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Old 03-23-2013, 09:26 AM
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I think i just bombed my car

im painting my car with sherwin williams ATX brand i believe its oil based. before i paint my car i cleaned every inch of my garage and for some reason alot of dust appearing from no where even my garage is fully closed. is this due to the oil based paint? the guy who is painting my car told me it probably because its oil based. now i have my car painted (just the color not clear yet) the car feels like a sandpaper due dusts stick on the paint. my painter told me to just wait 1-2 days n wipe the car with wet rag so itll remove the dusts on the car so he can put the clear. now this is where i need tips from the experts. i tried to wipe it without any pressure and i can see the primer, it looks like the paint doesnt stick on the car and the weird part is, its only happen on some part, the other part i can just wipe it with my fingers and it took some dusts off which is a good thing but the other side of the car i cant do anything to it because it feels like the dusts really stick on the car. any tips so i dont have to sand it and repaint it again?

sorry for my broken english
Thanks!!

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Old 03-23-2013, 09:51 AM
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Well for lack of better wording...you hit the nail on the head and set off a bomb on your car. I've never heard of ATX...is it house paint? There isn't any automotive paint that I've ever seen that is oil based. I would STOP right now....don't touch anything, don't worry about dust, it sounds like you have bigger problems. Above all, don't put anything on top of what you have done like clear coat.

First, find out what kind of paint you have...where did you buy it? Is it automotive paint (oil base...I highly doubt it). What did you paint over top of? How did you prepare the surface before the car was painted?

Get more information....Just to let you know, oil base paint, rattle can paint, paint by numbers...it doesn't matter. It's not the paint that put the dust in your car, it's usually house keeping, poor preparation, a painter that doesn't know what he is doing or all of the above.

Sorry to be so blunt, but I felt I needed to get a point across, get more information and I can help you out.

Ray
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:53 AM
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kodog;

welcome to Hotrodders.

I edited the thread title , removed HELP! ... No need for HELP in thread titles on Hotrodders .com

Very helpful , smart folks here

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Old 03-23-2013, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodoq View Post
im painting my car with sherwin williams ATX brand i believe its oil based. before i paint my car i cleaned every inch of my garage and for some reason alot of dust appearing from no where even my garage is fully closed. is this due to the oil based paint? the guy who is painting my car told me it probably because its oil based. now i have my car painted (just the color not clear yet) the car feels like a sandpaper due dusts stick on the paint. my painter told me to just wait 1-2 days n wipe the car with wet rag so itll remove the dusts on the car so he can put the clear. now this is where i need tips from the experts. i tried to wipe it without any pressure and i can see the primer, it looks like the paint doesnt stick on the car and the weird part is, its only happen on some part, the other part i can just wipe it with my fingers and it took some dusts off which is a good thing but the other side of the car i cant do anything to it because it feels like the dusts really stick on the car. any tips so i dont have to sand it and repaint it again?

sorry for my broken english
Thanks!!
I did spot repairs for a couple years using ATX. It's not the greatest paint but most people dislike them because of their toners and ability to match color, specifically on metallic. Oil based paint is house paint last time I checked and not what you have, unless they also have an ATX labeled paint for house paint, that would cause a lot of confusion. I think your painter rushed the job and didn't ensure the kind of cleanliness needed to paint and fed you a bunch of lies. At least he could have made it sound believable.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:10 PM
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[QUOTE=69 widetrack;1659608]Well for lack of better wording...you hit the nail on the head and set off a bomb on your car. I've never heard of ATX...is it house paint? There isn't any automotive paint that I've ever seen that is oil based. I would STOP right now....don't touch anything, don't worry about dust, it sounds like you have bigger problems. Above all, don't put anything on top of what you have done like clear coat.

First, find out what kind of paint you have...where did you buy it? Is it automotive paint (oil base...I highly doubt it). What did you paint over top of? How did you prepare the surface before the car was painted?

