I know this post is VERY old but I also want to set up the switch off the ignition (assume its the brown wire..'65 Chevelle)....just not sure what I need to watch for when buying a switch...I was thinking toggle switch, but how much current flows throught the "brown wire" ?

Doc here,

Do you want to kill ignition power,(so it won't fire) or Starter power (so it won't crank)?

If you want to kill Solenoid activate power, use a a relay, as this line Can draw enough current to burn up a direct wired switch.

If you just want to kill Spark, You Can use a Switch wired in series with your Coil power line.

In Either Case, a 5 Amp or better, contact rated Switch should be used, And a relay for the Solenoid Energize line should be rated at 10 amps or better..

Hope it helps!

Doc

Photo: Ign System 63-67 Gm

Attached Thumbnails

 

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So...looks like I can install the switch under the dash inline with the "PPL" wire that comes from the igintion switch??

Doc here,

You could, But you be better off finding the wire that goes to the Ballast resistor & coil (under the hood) Simply because it is easier to access...

also this will kill secondary ignition which comes from the solenoid and does not go through the ignition switch. That is the line that provides constant 12 volts during cranking cycles...(will not run when is in run position, only in Start)

I'd install the wires there and run the wires through the fire wall through any handy hole to your switch..

Doc

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Sorry...no points anymore...I've got a Mallory HEI.

Doc here,

OK, That would be the best place to install your switch wires...at the point the Mallory gets power...

If you use the purple wire, you'll need a relay, because this wire also supplies power to "HOT IN RUN" items also , like radio, wipers, heater ect..It's a high current wire..(why it's a larger gauge wire in the harness.)

Doc

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Wonder how effective it would be to use a hidden SPDT switch & shift the starter-energize circuit over to a horn relay when you're not in the car?

Or maybe to a separate ignition coil hooked to the driver's seat so it would bite them on the butt when they let up on the switch?

Doc here,


Or how about hooking the dome light switches up to the horn relay energize with a hidden (like next to the gas cap) override switch...WITH a latching circuit...door opens lights go on..horn sounds..door closes light goes off...horn stays on until the override is reset...???

OR the ultimate in anti theft..... air bag deployment when ignition is tampered with...except the bag is replaced with a brick...

Thief=0 Paramedics=1

Doc the devious..

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I like that one, Dome light , ground... Horne , Ground, just don't forget the switch !!!!

Doc here,

Yuppers, and a simple hook up too..requires a switch and DPST or DPDT relay to do it right..both you can score at rat shack for under 10 bucks...

just isolate the ground from the dome light switch circuit (These run on interrupted ground instead of power) and tap a wire from it (them) or dome-light ground, and run it to the ground side of the relay.

Hook the remote hidden switch, to constant 12 volts and the other side of the relay coil.

Hook the Center wiper of the relay to the horn relay ground energize.(usually black wire)

Hook the normally open side of the relay to ground.

Jumper a wire from that to the second set, normally open contacts on the other side of the relay, and the second center wiper wire back to ground side of the relay coil.

(This provides the "Latch Circuit" so when the door is shut, ground is removed from the dome light circuit and relay coil, the contacts maintain coil ground holding it closed, until you remove the 12 volts from the coil via the hidden switch) ERGO..the horn blows until YOU shut off the override switch.

Simple, Cheap..and just as annoying as "The Real Deal.." AND won't go off UNLESS some one is actually trying to gain assess to your car...not just a set of Flowmasters passing by at 1500 RPM...

About the only thing that does false trigger it...is when you FORGET to reset the hidden switch and scare the daylights out of yourself...

Doc

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Kill switches may prevent hot wiring, but they cannot prevent towing!

I liked that hydraulic brake lock. You press the brake, turn the key to lock the pressure and leave. Now if someone tries to tow it, the tires will be screetching down the road and bound to get a cops attention (if there is one around)

Even if the car is started, it won't roll.

The down side is the brake lines have to be modified/spliced...