka geo metro ) $ 7.000, a 1992 corolla $ 12.000...

cars here are almost like real state. and we can not import used cars from usa

if I ever get an RX7, you bet I'll install a SBC in there, thanks for the tip.
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