Get more information....Just to let you know, oil base paint, rattle can paint, paint by numbers...it doesn't matter. It's not the paint that put the dust in your car, it's usually house keeping, poor preparation, a painter that doesn't know what he is doing or all of the above.

Sorry to be so blunt, but I felt I needed to get a point across, get more information and I can help you out.

the car had what it looks n feels like a spray paint without clear coat so I sanded n use that paint as my primer. Before he paint the car I wipe the whole car with microfiber towel n when he started painting all the dusts start flying n we had yhe garage closed so he just paint with dusts still on the car now after 48 hours. I tried to take off all the dusts off but the fender n some area of the door I can see the primer it looks like the paint became powders. But the rest of yhe.car I cant do anything to it, it just feels like 200 grit sandpaper.

I got the paint from local automotive paint store.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:14 PM
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OK So you do have automotive paint. That's a plus in your favor. As I mentioned, I'm not familiar with SW's ATX but it appears as though it is automotive paint. If you painter said that it needed to be clear coated, I'm going to assume that you have base coat on the car (however, if your painter also said it might be oil base...I don't know what to think...car's don't use oil base). What you can do and what you should do is start sanding the car with a block. I would use 600 grit wet paper. This will remove the dirt nibs that you have stuck in the paint now and the fact that it has been sitting for 48 hours would indicate to me that you may have gone over your time limit for clearing (Most major automotive paint manufacturer's suggest clearing their base coat within 24 hours of applying the base coat).

After the car is completely sanded, even the areas that don't have dirt in the paint, you can re-base coat the car. Before you apply any more paint, wipe the car down several times with a damp cloth, clean the car extremely well...this is one of the most important parts of getting a good paint job. Another thing you need to do is clean the area that you are painting the car in...if you have dirt or dust any where in this area, it will find it's way on your car. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.

Purchase several "Tack Rags", these are pieces of cloth with a slight bit of adhesive on them, wipe the car down with these rags while blowing compressed air over the car, blow out all of the corner's, gaps between your doors, hood, deck lid...anywhere dirt can hide...get rid of the dirt. Wet the floor down in the place that your painting your car, water will hold down the dust and dirt you missed cleaning up.

If your painter told you that the dust in your paint was because it was an oil base paint, now is a good time to give this painter an opportunity to paint someone else's car, not yours...because if this is what he told you, he didn't tell you the truth and I wouldn't want anyone that's not honest with me near my car.

When you have a painter that your comfortable with, apply the base coat on the car, allow each coat to flash or dry before applying a second coat...apply as many coats as you need to to have all parts of the car covered so no areas show any primer spots or spots of a previous color and allow the paint to completely flash...or dry when your using base clear. When the base coat has dried, use your tack rag and wipe the car down before clearing, this will remove any small dirt particles before you clear the car. Apply a coat of clear, after the entire car has a coat of clear on it, wait about 15 to 20 minutes and apply a second coat, more coats of clear can be applied, however, the usual number of coats of clear applied in a body shop is two...if you apply more than two coats of clear, allow each coat to sit for about 15 to 20 minutes before applying another coat.

I hope this helps...I would ask you to make sure that you are using base coat on your car, I'm fairly sure you are...but if it's single stage, let me know...most steps are the same but I will outline the differences in steps you need to take.

Ray
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:18 PM
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I've re-read your last post...get a different painter...if he started painting and dust was flying around everywhere...he hasn't painted much. Paint cost a fair bit of money, sometimes paying a professional is a lot cheaper than letting someone who says they can paint waste the money you spent on paint material.

Ray
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
OK So you do have automotive paint. That's a plus in your favor. As I mentioned, I'm not familiar with SW's ATX but it appears as though it is automotive paint. If you painter said that it needed to be clear coated, I'm going to assume that you have base coat on the car (however, if your painter also said it might be oil base...I don't know what to think...car's don't use oil base). What you can do and what you should do is start sanding the car with a block. I would use 600 grit wet paper. This will remove the dirt nibs that you have stuck in the paint now and the fact that it has been sitting for 48 hours would indicate to me that you may have gone over your time limit for clearing (Most major automotive paint manufacturer's suggest clearing their base coat within 24 hours of applying the base coat).

