[piniongear]

I just returned from taking the engine to the machine shop. He (Jeff) looked over the parts and said he could not tell what had caused the damage, except he thought the engine had been subjected to pinging.

He pointed to the brown spots under the head of most all pistons (which I thought were spots of burned oil, and I guess that is right) and told me that the heat had to be really great to travel through the piston like that. No conclusions however.

He pointed out something else I had not noticed.....on Old Friend piston #5 the piston had hit the exhaust valve. It cut a small gouge in the piston top like a half circle. Look at that head and sure enough, the valve had a ring mark around the rim of it where it made contact with the piston.
He said he can take of the gouge and will fix the tight wrist pin.

He told me I need a new cam and lifters.
Here is what he is going to do:
Line bore the crank and cam tunnels.
Check rods for mis-shaped ends.
Hone the cylinders.
Deck the block.
Regrind the crank.
New rings.
New bearings
Repair the heads as needed.
Then he will put the stuff together for me as a short block.
He does all of the machining in house except for the crank grind. That he sends out.
His shop has a couple of Sunnen hones, a Bridgeport 9 X 42 mill (just like mine at home) a large LeBlond Regal lathe, big radial drill, and a machine that decks blocks. Oh, and engines everywhere!
After talking with Jeff I am convinced he will do what he says he will and feel very comfortable leaving the parts with him.

Jeff told me that Melling oil pumps are what he sells and uses. My pump is a M55HV. Rather than reuse the old pump, I am going to use the brand new pump (M55HV) sent to me by the place I bought the engine from. This was an extra they sent me when I thought the oil pressure was too high. I just put it away rather than use it. Jeff told me how to clean the old one, but I will just install that new one I have.

So, it is going to be 6 weeks before the work is completed.
I did not even ask what it will cost. Doesn't matter, I need an engine that runs good. I will get the bill 6 weeks from now.

Thanks to all you guys for your comments and help. Great forum!
Now I have some time to clean up the shop and get things back in order. I will have more questions I am sure as I begin to assemble the engine back together.
Meanwhile I will clean up all of the non engine parts and maybe even get in the van to scrub down the engine compartment.............pg

[carsavvycook]

Originally Posted by 74chevy454

So when building street/strip motors where u mainly want to be a daily driver but be able to go to the strip on the weekends,which oils would u pros be using when building and running these types of motors.

I have a bbc 468 just got done and is ready for start up its got the edelbrock preformer package in it so the cam is a little lopey it was put together right was just curious what u guys would run in it, and really would like to here from everybody...

sorry
not trying to highjack a thread

Maxima 10W40

[CNC BLOCKS NE]

Originally Posted by 74chevy454

So when building street/strip motors where u mainly want to be a daily driver but be able to go to the strip on the weekends,which oils would u pros be using when building and running these types of motors.

I have a bbc 468 just got done and is ready for start up its got the edelbrock preformer package in it so the cam is a little lopey it was put together right was just curious what u guys would run in it, and really would like to here from everybody...

sorry
not trying to highjack a thread

The oil we would use would be the http://www.cen-pe-co.com/ 20/50 racing oil as it has 2300 PPM of zinc which is very high compared to other oils and alot of other shops we deal with are having good luck as well on cam break ins and using it in their engines.