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Old 12-03-2010, 05:44 PM
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I Need Some Direction ! Can't Clear!

I am having a hell of a time trying to get my clear coats to lay flat. I dont know what I'm doing wrong, but I don't have any issues with the base colors, or even single stage, just the clear coats. I've read numerous posts on a bunch of sites, some saying to open your gun all the way up and go as quick as possible, to applying a tacky coat first, then putting the clear down a little wetter as you go. All to no avail. I've got a Sharp Compliant Titanium with a 1.4 and 1.3 tips, as well as the Vaper Hvlp Gun kit that is for sale about everywhere. I've tried smaller tips, larger tips, and I still am having issues. Can someone please guide me in the correct direction with my gun setup, so I can try to get this right. When I spray, I can just about tell immediately, that it's not correct. If you needed an orange peel texture on something, I'm the master! What am I doing wrong here? I really don't have the cash to lay out for a $600 dollar gun either.

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Old 12-03-2010, 05:53 PM
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Improper reduction? Too fast a reducer? Air pressure too low?
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:12 PM
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Is everything including car at 70 degrees?
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:04 PM
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I'm using the preprinted measuring cups. mixing 4:1 like the bottle says, and yea, it was over 70 today "but barely". I actually wanted to try it out first on the hood and tailgate, so I shot them inside my shop. I'm just wondering if maybe it's still a little chilly, even though it say'd 70?
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:10 PM
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Put away your reading glasses, there are sites on the web with Videos, www.Sata.com has a good one that can teach you alot about spraying. follow mix directions and pay attention to temp. sometimes a visual aid can slap you upside the head and get you going in the right direction.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:32 PM
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If the material in the can is cold it can affect viscosity as well ...

I took a picture of how I check paint viscosity before it goes in the gun. Touch your stir stick to a nearby vertical surface so some material starts to rundown it.If you watch the speed paint drips down the side a test panel or in this case a paint can, you'll get a reference "benchmark" to know if it needs more or less thinner/reducer. The drip under the paint stick in this picture is just right! The short one needs more thinner/reducer and the long "too fast" one needs more paint...

Clear should run the same speed ..

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Old 12-03-2010, 07:35 PM
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Alright,I'm gonna give that a shot. Plus I'm going to wait til it warms up more, and keep my cans inside. It's getting clod at night, and I don't have heat out there. That makes sense that the product might actually be too cold. Thanks! I'll let you know.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:57 PM
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Sixguns, If you have a link to these videos, that would be helpful. I can't seem to locate them on Sata's site? I went through there advice section, and even did a search, but still no luck.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:20 PM
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sure, click the link in my previous reply, look down about 1/2 page and see "sata tv" I think there are three videos there.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:13 PM
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http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...your%20gun.htm
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:54 PM
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I use slow reducer even in the winter but one of the most important thing is your air presser I have a sata jet 90 and I spray with 65 lb of presser whem spraying clear
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Old 12-04-2010, 12:31 AM
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i would say try more pressure too like the above said

good luck
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:29 AM
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I use the same sharpe T1 titanium gun with 1.4 just for my clears. It lays clear down really nice. Yea i turn psi up between 40 and 50 myself also. All clears act different even the same clear with different hardners. I sprayed alot of cumberland clear and used slow hardnef year round. I also reduced it 20% more than the label said to. It was raelly thick if not reduced this much. Some of your 4:1 clears flow really nice now days without addiing any reducer. I recommend Finish 1 that most napa or carquest stores stock . Also transtar Kwick Gloss does well. These both look slick even on the first coat. I will put 2 to 3 wet coats of finish 1 on rarely have tk buff. If you are doing restorations i would step up in quality to a more high solids clear but for collision work and non show cars i highly recommend finish 1. If the first tack coat is really rough then it is going to be hard to get the 2nd or 3rd coat to flow out enough to get it looking slick. I know thats when i make sags and runs the most when im trying to make my last coat flow out enough because my first coat or 2 was too dry. Sorry for the long post but i hope it helps
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:39 AM
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clear

heres a link http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...your%20gun.htm and sometimes i spray at less then 70 degress and have no problems i dont load the clear on i spray on light coats i spray until i can see the reflextion then stop.. and i dont own a 650.00 spray gun mine is a lowes or homedepot special, maybe someday when im rich instead of so dam looking i can own a overpriced gun its not the gun its how you operate it.... on some small jobs i can spray clear out of my airbrush practice ,practice, practice,
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:39 AM
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clear

heres a link http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...your%20gun.htm and sometimes i spray at less then 70 degress and have no problems i dont load the clear on i spray on light coats i spray until i can see the reflextion then stop.. and i dont own a 650.00 spray gun mine is a lowes or homedepot special, maybe someday when im rich instead of so dam looking i can own a overpriced gun its not the gun its how you operate it.... on some small jobs i can spray clear out of my airbrush practice ,practice, practice,
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