I need some help with my 350 Chevy engine... - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2008, 09:06 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here is the rest of the crank main journal shots.
First pic is #1 main, then #2, #3, #4 and #5

The next (and last post of pics) reply has the assembled crank caps showing the bearing wear in them. For some reason the cap bearings show more wear than the upper block bearings......pg
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	#1 Main Journal (Medium).jpg
Views:	71
Size:	109.0 KB
ID:	31197   Click image for larger version

Name:	#2 Main Journal (Medium).jpg
Views:	64
Size:	97.9 KB
ID:	31198   Click image for larger version

Name:	#3 Main Journal (Medium).jpg
Views:	68
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	31199   Click image for larger version

Name:	#4 Main Journal (Medium).jpg
Views:	75
Size:	83.0 KB
ID:	31200   Click image for larger version

Name:	#5 Main Journal (Medium).jpg
Views:	66
Size:	88.6 KB
ID:	31201  


    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2008, 09:11 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here are the main caps and a couple of other shots.......pg
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Main Caps #1-Bottom... thru... #5-Top (Medium).jpg
Views:	103
Size:	69.0 KB
ID:	31202   Click image for larger version

Name:	#5 Main with Cap Installed (Medium).jpg
Views:	76
Size:	90.1 KB
ID:	31203   Click image for larger version

Name:	Block with All Caps Installed (Medium).jpg
Views:	75
Size:	60.5 KB
ID:	31204   Click image for larger version

Name:	Cam Tunnel_2 (Medium).jpg
Views:	82
Size:	93.3 KB
ID:	31205   Click image for larger version

Name:	Crank Tunnel Looking at #1 Main (Medium).jpg
Views:	79
Size:	82.4 KB
ID:	31206  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:31 AM
n-gin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Parma heights, Ohio
Posts: 148
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That is pretty worn out as I have taken apart engines with 100,000 miles that dont look 1/4 as bad as that looks. Also looks like the belts were over tightened too.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:51 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by n-gin
That is pretty worn out as I have taken apart engines with 100,000 miles that dont look 1/4 as bad as that looks. Also looks like the belts were over tightened too.
You mean the fan belt was too tight?
Hmmm, it has a self tightening serpentine belt on it, so I do not understand what you mean, I guess..........pg
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #50 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:28 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Jmark.....

I sent you a PM regarding who I bought this engine from.......pg
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:59 AM
Jmark's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 61
Posts: 4,900
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 44 Times in 33 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by piniongear
I sent you a PM regarding who I bought this engine from.......pg
Thanks, I'll be stopping by there sometime soon. I know where it is but don't know much about it, but will make a few calls too. It's actually right across the street from the shop that did my other engine about 15 years ago.

And since you did find the receipt and can verify the builder, I see no problem listing his company name for future searches on him. From what i've seen from your engine, it's a dirtbag company, www.fivestarengines.com

here is his BBB sheet.

Mark

Last edited by Jmark; 07-15-2008 at 09:05 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:56 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmark
Thanks, I'll be stopping by there sometime soon. I know where it is but don't know much about it, but will make a few calls too. It's actually right across the street from the shop that did my other engine about 15 years ago.
And since you did find the receipt and can verify the builder, I see no problem listing his company name for future searches on him. From what i've seen from your engine, it's a dirtbag company, www.fivestarengines.com
here is his BBB sheet.
Mark
Thanks Mark.
I did some more looking myself this AM and found some complaints on Ripoff Report regarding Five Star Engines.
I filed a report myself and told it as it is. I cannot blame Five Star since I have 3 years and 15K miles on the engine, but at the same time the engine should last what, 100,000 miles if built properly?

I bought my engine from Chris and he always gave me excellent customer service every time I called him, which was a number of times. So, in all fairness, please tell him that along with the photos of the junk they sold me.

In 2005 I got an email from a stranger who had bought a Five Star 350. His question was....'Have I had any problem with my engine?'
He told me that he and a number of others have engines with serious problems from Five Star.
My reply was that at the time I only had 5K miles on it and had no problem. But, as you may imagine, I did not sleep well for the next few nights until thought of the email was forgotten (somewhat anyways)

I would appreciate hearing how the visit went after you get by there......pg
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:39 AM
T-bucket23's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Engine basic condition - how to check Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 57
Posts: 5,333
Wiki Edits: 26

Thanks: 7
Thanked 142 Times in 126 Posts
It almost looks like something went wrong in their cleaning process that left crap in the oil galleys. The was everything is worn is very strange. Almost looks like something abrasive was floating arround in the engine. I wounder if there cleaning tank somehow got poluted.

That engine looks more like a 200K engine than a 15K engine
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 12:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
It almost looks like something went wrong in their cleaning process that left crap in the oil galleys. The was everything is worn is very strange. Almost looks like something abrasive was floating arround in the engine. I wounder if there cleaning tank somehow got poluted.
That engine looks more like a 200K engine than a 15K engine
I can not agree with you more on the engine condition. What in the world could cause such damage to all of the bearings, yet show no signs of heat anywhere, nor is there, or ever has been, any metal in the oil which is changed along with a filter every 3K miles.
This one has me really puzzled.
I finally got a lead from the husband of a friend of my wife's. He owns and drives a Chevy oval track car and he gave me the name of the automotive machine shop that builds his engines.
I called the shop this morning and described the mess. He said I may want to consider a short block rather than put money into the machine work. He would line bore everything, turn the crank and then I would put it all together.
He said the cost is going to perhaps be the same as a short block.
Maybe, but with a short block I may be right where I am today in a couple of years, since I do not know who built it.
This 1992 van is only the 4th car or truck I have owned since 1965. So that tells you I run them quite a long time.
I will take the block and parts to the machine shop tomorrow and see what he says after looking it over..........pg
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 12:37 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 61
Posts: 4,900
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 44 Times in 33 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
It almost looks like something went wrong in their cleaning process that left crap in the oil galleys. The was everything is worn is very strange. Almost looks like something abrasive was floating arround in the engine. I wounder if there cleaning tank somehow got poluted.

