I went to the paint store today and they said.....
I went to the paint store today for some tape, hardener and sand paper, then I had to ask some questions about primer. It has been 10 years since I have worked in a body shop so I am kind of rusty with the body work thing. I asked them if the Omni Urethane Primer was just hard to sand and he said yes if you are wet sanding, no if you are dry sanding. I then asked him what would sand better than the Omni 182 and he told me the 181 lacquer primer. I am no big fan of lacquer primers, I think they don't fill very well and they draw up moisture. The paint salesman told me that this brand of lacquer primer doesn't draw up moisture plus it is a high build, I say BS. He then tells me that if I am going to strip the paint on my car I need to etch the metal, then seal it, do the bodywork and then prime it with this primer. I understand etching the car, but sealing it then doing the work and then priming? This is *** backward what I was taught in college. I was taught to strip bad paint fix dents etch metal and prime with a good 2 stage water proof primer. Am I just behind the times or is the way things should be done????
I'VE always heard and been told/ taught to sand down to bare metal, do the body work, etch primer that, sealer, paint.
but here lately i hear more and more people say to etch prime then filler.... and this is from people who's opinions i respect and value. not some schnook like me.:mwink:
i bought a gallon of K36 the other day, the guy i got it from said he didn't use it any more, that now days, he uses evercoat on bare metal, then uses that icing stuff over that, then an epoxy primer, then paint....
but i don't think i can hardly bring myself to lay down anything over just the minutest little smidgen of filler on anything but bare metal. :confused:
I am not a professional painter, I just do my own work but times are changing guys... The quality and cost of paints has gone up big time in the last ten years and, you guessed it... some of the processes have changed.
I had a real big problem with spraying paint while it's raining out... but the two part paints don't care. They cure with a chemical reaction and couldn't care less what the humidity is. It's better to spray when it's raining because the dust and bugs are down... I sprayed my truck with Nason BC/CC this spring while it was raining cats a dogs outside and it came out beautifully! Absolutely ZERO blushing (remember spraying laquer when the humidity was a little high?) and it laid down so smooth it was amazing...
Strip the car... metal etch and/or spray a self etching primer like Duponts Vari-Prime and then spray on a high fill epoxy primer/surfacer as your base for body work. It works, my truck is proof and it really helps keep the moisture from leaching back into or under all of your unprimed body work.
Talk to your paint store guys... They are in the business to help and guide you and have an open mind 'cause some of the "new fangled" ideas work pretty well.
And have some fun too!
I would take the guys advice about etch, sealer then body work. Not too sure about the lacquer primer thing though.
Well guys I guess I'm from the old school,I try all the new paint technique's, some I use some I don't, I try to stay with the ones that will work for me .
I have never applied filler of any kind over anything but bare metal, in 50 years I have never had any crack or come off. I have done repairs where there was old repairs and any place there was filler over anything but bare metal it came off easer.
The only time I use etching primer is when I have sand blasted a pitted area.
I use a urethane primer over the filler and to seal the bare metal. Normally I use fast fill easy sand acrylic lacquer primer to do my leveling and filling.sometimes i well use a urethane primer, but it is slower.
When I have every thing like I want it , I seal it with a tinted urethane sealer.
I have some cars of my own that stay outside, and some that stay inside, some have been painted for over 10 years and they will still win paint awards.
To finish, I think that a lot of the new painting systems are designed by engineers and salesman to satisfy the bean counters, And most of them have never been in a body shop or painted a car. I'm sure that some of the younger painters will come on here and say that my methods are outdated, but hey why fix something that isn't broken?
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.
69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
So far what I have been doing(what the local paint guys told me)
I strip to bare metal, do my bodywork(fillers,icing,etc) Then prime with a filler primer(requires hardener)...this primer is also a sealer when mixed differently. Then I will paint.
Once the primer is dried and sanded it is tough as nails. I like the fact that I don't have to buy a sealer to go over top of it with before paint.
BTW it is a U-Pol filler primer...I was using CarSystems but they seemed to have disappeared.
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