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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:50 AM
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check metal temp . air temp means little if the metal is 45 degrees. don't be afraid of sags. easier to fix than a panel full of peel. put a light at each corner so you can see the pattern. overlap 50-75% .

and until someone has used a top shelf gun they have no idea what painting is all about. there are no overpriced guns but there damn sure is some junk being sold that you couldn't give me .

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 09:22 AM
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just saying i cant see paying for an iwata airbrush (Japan) for 350 or whatever price or a sata spray gun most stuff is inported anyway. not like it was back in the good ol days. if it was made over seas it was junk. its like when u first get your CDL they let you drive the ****tist truck in the yard if you can operate that one you can operate any of them
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:32 AM
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why try to learn with a pos then have to learn all over again with a real gun. those guns are cheap for a reason and none of them perform. they waste materials , cause all kinds of problems and failures. there's more to it than just spraying it on the car.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
why try to learn with a pos then have to learn all over again with a real gun. those guns are cheap for a reason and none of them perform. they waste materials , cause all kinds of problems and failures. there's more to it than just spraying it on the car.
X100
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:55 AM
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did he ever mention what kinda clear he is trying to spray?
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Old 12-04-2010, 12:38 PM
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Everyone likes to respond to someone who says "by a good top gun" with "i dont have the money for a good gun". Balogna...The money you have wasted in materials by using one of these cheap guns is far more than what you would spend on a good gun. You dont have to go out and buy a $700 sata. There are guns out there in the 400-500 range. I've heard some good words about the devilbiss tekna gun. Its around $430. I use the iwata 300 for small parts and small all overs. Works very well and right at $400. Most of these guns you can get cheaper at your local jobber.

At 40-50 psi on these cheap guns...the material is either just hitting the floor or getting sucked out the fan.
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:56 PM
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...it's not the gun ,,, its never the gun...

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 05:34 PM
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 05:26 AM
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:11 AM
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sure it is . an inexperienced painter needs all the help he can get. trying to paint with a 30 dollar gun is going to do nothing but frustrate him. excessive material use , excessive film build resulting in solvent pop or delamination . horrible orange peel or sags. every post here about them is about problems they are having.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:55 AM
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All this talk about guns cracks me up! This is why I said I didn't want to purchase a $7-800-900 dollar "what ever" Sata. I know the SATA is the Sh$!, But If I was to spend that, it would only be because I'm using it on a money making daily work environment. Not when I'm just a guy spraying his rods in shop, so please keep that in mind. The Sharp Compliant HVLP, retailed for around $300. Though not expensive in the grand scheme of things with spray guns, it's not exactly a Harbor Freight special either. The tips for this gun are in excess of $80, and the one I have actually came with a 1.3 and 1.4 tip kit. I worked in a body shop for a number of years, but the owner and the son, were the only people spraying, so I never got the opportunity to learn the proper techniques. I was just the guy doing all the work! Tear down, body work, prep for spraying, and reassembly. They showed up, sprayed, and left. Nice situation for them huh? My situation currently, is purely a lack of experience, that's it.
Fastang: I'm going to try your recommendations, I'm going by the directions with my air pressure, which is "WAY" lower than what your saying. It's saying 10 PSI at the tip which is only about 20 at the gauge. This may be one major problem with my system! So, I'll give it a shot! Plus, I'm using an activator system, not a hardner/reducer system. Now I've also read that some guys actually like to run reducers in the mix even though it's not necessary? Personal opinion?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 11:26 AM
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long way from a pos hf gun to a sharpe . all i can tell you is the lower quality of a gun makes it more difficult to shoot with. the more waste you'll have and most likely the more work to get it right. when doing your own you are saving a lot. i dont think 200-300 is too much to spend on a gun even if you just do your own. paint guns are tools just like anything else. now i actually buy viper guns at northern tools to shoot epoxy with. 2.3 tip and at 44 bucks i can throw it away and get a new one with each job. my good guns have saved me enough in clear alone to pay for themselves.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frodin1
All this talk about guns cracks me up! This is why I said I didn't want to purchase a $7-800-900 dollar "what ever" Sata. I know the SATA is the Sh$!, But If I was to spend that, it would only be because I'm using it on a money making daily work environment. Not when I'm just a guy spraying his rods in shop, so please keep that in mind. The Sharp Compliant HVLP, retailed for around $300. Though not expensive in the grand scheme of things with spray guns, it's not exactly a Harbor Freight special either. The tips for this gun are in excess of $80, and the one I have actually came with a 1.3 and 1.4 tip kit. I worked in a body shop for a number of years, but the owner and the son, were the only people spraying, so I never got the opportunity to learn the proper techniques. I was just the guy doing all the work! Tear down, body work, prep for spraying, and reassembly. They showed up, sprayed, and left. Nice situation for them huh? My situation currently, is purely a lack of experience, that's it.
Fastang: I'm going to try your recommendations, I'm going by the directions with my air pressure, which is "WAY" lower than what your saying. It's saying 10 PSI at the tip which is only about 20 at the gauge. This may be one major problem with my system! So, I'll give it a shot! Plus, I'm using an activator system, not a hardner/reducer system. Now I've also read that some guys actually like to run reducers in the mix even though it's not necessary? Personal opinion?
Forget about the 10lbs at the cap, you can't even measure that without a special cap. What does the GUN say for "Maximum inlet pressure"?

Brian
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 12:26 PM
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Here's the link:
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Files/JM4JJM4K/$File/310585E.pdf?OpenElement
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 02:39 PM
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When spraying with an HVLP gun air VOLUME (the V in HVLP) needs to be HIGH (the H in HVLP) to make up for the Low Pressure (the L and P in HVLP).

That gun requires 13.5 CFM at 30 psi at the inlet to acheave the 10 lbs at the cap for proper atomization.

Sooooooo, do you have an air source capible of 13.5 CFM?

Brian
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