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Old 04-19-2009, 10:35 PM
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I need a clue,

hey guys I am new here and have a few questions.I've read a lot of post but would like some clarity on some things.First my vehicles have some good scratches all over them.bc cc.2004 f150, 2002 lesabre.my dog HAD a habit of jumping up on them.I read on the internet that the porter cable 7424 was the bomb when it came to polishing, so i bought one.Along with the 3 meguiar pads yellow-polish red-cutting peach-finish.Also purchased 3M finesse, meguiars ultmate compound,scratch x 2.0, clay bars and lube, mirror glaze pure polish, nxt meguiars wax. Also a video but the guy started with a show car that had nothing more then swirlmarks (wasted $20)The problem is it seems like i'm working my butt off trying to get scratches out of my truck.Though i get out swirls,cobwebs and some hair like scratches, i cant get a majority of them.they are not to the paint.I read someone mentioned a real buffer not orbital. they mean a DA?and why?i thought mine was good.Also my pad are turning to mush in the center it looks like.i'll list questions
1. why not orbital, why DA?(i do have a nice compressor)
2. Which pads are best? brand waffle ? for cutting?
3 Which product? for heavy cutting then medium then light, i saw some 3 stage Pinnacle X treme.
4.Getting off wax i have terry bonnet and a shaggy wool .which one is better?
I spent 9 hours today on my truck and though it looks like a mirror, get within a few feet and i can see those scratches.
i've pieced together post and came up with this. Wet sand with a 1000 then 2000-2500 then Abralon 4000 pads on a DA, then use all the crap i bought(3m finesse, deep pure polish or glaze then wax.) is this a good plan?

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Old 04-23-2009, 08:01 AM
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You are trying to start too far down the polishing food chain. You need to start sanding the scratches to level them, then finer sand paper to remove those scratches, compound th remove those and so on down to the final polish. Problem will be if you have enough clear to support the necessary 'rough' sanding. If you are determined to get rid of the scratches (you did get rid of the dog didn't you?), may have to go to a new clear coat on the car if they are bad enough.

Try one scratch starting GENTLY w/ 1000grit wet or dry, ONLY enough to level the scratch. Couple light strokes of the paper, dry the area and see if the scratch is gone. This will be a very fine balancing act of removing the damage but not sanding thru the clear coat. The go over it w/ 1500 then 2000, then start the polishing sequence.

The other alternative is to buy some of Billy Mays' miracle co-polymer that magically eliminates scratches on any color, only $19.95 . . . BUT WAIT!, if you call now they will double the offer, a $1,500 value, but only if you call before the 2,345,949,745th caller.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:00 AM
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Don't confuse a polisher or a DA with a buffer.
A polisher is very low in aggressivnes, mainly for
swirls and haze left with a buffer.
It can spin or orbit. Orbital is the least aggressive.

A DA is way more aggressive and shouldn't be used for buffing at all.
It's made for sanding and spins way to fast.
Some may make it work, but that's not what it's designed for.

A buffer spins and doesn't orbit, there are a few exceptions.
A buffer works at a lower RPM, usually 1000 to 2500.
It's made just for buffing and is way more aggressive than a polisher
that spins slower and orbits.
you can adjust the speed and compounds/pads combo to get the
aggressivness you want. All the way down to polishing.
But even with a buffer, any scratches that are deep enoigh to feel
with your fingernail need to be leveled with sanding first.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:05 PM
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wow

Sounds like i might possibly screw my truck up, better leave it alone, but this Billy Mays stuff sounds great!
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:04 AM
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porter cable 7424

I use my porter cable and 3m Heavy duty compound(with meguiar yellow polish pad),I could use it for an hour on a small scratch and still see it.It seems to me that the head really doesnt turn.Its like its nothing more than a big palm sander.I am wondering if i used a machine that actually spun if i could remove the scratches easier without wreaking too much havoc.I was doing my friends truck which is really scratched up from going through the woods.I think maybe i am expecting too much.I have a bunch of product that doecnt seem very aggressive. Scratch x, 3m finesse,3m heavy,meguiars ultimate compound. I guess I would like to know if your vehicle was full of scratches that dont appear to be into the paint, what would you use.Would you actually hand sand the whole thing first?or set up a low rpm machine with some 2000 grit pads.I tried the sandpaper and with water by hand and it worked to some extent but i think it would take me a week solid to do the entire vehicle.
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Old 05-10-2009, 01:12 PM
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You have a waxing machine not a polisher. Those are about as worthless as zipper on Slick Willie's trousers. A Polisher is like a 7" grinder but with a variable speed trigger so you can be as gentle or aggressive as you wish. That being said, you don't want to take out a scratch with a buffer. Sand it first with as fine a paper as possible and still get it to disappear, then polish out the sanding marks with the buffer. Actually, for a typical small, light scratch, you can do a perfectly good job by hand. Sand the scratch w/ 1000, 1500, 2000, then hand buff with compound and a soft cloth. The machines only come into play when you have a few acres to polish and you want to get it done by next Mother's day.
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