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Old 12-26-2008, 09:58 PM
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i want to make more power

i have a 350 bore.60 over brand new no race nights on them 882 heads 202 1.6 valves stock rotating assembly but what i need to is what can i do to make alot of power i race on a 1/4 mile track dirt 273 rearend gear run i in low gear what i need to know is what can i do while the heads are off to make more power little tricks or on partsthat might help caddalic carb and rebuilt distrib. both good condtion need all help avab if i left any out sorry wife is bugging me to go to the store help please if u need to know any more info let me know thanks randy

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Old 12-26-2008, 11:40 PM
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The best advice I can give you is to use punctuation

Just busting your chops

But seriously, more replies are likely if you phrase it so its easy to read. We also need more information. So far it sounds like an interesting mismatch... 2.73 gears and 1/4 mile oval dirt don't really go together.

If the heads are currently off, ditch them. 882s were fairly good heads in 1975, but they don't hold a candle to what is available. If you have to run a factory head, use Vortecs. Easy 50 hp over what you have.
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:50 AM
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What are your rules? Are you just starting out or a vet?Which car?Assuming th350 your final drive ratio in low will be 6.87 may work ok.My suggestion is put a small hydraulic cam in it, correct valve springs for the cam. Make sure the ignition is is good shape, carb is good to go.Then concentrate on handling and driving there is far more speed in handling than horsepower.What you need when starting out is a dependable engine so you can spend your time on set ups and learning to drive. Power can come later after the handling is figured out.I am assum,ing you are new to racing by the way your ? is worded if I am wrong please let me know and we can move on to some go fast stuff.
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:42 AM
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What's your budget? That's the first thing. Unlimited budget will make unlimited power.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:26 PM
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I'd recomend getting better heads- or porting and milling the ones you have at the very least. Vortec's are great, but they require their own rockers and manifold- not really budget friendly. ported 416's are a small chamber head that can make good power, maybe look into something like that. I'd suggest the 274H06 cam too (or one of the many other part names for a 274/274 218/218 106 102 .450/.450 cam- mine's from Elgin) It is pretty easy on parts and makes more midrange than most comprable cams- its also only like $80 from Competition products. You'll need a free flowing exhaust with that cam for best power though as it is a singl epattern with a tight LSA. running long tubes and 2.5" pipes will make a BIG difference. After that would be the manifold, a high flow dual plane would be best, though something like a torker wouldn't be bad either.

If you buy the cam kit from comp. products, the valve springs from them or midwest motorsports, cheapie long tubes, a cheap gasket set, and a used intake you're probably looking at about $350-$400 total. Add to that a good port job and you're probably going to see about a 100hp increase.
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsup
What's your budget? That's the first thing. Unlimited budget will make unlimited power.

Bingo!!

If it were me I would start with the heads. You would be better off with a set of 170/150 valves on a 62cc chamber heads than those oxymoron smog heads. I also have a set of the 882s and dumped them in favor of a set of humper-pumpers.. Its really a shame about the 882s, they got a lot going for them but just fall short in a couple important aspects.

Also helps to know more about your ride and what you want to do with it.

Last edited by 65smallblock; 12-28-2008 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:08 PM
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Put a lower gear in the rear end! Cheapest improvement you will make. You will think you have doubled the horse power.
Dave
Dave's Hot Rod Shop KC Mo
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Old 12-28-2008, 04:14 PM
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Wildman´s got it right. Get better gears and a stall converter and you´ll think it´s a new engine. But the most important is that you set you goal before you go shopping. Is it a fast daily driver or a bracket killer or all out racing?
I did 13.52/105 in a all metal ´68 Camaro with something quite close to the old Lt1 from 1970 (other cam and Team G intake). 3.42 gear and Hughes 3000 stall converter.
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Old 12-28-2008, 04:17 PM
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ok sorry for the info guys im trying to get a 292 caddy gear for my rear end but i need somewhere in the neighborhood of 650 final drive i have a xe-268 cam but im gonna cheat a little and go or a solid lift 00351 cam . as far as the heads i have to use some thing avab. from 86 and down no vortecs no dart no big upgrades just cast iron heads and no double humps. got a good exhaust but im thinking about some 041 or some 993 heads im not real new to racing been going they for 10 years and drove some but i just wanna be competitive and now be the car that runs around the back just in the way please help some more trying to same some cash but not wanting to go crazy the rules are posted at www.thunderbirdspeedway.net and go to rules them bomber thanx for the help
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Old 12-28-2008, 04:36 PM
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2.73 rear gear and a th-350 trans is a very common setup in my neck of the woods in stock type classes, especially the ones that require you to run a MG rear end, they don't have the gear selection that the 9 inch fords do.

If you could post your rules, you would probably get more ideas, milling heads, porting, etc etc. can improve power, it just depends on what you are allowed to do.
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Old 12-28-2008, 05:12 PM
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2008 Bomber Rules

GENERAL:

All components are subject to inspection and approval of inspecting officials. No equipment will be considered as having been approved by reason of having passed through inspection unobserved. The management reserves the right to make any necessary changes to enhance the racing program or safety.

TERMS:

The term "stock O.E.M." means that the item/part must have been a standard item/part on the MAKE and MODEL of the vehicle being driven as a racecar. Just because a part is manufactured by the company that manufactured the vehicle does NOT mean the part is legal. The part must have been available on the specific vehicle being used as a racecar.