That engine looks more like a 200K engine than a 15K engine
Agreed,,,if you look at the closeup pics of the crank and notice the scoring that seems to start at the cross drilled holes, it's almost like a load of crap came out on startup and scored everything.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 01:15 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 7,023
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 515 Times in 436 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by piniongear
OK, I got the number piston out this morning.
To start with:
I checked the crankshaft end play and it was .015. The book tells me it should be .002 to .006, so that is a negative.
I checked the side clearance of #1 rod and it was .015 gap. Book says .006 to .014, so I am just a little wide on that.

You guys were correct in saying I did not need a reamer. But I used it anyway and one rotation cleaned it to the metal.
Now for some photos:
The first pic is of the insert in the cap. It is stamped .010. Does this tell me the bearing is .010 oversize (that the crank journal has been ground down) .010?

The next two pics are of the rod inserts. They look really worn, considering the engine has only 15K miles on it. Half of the ebarings have copper color showing and the other half have silver showing.
Can anyone give me an idea if the bearings may be bad or not? They look very bad to me, but I hae no experience with this kind of thing.

I will do another post with photos of the piston and bore. Hang tight.....pg
Looking at the rod bearing that's your knock. That's the upper, what does the lower half look like?

.010 is telling you it's a turned undersize crank. What is the surface quality, at 15000 miles it should be smooth if not polished. The journal needs to be consistently circular from end to end as well. I'd expect roughness since it's been eating the bearing and that stuff has been circulating. Telling what is bad machining from damage done by the bearing will be hard to tell apart at this point.

What do the mains look like?

What is the condition of the thrust bearing? And what is the crank's fore and aft clearance on the thrust bearing?

Operation can lead to excessive bearing wear, what I see here is also typical of an engine operating under high loading at low RPMs. The problem that lugging causes is that the load in the bearing is high and the oil flow low. A solution is gearing up so the engine spins faster making more oil flow or installing a high volume pump to get the pressure/flow up at lower RPMs. This talk about 10psi per 1000 RPM is gross generalization more suitable for grocery getters than vehicles that work for a living. This is not an issue of type of oil (synthetic versus mineral) nor to some extent even the weight. It's an issue of putting enough oil thru the bearing to both support the development of the hydrodynamic wedge that floats the bearing above the journal with enough strength that forces on the rods aren't greater which just blows the oil out the clearance, the other is enough oil flow to take the heat out of the bearing and journal. In the latter case the greater the forces in the bearing/journal the higher the local heat being generated. Good oil flow is necessary to take this heat out.

Bogie
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #57 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 01:16 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 61
Posts: 4,900
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 44 Times in 33 Posts
I just called a competator that is in the same area, a machine shop i've used before. I asked him "what do you think about Five Sta* *******", that was as far as I got before he broke into un-controllable laughter! I guess that about says it for me. He'd like to see the pictures too. Guess I can hit 2 shops in one trip!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #58 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 01:51 PM
74chevy454's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 74 Chevy Cheyenne Super Custom Deluxe
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: sac,ca
Age: 40
Posts: 41
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
wow I am eager to hear what the guy says after u go by there, should be interesting.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #59 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 05:54 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 61
Posts: 4,900
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 44 Times in 33 Posts
One last question and opportunity for more pictures! LOL What shape are the cam and cam bearings in? Ok, or trashed lobes too?

Mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #60 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:55 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 46
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmark
One last question and opportunity for more pictures! LOL What shape are the cam and cam bearings in? Ok, or trashed lobes too?

Mark
The cam looks pretty good. The bearings are not worn to the copper like all of the mains and rods.
The lobes look good too, although I am far from an expert. They show some signs of wear.....like I cannot say this is a new cam because you see wear or tracks on the lobes.
There is one lifter that I could not get out however until I removed the cam.
This is also from my old friend cylinder #5.
The bottom of the lifter is concave. Very concave. All the rest of the lifters came out easily and are dead flat across their bottoms.
I don't know if the concave will show, but I will take a photo of it and stick to this post..... (It shows)
The bad lifter base is really fished tailed out. The spread is so great that it would not come out of the block topside. The edge is sharp like a razor. The other lifters by comparasion, have a nice smooth beveled edge to them....pg
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Holding both (Medium).jpg
Views:	76
Size:	93.9 KB
ID:	31231   Click image for larger version

Name:	Good lifter on left_Bad one on right (Medium).jpg
Views:	74
Size:	87.8 KB
ID:	31232   Click image for larger version

Name:	Good left_Bad Right (Medium).jpg
Views:	71
Size:	46.3 KB
ID:	31233  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cadillac 390 to Chevy 350 Engine Conversion 62cadillac Engine 18 08-16-2012 04:49 AM
SBC 350 superiority rebuttle...was:POWERED BY CHEVY, WRITTEN ON A FORD, (from 'Engine Oldsmolac911 Hotrodders' Lounge 50 01-12-2011 11:00 PM
engine timing- 350 chevy stinky jinx Engine 7 06-02-2004 12:00 PM
350 chevy engine buildup dran04u Engine 9 06-07-2003 07:39 PM
350 chevy engine we2nutsinahouse Engine 3 06-15-2002 07:45 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.