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Old 08-08-2012, 08:42 AM
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I need an expert opinion

I have a 68 mustang with a 289 that's been bored .030 over with forged internals all balanced, the deck has been trimmed down .01, Holley 570 street avenger, edelbrock rpm air gap intake, hooker super comp headers, a c4 with a Hughes 2200 stall converter and am in the process of putting a 3.40 gear in the rear end. I plan for this car to be a street strip car, something very street able but something I won't be ashamed of at the track.
70% street , 30% track

The suspension is completely redone along with all new steering components.

The real question starts now, what would be the best head and cam combo because what I have now is no where near matching each other or my stall. I want heads that'll fit with my intake and be in its powerband range and also fit my headers and I need a cam that will match with the heads and the stall I have.

Right now the heads and cam don't match, the heads are over ported and leaving no velocity, the cam is a pbm can that I know nothing about othe than .498 lift, and the valves and rocker arms are stock.

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Old 08-08-2012, 09:40 AM
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289 buzz bomb

The question here that begs to be asked is what kind of track time do you want to run?
The lower the ET the harder your gona havta buzz this short stroke little mill.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookedup12 View Post
I have a 68 mustang with a 289 that's been bored .030 over with forged internals all balanced, the deck has been trimmed down .01, Holley 570 street avenger, edelbrock rpm air gap intake, hooker super comp headers, a c4 with a Hughes 2200 stall converter and am in the process of putting a 3.40 gear in the rear end. I plan for this car to be a street strip car, something very street able but something I won't be ashamed of at the track.
70% street , 30% track

The suspension is completely redone along with all new steering components.

The real question starts now, what would be the best head and cam combo because what I have now is no where near matching each other or my stall. I want heads that'll fit with my intake and be in its powerband range and also fit my headers and I need a cam that will match with the heads and the stall I have.

Right now the heads and cam don't match, the heads are over ported and leaving no velocity, the cam is a pbm can that I know nothing about othe than .498 lift, and the valves and rocker arms are stock.
A buddy of mine has a 302 with a 100k+ mile stock bottom end with a Ford Racing roller cam (E40?.. its apparently a popular roller cam for a sbf) and a set of GT40 heads with a weiand stealth intake and carb and runs really good. Its in an 80s foxbody with a T5. Last weekend he was running mid 14s at 97 mph with no tuning on the carb or dist with a bad bog off of the line (next weekends project).

Whats your budget look like? If its not a lot go pull a set of gt40 heads off of an exploder from the yard and have them rebuilt and throw in a roller cam to match the heads and intentions of the car.

Otherwise there are plenty of aftermarket aluminum heads available for a sbf.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:11 AM
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you have to rev a 302 to make power,you will need more gear than 340 to go quickly.with out over drive you wont want to drive it very far if you put more gear to it,,,
theres a hole in the bucket,,,
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:56 AM
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I mean there's gotta be a way to go fast without overdrive I understand it won't be the fastest but I will build another motor to race. All my friends have cruiser motors and trannys and race motors and trannys and what ever they do they just switch out.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:06 PM
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NOs/super charger/turbo
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:14 PM
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Ahhh how could I forget tr most important things. The only replacement for displacement. I bet this little motor would love some boost
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:24 PM
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figure out how fast you want to go first. Its hard to say okay i am gonna need x amount of hp because I want to go y speed. Have you raced cars before. Are you happy running low 14s maybe high 13s? If so you should be able to do it with the current bottom end you have. You just have to work on the top end. My buddy doesn't spin his motor over 6000 and is running good times for what it is. Like others have said if you really want to get that thing moving you are gonna need more cubes or maybe a power adder.
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:52 PM
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High 13s are fine right now until I do more but what is a good head and cam combo that will give me some good power. I don't mind turning this motor 6500 or so just don't wanna screw it up with this crappy cam and heads that are on right now.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:08 PM
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210542-08 NA 258 264 230 236 .561 .574 108 104 .018 .018 1,16
1800-5600 Hot Street/Mild Strip. Good mid range torque & power. 2000+ stall. a cam like this or one or 2 sizes up or down,depending on your choice.
650 double pumper holley,good intake. rethink those 3.4 gears,maybe 4.3?up or down 1 ratio.13s in a small engine requires gears and RPM
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookedup12 View Post
High 13s are fine right now until I do more but what is a good head and cam combo that will give me some good power. I don't mind turning this motor 6500 or so just don't wanna screw it up with this crappy cam and heads that are on right now.
Go get some gt40 heads from an exploder. Do a google search on how to identify them and what years got them.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
210542-08 NA 258 264 230 236 .561 .574 108 104 .018 .018 1,16
1800-5600 Hot Street/Mild Strip. Good mid range torque & power. 2000+ stall. a cam like this or one or 2 sizes up or down,depending on your choice.
650 double pumper holley,good intake. rethink those 3.4 gears,maybe 4.3?up or down 1 ratio.13s in a small engine requires gears and RPM
Could you brake some of those numbers down for me bud
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:13 PM
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258 and 264 are the advertised intake and exhaust duration. 230/236 is duration @ 050 valve lift.
.561/.574 is the gross valve lift,not counting what you lose due to valve lash.108 is lobe ceparation angle and 104 is the intake love center line,,,.018 is the feeler guage size for valve lash,,1800 to 5600 is the RPM range of the cam
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:17 PM
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for comparison
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 284/292
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 241/249
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .525/.546
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2500-6600
similar on paper,,,but,,,very rough idle
spend the extra money and get a small solid roller and have a nice idle and more power
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
258 and 264 are the advertised intake and exhaust duration. 230/236 is duration @ 050 valve lift.
.561/.574 is the gross valve lift,not counting what you lose due to valve lash.108 is lobe ceparation angle and 104 is the intake love center line,,,.018 is the feeler guage size for valve lash,,1800 to 5600 is the RPM range of the cam
Why are you recommending a solid cam for a 70% street vehicle that's only planning on running 13s at the track? A hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller could do just as good with out the hassles of running a solid tappet
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