CARS:

Must be stock street type passenger cars or station wagons.

No commercial vehicles, convertibles or sports cars allowed.

Wheelbase must be stock for make and model.

114" or longer wheel base cars may run a stock 4-barrel carburetor.

108" wheel base cars are allowed ONLY if running a 305 engine with a STOCK 2 barrel carburetor.

BODY:

Cars must be strictly stock. No cutting on body. No holes in hood. Hood must be kept in place at all times. Hoods cannot be hulled. Complete bumper to bumper steel unibody must be retained. Door panels, floorboards, dash, fenders and fender wells must remain in car. Fenders cannot be cut. Doors must be welded or bolted closed. Door panels can be cut for installation of driver or passenger protection and safety bars.

FUEL TANK:

Must be securely mounted in trunk. Trunk floor may not be removed but must have a way of letting gas escape, such as drain holes. Fuel tank must have a screw-on cap. FUEL TANK and DRIVESHAFT must be PAINTED WHITE. Must have front and rear firewall. May use fuel cell. PUMP FUEL ONLY.

FUEL:

Automobile gasoline only, no additives.

BUMPERS:

Bumpers must be round tubing (1 3/4") or square tubing (2”max). Tubing bumpers can only be as wide as body and cannot pass outside of car. All open ends must be capped.

GLASS:

All glass, chrome (except bumpers) and interior (except front seat) must be removed. Racing seat OK.

SUSPENSION:

No modifying of the suspension is allowed. NONE. Suspension parts must remain absolutely stock for that make and model of car.

ROLL BARS:

Minimum of one (1-1/2" O.D.) roll bar back of front seat braced both forward and backward on both sides. Full cage OK. No bars through front or rear firewall. May add 1/4" steel plate, maximum 12" high, outside of driver's door for protection.

BELTS:

All cars must be equipped with an approved 3" wide safety belt and a 2" wide shoulder harness (racing type).

ENGINE:

Stock engine only for that make and model and in its original position (No racing cams). Hydraulic camshaft and lifters only.

MANIFOLD:

Stock cast iron intake manifold. NO HIGH RISE. Stock carburetor for that make. No Holley on GM. NO ADAPTER PLATE. NO HEADERS. Stock cast iron exhaust manifold. Muffler and tail pipe may be removed. Header pipe must be retained.

RADIATOR:

Only one (1) radiator and must be centered in front of engine in a vertical position without body modifications.

BATTERY:

Must be securely mounted and covered by sheet rubber or mounted in a marine box to prevent acid spilling. Battery must be in good working order, capable of starting car. THIS WILL BE ENFORCED AND SUBJECT TO INSPECTION!!

TRANSMISSION:

Must have stock transmission, stock clutch parts and automatic must have stock converter.

REAR END:

Stock passenger car rear end. No positive track. No limited slip. LOCKED REAR END is OK.

TIRES:

Stock wheels 7" or 8" wide with 70 or 75 series tires only. IMCA McCreary American Racer tires are OK. DOT number and series must show on tire NO RECAPS, NO GROOVING, NO RACING TIRES. No Hoosier DOT tires.

PROTECTIVE CLOTHING & MISCELLANEOUS:

Driver must wear Snell approved helmet. Driver suit (fire suit) mandatory, may be one (1) or (2) piece, must be complete and be of fire resistant material and in good safe condition. Fire resistant driving gloves recommended. Shoes optional. Hood and rear end check optional by track officials at any time. Feature winner will be checked.

It is at the discretion of Thunderbird Speedway to change any rules pertaining to safety at any time.

CAR CLAIM:

You must start the feature with the car claimed and finish no more than five (5) positions behind the car claimed and take checkered flag. Claim will be $500.00 and your car. Both cars will be complete as raced. May keep safety belts and fuel cell. Must sell or forfeit all money for night and points for season, and be barred for four weeks for first offense. A second refusal will result in suspension of the remainder of the season.

DRIVER:

Anyone driving over three (3) times this season in any other car class above street stock cannot driver bombers. Anyone finishing in top ten (10) in points within the last year (1) of any class other than bomber cannot driver bomber class. Cannot drive bomber and any other class on the same night.

POINTS:

Driver earns points based upon feature finishes. Top 10 in points will be awarded trophies at the end of the season




ok here are my rules and hopefully if u have any questions these rules will help thanx
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:12 PM
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Pretty vague on some of the rules. From what I see, I'd mill the heads and block to maximize compression. It states "no racing cams" but that's it, no lift rule, just states that it must be hydraulic. Lots of racing cams are hydro, so look for something from one of the many cam grinders, dependent on what you end up with for compression. With those heads, flat top pistons, and a decked block, you should be able to achieve about 10.5:1 compression. Fuel rule says gas only, so if you can't get away with something like turbo blue racing gas, keep the compression a little lower. Look for the best of the stock iron intakes and exhausts, get a good quad built just for circle track racing, put a good HEI in it and go racing. With similar parts, we turn motors like this to upwards of 7000 RPM's, but you'll spend money to be reliable at that RPM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:17 PM
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What car are you using? Be specific.
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:10 PM
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1.Get the 041 heads-same as humps, no markings
2. your gear is close should be ok for now
3.Call a cam co such as comp and describe your rules they will set you up. The main thing would be to sound stock.Refer to my first post concentrate on handling.
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:12 PM
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Need to know the car you are using to be of any more help.
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