[size=3]Doc here:

Yeah, I used to think I was safe with the rotor and coil wire in my pocket, then one day I left my prize 56 for Tranny service in Oakland ...(about 35 years ago) And returned The next day, to find it missing...

Stolen with a tow truck According to OPD...

They recovered nothing more than a midnight blue Body shell...They even took the wire harness!

They'll get ya no matter what ya do!

Doc [/size]

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Nowadays.....Lojack.It works!

[size=3]Doc here:

Yup...Got it on all the vettes...They still get away with it but not far...

One night I loaned the 76 to a lady I just met at a club, cuz...We need to go to the store...She was still sober, and said she never drove a vette before and would like to drive mine...

She was gone for an extended period of time, (as I expected ) And my Road~dawgies started dis'ing me about it...

I said I'm not worried...
First The cops follow it everywhere it goes anyway...
YA ain't going to sneak it anywhere..or hide in traffic..
It's insured for it...(which I pay dearly for)
and it has Lojack...
punch of a button on Speed dial here on the cell, and they'll find it..Besides, I have her Escalade here...

45 minutes later She came back, 1/2 tank less than when it left...

Doc [/size]

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we used to have a 68 camaro and we had a very simple kill switch on it. one of the two wires going to the coil we spliced a toggle switch into it, so when the switch was off there would be no power to the coil. the car would crank but not start. the switch i had ran to underneath the drivers seat. then u want to file the switch down to where it is almost smooth so it looks like another bolt head

I did something similar, ended up frying my MSD box because of extended cranking with no power to the coil i suppose. (I kept forgetting about the switch)

The lighter tric is an old trick that every experienced thief knows about. I have a kill switch on my car that I have installed in the trunk near the battery. The switch is concealed in a body cavity and I modified the swich stem and made a custom key that operates the switch. The thinking is 1. the switch is easy to access, 2. The switch is not inside the car where a thief would first look, 3. The switch key is a one-of-a-kind key that a thief cannot buy or modify quickly and 4. the switch is hidden in the trunk in a manner that won't restrict access to the switch even when the trunk is loaded. The radio circuit remains hot to store the settings, but since the head unit is in the trunk, a thief cannot get to it unless he is a wizzard who can decipher the setup in 90 seconds or less.

Another idea I have heard about is to install a headlight dimmer switch on the firewall up high enough that it would not be kicked under normal driving conditions, but can be activated easily by the driver in an inconspicuous manner. The switch can be wired directly or can be wired to a relay if you are concerned about voltage load. Paint the switch black and forget it.

Other ideas include a concealed stab switch, trick knob on the dash, fake lever, a switch concealed in a fake heater duct or fuse box or some other enclosure or a trick reflector. Get creative. There are lots of places to hide a switch and the more creative, the harder it is for the creep to get something he shouldn't.

I run a HELLA remote battery switch, not only a theft deterrant but if there is a fire or electrical short it will cut ALL power. Good thing when ya start getting custom..

I put a toggle switch on the ignition wire to the starter coil on all my vehicles. I have the switch in the trunk along with the fuel shutoff valve in the Bird. Even if they jumped the starter it wouldn't even make it out of a parking spot without emptying the carb.

You can't stop them from towing. Those repo guys on TV have a good setup. It's on the back of a half ton p-up. They just back up to you, it locks onto your tires automatically, a little lift and their gone. All within about a minute. They pulled up to a guys car and towed it when he went in to pay for gas. He came out and the car was gone. That wouldn't be cool.

i'm glad i drive a police interceptor....but id still like to install a killswitch after i add my planned modifications and doc seems like you know best so can you gimme step by step instructions

I could really use a hand with this, being useless with cars I have a 93 Crown Vic. The problem is my key ignition switch is off somehow and if I don't pull the key out in the exact right spot the ignition stays on and kills the battery. Especially if I don't drive it for a few days. I had it replaced once, and it was rather expensive. Since the switch works ok otherwise, I'm not to hip on dropping a few hundred to have this relaced again and see it fail again. I'd prefer to just put in a kill switch that would kill all the power. I assume I could do this basicly the same way you guys are talking about? Would this work? I'm not worried about the theft aspect, just to kill the power. Any tips? I'm afraid to let the kids use it currently, so they are using my new car *shudders* Any help would be deeply appreciated.

[SIZE=3]Doc here:

In your Case, your going to want to use the Battery Disconnect switch, that was mentioned previously. You Can purchase one online, or at the local Auto parts store for under $20...Just tell them what you want to do.

It's a high current switch that when you pull the key out , It disconnects the battery from the system.

It's simple to install, just mount it, and bolt the positive cable from the battery to one side of it, then bolt the cable that goes to the starter on the other.

HINT:

Locate the Fuses & wire that say "Computer" or "ECM" or "ECU" and (if you really care about it, or use it) "Radio memory " And extend those wires and Connect those directly to the battery Positive past the switch.

