theres nothing wrong with feeling safe it'll cost much more and probably work just fine for you.this is just and option for 15.00 buy some treat a hood leave it outside in the weather but by all means if you feel safe with ppg use it,it'll work ,did you know that 2k sticks to bare metal just fine without epoxy it sands and feathers nice too?but I use epoxy because its better.BUT never touch bare metal with bare hands it'll start instantly rusting even under primer always handle bare metal with gloves and dont lean on your bare metal car with a sweaty tee shirt water and salt and oils dont mix well with metal or paint heres part of one of my experiments ,I laid my hand on bare metal and this is the next day ,imagine if I primed this before I left ..It'll still keep on rusting under the primer ,even epoxy,so wear the gloves no matter what proceedure youse use....it'llrustalot and you'll repaintalot.....oops and a shot of treated bare metal after four months bare with ospho

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phosphoric acid is nothing new . the first time i used it was 1967 on a 49 merc so i know a little about it. enough not to recommend it to a novice who may or may not get it neutralized . just like soda it can be done with success and it can also destroy 6 years of work and a ton of money in this case. you can talk to any paint tech from any manufacture and they will tell you the same thing about acid or soda. wonder why ? surface rust is no big deal . you can scuff it off and epoxy over it. it will not continue to rust as the epoxy will seal it.
money spent on blasting a car is well spent. first you get rid of the rust and paint. second you have an anchor pattern for the epoxy. in several days you have the car ready for the shop to start on and it is protected. 2k primer over metal is not a recommended process as it is porous and does not seal the metal from moisture . always epoxy first. the fewer chemicals and solvents you use in a job the better. it is important that they all be compatible.
true this is my opinion and is worth what you paid for it. but it is backed up by over 40 years in the custom refinishing business . my work speaks for it's self .

what is done to the car in question needs to be decided by the owner and the man who will have to warranty the job. it is their wallet that will suffer in the event of a failure.

Neutalize it? it dries you dont neutalize it,are we talking about Ospho? Its so ez to use a dummy like me can use it.other than that.....WE finaly agree on something and your work DOES speak for itself Shine, you do fantastic work and care about quality enough to do it all yourself too.Thats why I speak so highly of you (behind your back) to anyone that wants to restore a vette your the best I've seen. oh yeah and we agree on the best materials to use too(except this one) that "I" swear by,But like you I wont budge an inch on this one (ospho, not acid) there is a differance....its compatible with everything.I've even had good success with laquer primer over it in my little experments ,not that I'd do it but it can be done it makes all the primers stick like crazy.in fact it is a primer when it dries...I'm not tring to change anyones mind or push it on anyone just trying to seperate fact from fiction.I hope I've succeded...the choice's are the owners responsibility but an informed choice is always best there are many many options based on the budget to get the best bang for the buck but its my understanding that 90% of the guys here are working stiffs and simply cant afford the very best and thats why they choose to do it themselves plus the love of the work ,but I use this on EVERY car I strip no matter how much I'm getting for the job....And dont get the impression I'm trying to kiss yerass,that'll NEVER happen,just calling it like I see it,and trying to approch this issue like a professional with the limited typing and puntuation skills I have.(something else i'm working on)

Been reading this with interest. What is the difference between Ospho and Phosphoric Acid? It is my understanding that is the main ingredient of Ospho.

Shine, could you please describe the correct method for using Phosphoric Acid? How to apply and how to remove (before or after drying.. do you use water or wax/grease remover). Do you scrub it into the rust or do you leave it sit and come back later?

Do you need to scrub off the layer of iron phosphate and then reapply?

Lots to know about PA and I can't seem to find a defenitive answer on its use.

Thanks

Tim

it would just turn into another argument. i suggest you read this thread by randy fegunson. he is by far the most knowlegeable person on this site to ask. if it's metal ask randy , if it's paint ask barry. there is just too much bs info going around on here. if you need to ask me a question by all means send me an email and i'll try to help. with that said i'll just say i dont do rust conversions and leave it at that. i remove it.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sec...ht=rust+removal

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Tim

and if its about "ospho" ask me ...25 yrs using it...35 yrs painting in the rust belt...(east coast) I wont strip a car and NOT use it,on a high dollar car I use it twice.....Pm me Ill give you my number. and the paint and epoxy primer expert is BarryK. also a hotrodder member... the differance is...Ospho is a primer....phosphric acid is not!!! it is also the main ingredient in etching primer....

Spritz on a thin coat of *Rustmort for now so you can relax.
Use google " Rustmort / milo"..

Then as the others have said 80 then 180 grit and one panel a day..

Beware of long winded post that go in circles ..

keep it a hobby

tried it... dont like it...not the same I.M.H.O. YES definatly keep it a hobbie....you end up like us...old farts...

I was looking for the popcorn eating emoticons but they apparently don't live on this board.
David

From the Ospho website

When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. A paint job will last longer after an application of OSPHO because subsequent paint coating securely attaches itself so that moisture and oxygen normally do not attack the metal. OSPHO is water-thin, can cover a larger area than paint, and goes on easily. It is equally effective for exterior and interior work alike. SKYCO OSPHO: a balanced formula of Phosphoric, Dichromate, Wetting Agents and Extenders . . . compounded exclusively by the Skybryte Company since 1947 ... recommended by paint manufacturers.
David

Thanks dd,finaly someone's listening and doing there homework.You'll go far now you've taught me something....how'd you find that? I'm so green on computor ,its embarrising,,,6months

That's a great thread. After reading all the rust wiki and many other rust opinions........that's what I have decided to do with the pits and veins left after knocking off the rough stuff with 40 grit.
David

Just Googled Ospho.
David

I like the ones who know everything

http://msds.ihs.com/partinfo.aspx?partid=38949

takes what it takes ...