After the car is completely sanded, even the areas that don't have dirt in the paint, you can re-base coat the car. Before you apply any more paint, wipe the car down several times with a damp cloth, clean the car extremely well...this is one of the most important parts of getting a good paint job. Another thing you need to do is clean the area that you are painting the car in...if you have dirt or dust any where in this area, it will find it's way on your car. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.

Purchase several "Tack Rags", these are pieces of cloth with a slight bit of adhesive on them, wipe the car down with these rags while blowing compressed air over the car, blow out all of the corner's, gaps between your doors, hood, deck lid...anywhere dirt can hide...get rid of the dirt. Wet the floor down in the place that your painting your car, water will hold down the dust and dirt you missed cleaning up.

If your painter told you that the dust in your paint was because it was an oil base paint, now is a good time to give this painter an opportunity to paint someone else's car, not yours...because if this is what he told you, he didn't tell you the truth and I wouldn't want anyone that's not honest with me near my car.

When you have a painter that your comfortable with, apply the base coat on the car, allow each coat to flash or dry before applying a second coat...apply as many coats as you need to to have all parts of the car covered so no areas show any primer spots or spots of a previous color and allow the paint to completely flash...or dry when your using base clear. When the base coat has dried, use your tack rag and wipe the car down before clearing, this will remove any small dirt particles before you clear the car. Apply a coat of clear, after the entire car has a coat of clear on it, wait about 15 to 20 minutes and apply a second coat, more coats of clear can be applied, however, the usual number of coats of clear applied in a body shop is two...if you apply more than two coats of clear, allow each coat to sit for about 15 to 20 minutes before applying another coat.

I hope this helps...I would ask you to make sure that you are using base coat on your car, I'm fairly sure you are...but if it's single stage, let me know...most steps are the same but I will outline the differences in steps you need to take.

Ray
Thanks!! i just did all your instructions n i flooded my garage with water i think the water helps alot to catch all dusts. now the car is fully painted but i have this problem
it happened when we were trying to remove the tapes. any tips to touch it up??
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:57 AM
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ok this is the joke of the day haha
previous color




after we painted




sorry for blurry pics my hands always shakes when taking pictures
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:17 AM
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This can happen for several reasons.

One could be that you over masked, this means that if you masked a molding, some of the tape was on an area that was to have paint on it and when you pull the tape off, it will take some body paint with it.

Another reason is when you take the tape off, I like to unmask a car as soon as possible after it's been painted, that way the paint is still fresh and easier to pull away from the area that you wanted the paint to stick.

This can also happen if you have a lot of paint on the tape and the body of the car, it's called "bridging" and results such as what your getting can happen.

Now, here is one of the major reasons that this happens...the angle at which you remove masking tape can peel the fresh paint off the car. Masking tape should be taken off at an angle away from the surface that you want the paint to stick. If you pull the masking tape off towards a painted surface, it can pull the paint right off the body. Don't rip the tape off, gently pull it away, at an angle opposite to the panel you just painted...for example, as in your picture you had the belt molding (chrome near the window) masked, when you pull the off, pull it off lifting it towards the window, not towards the panel and not in a straight 180 degree line to the molding.

What your going to need to do is after the paint has set up for a few days, sand the areas that the paint has peeled of the body with a fine grit of paper. I would recommend 800 grit wet on a block. When you have the area sanded, I would also recommend a coat of primer over the damaged area, let it cure and block out the primer again in 600 grit wet paper and prep the entire panel. Mask off the rest of the car and start off by applying base over the primed area at the same air pressure you originally used when painting the car. When you have coverage, gently fan your color out, about 12 to 15 inches past the area that was originally primed. Then give the entire panel 2 coats of clear and unmask the car in a few hours.

I hope this helps, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Ray
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:18 AM
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Other than the passenger side rear door, the car looks pretty good....did you keep the same painter?