The reason for this, is If you constantly remove power to the Vehicle system (by turning the disconnect off) Your computer looses data, so does your radio..

When you turn it back on, the engine computer has to go through a "Learn" Mode for about 50 miles, or about 10 ignition Start/Stop cycles (depending on your system), and it will run badly until it stores the new parameters...

Your radio will lose the Stations you previously stored, and the Clock will flash the infamous "12:00"

In total, these only draw about 2/3 's of an amp all the time and won't run the battery down. (they run normally 24/7 anyway)

NOTE: A SAFETY ISSUE here,
****************************

Ford had a RECALL on those ignition switches, year not specfic, Crown Vic, was one of them...

Ford didn't start replacing them (even though they knew It was defective) With the NEW PN's Until 60 minutes did an investigation on it...on the behalf of an invalid lady who was burned to death in one caused by the switch.

It would seem prior to this incident, Ford had many issues with the switch mechanically wearing the electrical contacts inside the column..This would cause an INDIRECT short...on the main power wire..and Generate high heat in the Column area.

Not bad enough to blow the fusible link, but bad enough to heat the plastic case on the switch and steering column plastic cover just sitting, Consequently, the hot plastic would melt and drip onto the carpet.

Once hot enough, The Carpet and upholstery would burst into flames..In the case sited by 60 minutes, This elderly Lady was a paraplegic without the use of her legs, and belted in the passenger side of the car, while her daughter went into a store only to return to find the car engulfed in flames and her mother expired.

The Investigation Spearheaded by 60 minutes and the fire Marshall (since this was to be considered a manslaughter case) found that through work order's, The Woman had gone to Ford on several occasions with the same complaint.."Ignition Switch only works sometimes"

Ford was aware of this malady prior to the incident, and re~engineered a new replacement switch under a new part number, and issued a TSO about the switch to the dealerships..

But the catch 22 was The dealers were instructed to ONLY install the new PN On Warranty Service...(OR ...use up the old stuff first!)

Consequently if you came in for that complaint but were out of warranty, you got an old style switch..(at least until the supply ran out!) In this Case, Enough of the Ignition Switch remained to include the PN, That forensic's was able to determine It was one of the old style switches that was installed AFTER the TSO came out..

The Dealership, Ford Corporate, and the Board were Sued for millions over this incident, and someone in the Ford hierarchy was charged, and convicted with involuntary Manslaughter by the State.

I HAVE PERSONALLY WITNESSED this Malady myself...
***************************************

On A New Police Interceptor Crown Vic, owned by our Police department...

During a "Home Invasion" Style shooting with the perpetrator was still on site, The PD arrived on the call En-mass...about 50 Cruisers in total...

During The operation...I noticed The unit parked farthest From the scene, Windows Started to "Blacken" and shortly thereafter smoke started to bellow out of the passenger Compartment..

ALL within 30 or so seconds! I advised The officer that Her cruiser was on Fire..

We tried to open the locked Cruiser, Too hot for use of the lock or handle, with a Tofa and short of that failing, had to smash the drivers window out with an extinguisher to try and put it out (To no avail) Fire / Rescue had to put it out. The Cruiser Was a total loss within , I'd say 3 minutes..and had there been a prisoner in the backseat, would have expired within that time-span.

It was determined That the fire was caused by the carpet burning under the area of the Ignition Switch.

This issue has been a Thorn in Ford's Corporate Bottom....line... and not much is let out to the public..but after a specific date (long after the problem was discovered) All the defective switches were pulled from stock and destroyed to avoid them ending up in somebody's car ..

Ford was also directed to Change The "Flamability" of the interior of those models in future...it was NOT a recall issue...

SO Heads up!! If you haven't had The switch replaced RECENTLY you might have one of the defective PN's in there..You may Want as a safety issue, To go have it replaced again, AND install the disconnect switch as a backup!

Sorry for the long post..But it's a lot of info...

Doc [/size]

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Doc, you are the man. Thank you so much!

Many lates 60's GM carpet kits overlap about where your left hand would fall straight down when you sit in the driver seat. I installed a run-wire toggle switch just inside the carpet overlap. The switch was invisible, and nobody ever saw me switch it. Worked, even when someone tried to steal my 69 Skylark in San Francisco. They got all the change in my ashtray though!

I was thinking of just putting a hidden switch in my car that runs of the 'Start' wire from the ignition switch. Just one of those switches that pops out right away, it's off until pushed in and on when pushed in...like the light switches on the doors

Anyways, this way you can't start the car without pushing this switch in. Seems to me like it would work pretty well.

Later.

Yes it will but if it is a GM vehicle I suggest that you use a relay on the start wire from the ignition switch, like most of the dealers use for theft deterrents. There are many different brands with different "keys" but they all do the same thing, interrupt the starter