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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2012, 03:28 PM
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The cheapie lights are not a hazard. I think if you have any air circulation at all the chances of getting blown up are nil. I've only been painting for about 15 years but I've never heard of any explosions due to paint fumes around my area. Your standard AC motors are brushless so there are no arcing there.

ron

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2012, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the info. The second question I have then is orientation of the lights on the wall. I noticed swvalcon has his wall lights running vertically (which makes sense, I guess). The cheapie lights I'm planning on going with are 4', 2 bulbs per fixture. My plan now was to mount to on each wall so that one will provide illumination for the front half of the side of the car, and the other the rear half of the side.

My question is will these things be blinding me from the wall opposite me as they're shining right in my face, like my fluorescent shop treble light does? Or is that a phenomenon that's only occurring (such as in the latter instance) from the stark contrast from a bright light in an otherwise dark room? In other words, when the entire room is bright are these side lights not as blinding?
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:12 AM
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What I have found with my lighting, it is not brightness that helps with my painting, (my shop is very bright with lots of lights from above), but I need reflections of the lighting so I can determine how smooth the paint is going onto the surface. I needed to put up more vertical lighting on the sides and the ends of the car so I can look down a panel and see a light source that I can see a reflection and that helps me see if I need more paint on the surface.

I haven't read the posts on ventilation yet, but what I was thinking was use a window opening with filters for the shop makeup air and then use one of the round turbine fans that connect to 12" hoses. I was going to run the suction inlet hose underneath the car with lots of holes and run the outlet out of the shop. My thinking is, this may make it more like a downdraft booth, move the paint fumes from top of the car to the bottom and then out the fan. The window and filter for the makeup air is toward one end of the booth and the outlet is at the other end.

I have used one of these fans with an outlet just to blow paint fumes out of the shop and it works very well, I haven't used one yet with an inlet hose connected.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:41 AM
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Home made paint booth

Be sure to put the exhaust fan switch on the outside of the booth with a control on the inside. That way you won't blow up the booth from a spark at the switch and you can shut down the exhaust vacuum before opening the door to the booth. A lot of dust will pour in through the open door and swirl around if you open the door with the fan running.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:43 PM
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what are these 12" turbine fans you speak of, craig?

Flying hemi (or anyone else for that matter), will there be a hazard if I'm using box fans? I know lots of people use those in their homemade paint booth.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:41 PM
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Explosion proof your booth

I think the given here is that you will have a booth to paint your car and parts in so here are my thoughts on the matter. Standard air circulating fans have electrical current running through them and even if there is no spark they can produce a static charge that will ignite a volatile vapor. The fans that are normally used in paint booths, have blades that are aluminum so that no spark will be created if they strike the side of the shroud. Also they are powered by an electric motor from outside the booth. The drive pulley of the motor protrudes into a pipe large enough for the fan belt. Usually the fan belt is 2 or 3 feet long and drives a pulley, on a shaft. That shaft goes out of the tube where it is connected to the fan blade. Perhaps your local major paint rep (PPG ?) knows a source for good used proper fans. Many of us have taken the chance and not had any problem. I personally have and got away with it. One must consider that the inside of a paint booth full of ignitable vapors could become a fire box. My understanding is that the booth would not explode but rather have a hot flame that radiates around the entire booth, like a cloud on fire. Minimizing the risk would be to have a massive air flow to minimize the ignitable vapors in the air. Most booths have a fire retardant system in them and it would not be very costly for you to put one in your booth. Just requires hooking up to a good water supply, plumbing the ceiling with copper tubing and installing 2 or 3 temperature sensitive shower heads (the kind they use in all commercial buildings). Even though you are in a booth with some air flow you must wear a fresh air respirator or you will suffer brain and nervous system damage. In the paint industry the saying is, if you can smell it it is hurting you. And today some very toxic and poisonous chemicals have no smell at all.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Lizer]what are these 12" turbine fans you speak of, craig?
QUOTE]


The one I used before was similiar to this one.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7174_200007174
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:32 AM
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Spray booth

An inexpensive fan is a used furnace fan (sometimes you can get them for free). The average furnace fan will create 1000-1500 cfm on high speed.
Build a plywood box for it to create a framed rectangular outlet. Put it on a wooden frame with casters of proper height to roll it in place then store it out of place later. Use it to suckout the air (not blow fresh air in) , sucking creates less turbulence for stirring up dust. I made a removable plywood adapter so that I blow out of a window.
On other end I open a window that has a screen on outside and then tape cheap throwaway filters on the inside of the window.
You will get some paint buildup on the fan, but for occasional use that won't matter. Always let your fan continue to run for several hours to exhaust fumes b4 unplugging.

The cheapest, best air filter for water removal is is motorgaurd toilet paper air filter. Place it before you regulator with some 3/8" or 1/2" ball valves so it can be bypassed when not painting
http://www.kolorhouse.com/mtg-m-30.html

You do not have to use their filter element, just buy a pack of cheap toilet paper (the ones where the rolls are slightly smaller diameter than the deluxe units). You will be able to paint the whole car with one roll. ALLWAYS take the filter element out for non painting jobs because the wet paper will eventually corrode the aluminum housing (ask me how I know). You can let the roll dry for a week and reuse it over and over.

I have painted ~ 15 cars using this method.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:51 AM
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hello,

if you go to the following link, you will see all of the pictures i have been taking for my project.

take a look at the "paint_booth", "exhaust_fan" and "garage_work" albums. everything is operational and in use now.

let me know if you have any questions.

take care and good luck,
mark
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:52 AM
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sorry about that...

here is the link to my restoration photos:

1968 Mustang restoration photos
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:15 PM
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I tell you what guys, it's going to take me a good weekend just to sit down and process all this info and look into it some more, so many great suggestions, tips, and recommendations. Keep em coming if you got them, I sure appreciate all the help, and I will have some more questions for you as well, especially if you've commented.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:02 PM
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Used to work in house garage, after my sons friend set fire to his motorcycle in it. Cost 110,000 dollars to restore house. Please take all precautions, may take extra money well worth it.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:21 PM
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I've painted in a lot of make shift home booths and only seen one fire. Had a nimn**ts paint a tank and fenders with lacquer than sit down on a old thinner 5 gal bucket and light a cigarette. It should have blown him to the other life. Gods way of getting rid of the stupid.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:12 PM
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I'm glad this got resurrected because I'm getting close to beginning construction on this.

One question I've had recently...I see a lot of pro booths have the lights in angled corners where the ceiling and wall meet. Is this only because the lights can't go on the ceiling because of the down draft or is there better lighting function with this way as well? If so I plan to do my corners this way.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:49 AM
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I dont have lights in the corner in my booth. I plan to fine a way to add some and I've got a bit of a dark spot at the rear because the lights should have been moved back about 4 ft. You can never have to much light.
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