Ray
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
This can happen for several reasons.

One could be that you over masked, this means that if you masked a molding, some of the tape was on an area that was to have paint on it and when you pull the tape off, it will take some body paint with it.

Another reason is when you take the tape off, I like to unmask a car as soon as possible after it's been painted, that way the paint is still fresh and easier to pull away from the area that you wanted the paint to stick.

This can also happen if you have a lot of paint on the tape and the body of the car, it's called "bridging" and results such as what your getting can happen.

Now, here is one of the major reasons that this happens...the angle at which you remove masking tape can peel the fresh paint off the car. Masking tape should be taken off at an angle away from the surface that you want the paint to stick. If you pull the masking tape off towards a painted surface, it can pull the paint right off the body. Don't rip the tape off, gently pull it away, at an angle opposite to the panel you just painted...for example, as in your picture you had the belt molding (chrome near the window) masked, when you pull the off, pull it off lifting it towards the window, not towards the panel and not in a straight 180 degree line to the molding.

What your going to need to do is after the paint has set up for a few days, sand the areas that the paint has peeled of the body with a fine grit of paper. I would recommend 800 grit wet on a block. When you have the area sanded, I would also recommend a coat of primer over the damaged area, let it cure and block out the primer again in 600 grit wet paper and prep the entire panel. Mask off the rest of the car and start off by applying base over the primed area at the same air pressure you originally used when painting the car. When you have coverage, gently fan your color out, about 12 to 15 inches past the area that was originally primed. Then give the entire panel 2 coats of clear and unmask the car in a few hours.

I hope this helps, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Ray
I unmasked tje car like 2 hours after the clear n i was thinking to use a razor but before i finish my sentence to my Neighboor he accidently unmasked that part lol. Yea i kept yhe same painter cuz hes my Neighboor n hes not charging me anything n he even told me before he doesnt have that much of experience for paint the whole car. He did my bumper n his own bumpers too n they looked good enough for me.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:34 AM
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All right, from the pictures it doesn't look that bad...so if your painter guy admits that he doesn't have a whole bunch of experience and you knew that going in, than I guess I can forgive him for some of the comments he made, we all need to start somewhere...to me it sounded like either he lied to you or he was inexperienced...I'm glad it was inexperience.

If the car was unmasked 2 hours after painting it, then any or all of the other reasons for the paint coming off could be the reason. At this point, the main thing is you will know what to watch for when you repair the door...A razor blade can work if the paint has bridged but, you would need to be extremely careful and have a steady hand. Try pulling the tape away from the panel when your unmasking, that will solve most of your problems, especially if you unmask 2 hours after clearing.

As long as your satisfied, that's the main thing.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:48 AM
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All right, from the pictures it doesn't look that bad...so if your painter guy admits that he doesn't have a whole bunch of experience and you knew that going in, than I guess I can forgive him for some of the comments he made, we all need to start somewhere...to me it sounded like either he lied to you or he was inexperienced...I'm glad it was inexperience.

If the car was unmasked 2 hours after painting it, then any or all of the other reasons for the paint coming off could be the reason. At this point, the main thing is you will know what to watch for when you repair the door...A razor blade can work if the paint has bridged but, you would need to be extremely careful and have a steady hand. Try pulling the tape away from the panel when your unmasking, that will solve most of your problems, especially if you unmask 2 hours after clearing.

As long as your satisfied, that's the main thing.
the maaco way is to let a sliver of the paint bleed onto the belt moulding so when you peel the tape you are not lifting it off the car. They got their hack work down packed I guess.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:11 PM
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As I mentioned in Permalink #10 about over masking, what "tech69" is referring to is under masking or leaving just a sliver of chrome or rubber or whatever showing...this is a common practice in many shops because it's easier to clean up the chrome or rubber than to repair a panel. In a perfect world take all, chrome pieces, rubber pieces, bumpers, glass anything that you don't want paint on, off the car. In many cases it just isn't worth the time or effort to do this...that's one of the main reasons they make masking tape.

Ray
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