[fumplet]

Hello I need the specs because I just put front struts on my car......oh man that helped.......but it would be wonderful to have the specs...........I couldnt take it any longer the dam car was bottoming out so bad I got tired of it.........of course my fact filled haynes manual writers played paper rock scissors and decided to leave out the specs

[powerrodsmike]

my not much better chiltons manual calls for

caster : 2 1/2* - 3 1/2* positive (preferred is 3*)

camber: 5/16* N - 11/16 P (preferred is 3/16* P)

toe in: 0"

steering axis inclination: 1/2* positive

Now all you need to do is figure out how to measure all that stuff

Later, mikey

[1931 steve]

Your best bet is to take it to a alignment shop and have it professionally done.
Just my .02

Steve

[powerrodsmike]

C'mon steve you're taking the fun out of it.

A resourceful fellow could spend an entire weekend trying to measure that stuff and THEN take it to an alignment shop to make it right.

Don't ask me how I know that

Mikey

[1931 steve]

Exactly

Steve

[fumplet]

Originally Posted by 1931 steve

Your best bet is to take it to a alignment shop and have it professionally done.
Just my .02

Steve

yes I understand that........but I just was checking so I could get it close till I could afford it........the whole idea is I dont have loads of money.......so I will ball park it until I do have the money....I thought the toe was zero and a little bit of positive camber. but I just needed the toe for non shredding tires........its cool..you guys can drop 5 grand on big motors and other stuff, I am just tryin to get by with out damage to this or that.......just gonna string the toe and let it go........till I get the money to have it done right

[powerrodsmike]

Sorry fumplet- I NEVER cut someone down for trying to do it themselves OR for having no money. Not intentionally, anyway.

I found out the same way as you that there is no accurate way for a guy with out an alignment rack to get all those suspension angles within spec.

You gotta do what you have to to get by.

later, mikey

[fumplet]

yep I understand..............I just couldnt take the bottoming out and it was really bad.......mcdonalds entrance or any other drive way deposited the underside of the car.........freeway yielded bad wandering.......dangerous........well.........the vibration at 40 low rpm....has got better because of the front struts............and now I can feel the cause more.........when the car rpm drops the lowest.............low and behold the engine misses not steadily.....well now I can really feel it......not a steady miss.........but before the new struts, all I could feel was the front end oscillating sorta continuous..........soooooooowhen I have the money for the rear struts and get those put on..........its time to figure out or just scan it/scope it.......ask the crystal ball ect ........what evers best for the engine miss..........as it is one.............I ran the piss out of it the other day, got it real hot.........then I was able to tell in drive at a stop sign.....ah ha..........intermittent miss!!!........

[matt167]

you could use a castor/ camber gauge for the castor/ camber adjustments. add 1/4* of extra positive camber to the left side to compensate for road crown. if you get camber wrong, it will pull the side with the most positive camber, if you get the castor wrong you can get a pull to a side if it's unequal, if it's wrong but equal you will not get steering wheel return to center, or return viloneltly. there is no way to check toe without a rack, the old tape measure between front and rear of tires back yard trick is way off, you won't have a pull, but within a week you'll need tires. not to mention checking the thrust angle. adjust camber, then castor and last toe. you will need a 4whl allignment if your rear end is fully indipendent, but I do happen to know that they are semi indipendent and would not have to have a 4whl allignment