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put down the rattle can and step back everything will be fine.rattle cans wont work. do you have a compressor?, spray gun?, first off id strip off that old paint who knows what that is start from bare metal this way u know what u are working with. plenty of repro parts out there for that car any bad rusted area replace with new steel look on cragslist for a used compressor, harbour freight has half decent spray guns start with that people on here can help you out as you go if you are going to rent a spray booth why cut corners and use spray cans you own a classic car treat it like one
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First thing is to invest in some decent equipment..does not need to be top of the line stuff but items that work well for the money. given the lifting problem that you have experienced I would strip the car..
Ditch those rattle cans as they have no place in painting a car.. Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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No compressor (well, a very small one but I don't think it's even close to big enough to run a spray gun), and no spray gun... What size compressor would I need? And I don't know ANYTHING about guns, what do I need??? I will probably only do this a couple times in my life, so I don't want to break the bank.... On a budget is my motto here, if I had cash to spare I would pay a pro...
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A little advice from my 48 years of painting.
If you aren't going to continue painting, prep it yourself, and have Schieb or someone paint it for you. It is far far cheaper than setting up to do it yourself. If you still want to try, here is my advice. Before you even start, try to educate yourself. Buy a good book on urethane paint systems... or better yet, see if a local source, like a community college or trade school, offers a class. There are many many things involved to keep the paint from failing... health issues... etc. etc. You need to understand how today's paint systems work, before you waste possibly hundreds of hours, or often thousands of materials dollars.... just to watch rust, adhesion problems, cracking, and more, destroy your effort. If you go into it understanding the basic principals, and how to avoid major issues, you will be far happier with the results! Nothing hurts as bad as having to totally strip the car, and start over. |
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Good advice TucsonJay. I will look into that stuff. So urethane is the way to go???
Anyone have thoughts on doing the whole process is my garage??? It is attached and I have kids inside, can you ventilate well enough??? |
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Thanks matts, I will look into that...
Did a bit more looking and found some people talking about water based paint. Any thoughts??? My guess is clean up would be much easier, and smell would be greatly reduced... |
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Primer, probably the best paint a guy can learn with. Martinsr has some good basics oon how to adjust a spray gun, hang out here and learn. Here are a few good links: "Basic of Basics" How do I paint my car myself? http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthre...your-paint-gun http://www.autobodystore.com/ms6.shtml Last but not least, IMO is the best one: http://www.hotrodders.com/articles/spraygun.html
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"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain |
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well.. this is not perfect.. but this is what is set up in my garage and my dads, he is a bodyman (40+ years)
one 60-80 gallon compressor, a water seperator. and a fairly good gun for the base and clear, you can use a cheap gun for primer.. read the safety warnings. like said above these new paints are made to be nice to the earth, but not to humans (thank the epa won't you) the moonsuits are not that much money.. you don't need pro gear thats made to last.. fresh air is a good Idea.. and there are cheap ways to get that.. dad uses a hose hooked to the outside of the garage.. I use an old small scuba tank and mouth piece.. dads is nothing more than a curled air hose hung from the rafter connected to a garden hose then out the garage,, simple and cheap.. paint fumes go outthe back fan ,fresh air from the front, away from the exhaust fan.. plastic on the walls and go.. for your first paint job, I'd stick to a solid color.. skip the metalic colors.. to easy to zebra stripe .. solid colors are easier to fix, boo boos.. if set on metalics.. get a van side from a junkard and practic on that.. get a used compressor, a new water seperator, and a gun and go nuts.. but be safe. the safety gear isn't that much.. and is cheaper than a hospital stay.. |
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Im Glad to someone that wants to do their own work . Theres a lot of good advise right here on this forum...Educated yourself and go for it From what you've said about the paint thats on the car you'll have to remove it and be able to prime after. Id buy a small compressor . It'll be handy lots of other things (putting air in your kids tire if nothing else). A 1 1/2 - 3 horse would be a good start and not to much $. You'd be able to prime and finish paint small areas like the jams and other pieces (good practise for the final finish). Buy a cheap gravity fed paint gun an electrical sander, a sanding block and youre good to go (Princess Auto or CTC has some great prices .)When youre ready to do the final paint Id rent a booth or get someone else to do the final paint since you have an attached garage... stick to the prep work at home. Dont forget to be safe... get a good paint respirator and dust masks. Working in an attached garage posses risk to others in the house ... keep that in mind. Last edited by CQNRQY; 02-04-2012 at 06:00 PM. |
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