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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0pyders
one of the valve cover bolts snapped off and also 2 easy outs snapped off in there too, should I just drill this to a nice circle and tap it?:


Also this thing (sorry don't know what it's called) is bent as you can see, is that easy to replace? :

I would rather take this all to a shop but I really want to keep this as cheap as possible. please don't make fun of me lol I just want to do the right thing.
If you live with in range of a shop that repairs tools and or aircraft, there should be someone that has an electric arc sputtering machine that's used to burn stuff like this out and leave a decent or at least repairable hole behind. This isn't too expensive to have done.

The thing that got bent is an oil shield which is there to keep excess oil off the valve stem where it will be drawn into the port thru the guide clearance. These are easily replaced by the same process that disassembles the valve spring retention system.

Bogie

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by junior stocker
Blast it out with an Oxy-Acet torch (the broken bolt/easy out combo). And WHY do they call them "easy outs" when this sort of thing always seem to happen; they should call them easy-oh crap!, or something similar.
I'll bet you a dollar it was made in CHINA!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sqzbox
I'll bet you a dollar it was made in CHINA!
the spiral ones are crap but the squared ones from craftsman have been good to me. the reason that squared style one broke off was because I was being hasty and broke it while hammering it in crooked
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 07:03 PM
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broken valve cover bolt

Next time you might also try once the sq. easy-out is started good, use an adjustable wrench tight and down as close to the bolt surface as possible and tap in the ez-out as you turn on it really easy.
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Old 01-10-2011, 07:46 PM
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Skip EZ outs,, Use left handed drills.


To get that thing out as cheap as possible... Hmm unless you know a friend in the tool and die field with some really good drills not going to happen.

My recommendation, weld a side to it drill and tap for a #4 or #6 machine screw. Or as suggested glue it down.


Last thought Ghetto Vortec heads, drill a center bolt hole and make center bolt valve covers, totally worthless... advice, Don't waste money on an EDM find a decent machine shop they'll probably charge 40-65 bucks.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:03 PM
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I wanna thank all of you guys for giving me some info on handling this and I think I'm just going to let the shop handle this considering it's not going to be a big job (hopefully) and I'll probably just make it worse. Thanks again you guys.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 0pyders
I wanna thank all of you guys for giving me some info on handling this and I think I'm just going to let the shop handle this considering it's not going to be a big job (hopefully) and I'll probably just make it worse. Thanks again you guys.
Try looking into another set of stock heads from a machine shop. Used to be they'd have a stock set alredy to go with a new valve job, guides, magna fluxed, ready for intall and you could get a discount by trading in the heads you have. It's been a long time since I did that but I got a pair for 50 bucks a head by trading in the old ones for a core. Just a thought.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
Try looking into another set of stock heads from a machine shop. Used to be they'd have a stock set alredy to go with a new valve job, guides, magna fluxed, ready for intall and you could get a discount by trading in the heads you have. It's been a long time since I did that but I got a pair for 50 bucks a head by trading in the old ones for a core. Just a thought.
Thank you I'll see what they say.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2011, 06:51 PM
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They said that it'd be like 100 bucks to replace the oil shield and fix the valve cover hole. Since it has 2 easy outs in the hole they need to heat it out or something then weld it up and make a new hole. Does that sound like a fair price? I heard somewhere that it's bad to weld on cast iron??

Last edited by 0pyders; 01-12-2011 at 06:59 PM.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2011, 07:28 PM
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I would just silicone the valve cover before I paid them that much to fix it.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2011, 09:27 PM
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just build some kind of tab off of the intake manifold bolt to hold it down
with some extra goop

ok,ok just pay the man
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2011, 09:40 PM
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[QUOTE=matts37chev]just build some kind of tab off of the intake manifold bolt to hold it down
with some extra goop QUOTE]
Same here.

I'd ask you this, Is the head casting anything special, worth a $100 fix, or just a smog head??
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2011, 09:53 PM
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the head is a 305 061 casting.

Theyre the only ones that I have and I don't really want to go out and get a different pair (unless I have too..)

the block is a 350 010 block. Will I have any detonation problems you think using a 305 head? The pistons are dish styled and I don't plan on ever taking it above 5000 rpms. Really the only thing I care about is getting the car moving and doing it the right way.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2011, 07:15 PM
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you will have to provide a lot more info to determine detonation issues or not.
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