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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 05:35 PM
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I use an Iwata LPH 400... it works great, and alot better than the cheapo depo guns that I have. Besides, Clear coat rarely lays down as slick as say... a custom Sand and Buff job.

The only time I can get clear to lay down extremely slick, and Mirror shine like a Sand and buff is if I let the first coat of clear cure, then sand it with 800-1500 then shoot another coat of clear. It looks simply amazing, just make sure you don't get any trash on it or you'll have to buff anyways. Of course you need to be careful if you do this, because some clears are extremely sensitive if you don't follow the instructions.

Anyways I'd opt to play it safe, not worry about orange peel... and just sand and buff it. Indeed I hope you know what sanding and buffing is already.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 05:57 PM
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Yea, I managed to get my hood looking pretty good. I let it sit for a few days, and started with 600, jumped to 1200, then to 2000."Its all I had" Then hit it with some Evercoat heavy "on a foam pad" I worry about wool burning through. Then glazed it and it's looking really nice. There's some small sanding scratches in it still , but I think if I would've spent a little more time on the sanding, with the fine stuff, or maybe even gotten 1000 grit in the mix, it would've been better. Way better then the orange peel look.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
When spraying with an HVLP gun air VOLUME (the V in HVLP) needs to be HIGH (the H in HVLP) to make up for the Low Pressure (the L and P in HVLP).

That gun requires 13.5 CFM at 30 psi at the inlet to acheave the 10 lbs at the cap for proper atomization.

Sooooooo, do you have an air source capible of 13.5 CFM?

Brian
What a lot of folks forget when using certain HVLP's. Like a SATA NR2000, it is an air hog! Requires 15 cfm...whereas the iwata lph400 requires 9.5 cfm. both hvlps. which is why the iwata is preffered by most hobbyists (and pros) doing it a home with a smaller compressor. Requires about the same cfm as the big sata rps with less air pressure.

So if you are at home with a smaller compressor...that is only capable of 14cfm and you are using a gun that is right at that or requires more.....then yes it IS the gun. OR the compressor...however you want to look at it.

Like shine said...it is much more than hooking up the gun and going to town...but that doesn't make it extremely complicated....
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 06:55 PM
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Practice makes perfect I guess. I'll keep playing with and try all these tips, then see what happens. I'm going to probably shoot the rest here in the next day or so, "WEATHER PERMITTING"! Oh, I've got a 60 Gallon Speedaire, with a Eaton Head unit rated for continuous operation. It keeps up just fine with the DA or Die grinder. I've got Iwata air brushes and absolutely love them. So I am a believer in quality tools, but when the budget allows it. Thanks for all the input, and I'll let you guys know how the tricks worked out.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bolt-on
I use an Iwata LPH 400... it works great, and alot better than the cheapo depo guns that I have. Besides, Clear coat rarely lays down as slick as say... a custom Sand and Buff job.

The only time I can get clear to lay down extremely slick, and Mirror shine like a Sand and buff is if I let the first coat of clear cure, then sand it with 800-1500 then shoot another coat of clear. It looks simply amazing, just make sure you don't get any trash on it or you'll have to buff anyways. Of course you need to be careful if you do this, because some clears are extremely sensitive if you don't follow the instructions.

Anyways I'd opt to play it safe, not worry about orange peel... and just sand and buff it. Indeed I hope you know what sanding and buffing is already.
I beg to differ on this one. I bought some of Barry K's Universal clear, I don't sand and buff any more and wow does the clear shine. If I'm doing anything that requires clear, I use the Southern Polyurethane universal clear, it's the bomb. I'm getting pretty close with my Sata 3000RP Digital with single stage to not having to cut and rub wither. In my case, the gun made a big difference along with what I've learned from here, Brian Martin, Milo and SPI's websites.
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
I beg to differ on this one. I bought some of Barry K's Universal clear, I don't sand and buff any more and wow does the clear shine. If I'm doing anything that requires clear, I use the Southern Polyurethane universal clear, it's the bomb. I'm getting pretty close with my Sata 3000RP Digital with single stage to not having to cut and rub wither. In my case, the gun made a big difference along with what I've learned from here, Brian Martin, Milo and SPI's websites.

X2 SPI UV clear is the BOMB
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:26 PM
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What's it run? Only problem is, I have limited access to paint supply places here. Kind of frustrating! I usually have to order stuff I can't get local.
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:32 PM
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I Googled it and everyone swears by it, but where can I find it? I don't think my local place carries it? I'll have to check.
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:06 PM
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If you call or email them SouthernPoiyurethanes.com, they'll send you to a local distributor or sell direct to you if there is no distributor local to you. The service is top notch as is the product.
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:00 AM
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One other person on here I've learned a bunch from is Deadbodyman, he's told me several ways to make my plebian tools work as more specialized tools among other autobody tips.
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