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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2013, 10:03 PM
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Right now I'm spraying with a filtered full face respirator and full Tyvek suit. If I were to start doing a lot more spraying I'd consider getting a hobbyair. Just priming small parts I use a half face. I'll use my full face though for anything with iso's. I'll often spray 2k in front of my shop and since it's outside I'll just wear my half face for that. Totally not a pro, which is why I can get away with spraying outside.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2013, 10:33 PM
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as previously mentioned - the pump goes away from exhaust vents some place safe. my set up (see my website for photos) is a simple single bay garage setup. i place the pump on the outside of the garage on the front and exhaust out the back.

i NEVER smell anything when i am using the SAS. i use the SAS from the minute i start mixing until i am done shooting. i set the hose up so i can walk out of the booth with the hood on, pump on, pulling the hose behind me (between coats), then do everything in reverse when i return to the booth. it takes planning and coordination, especially for a larger shoot - hence the comment i made earlier about freedom of movement.

i have seen pictures of people who put the pump in their basement so they can draw in cooler conditioned air. they even sell a "chiller" that is basically a large tub filled with water and ice and the hose is coiled inside of the tub.

the SAS comes with a high volume pump that can be used with a "two hose setup", so you can have two people in the booth at the same time. i purchased the high volume pump thinking that my dad might want to be in the booth with me from time to time.

i wish i had NOT gotten the bigger pump.

with a one hose set up (which is always the way i shoot) - the pump is too powerful and makes is somewhat difficult to keep the hood on straight.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:47 PM
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i noticed that you asked about heating the booth.

my garage is insulated and heated - but the heater is located in the booth (could not be helped).

i have to heat the garage up as hot as i can, then shoot - then turn the heat back on. again it is a coordination thing that has to be practiced and perfected.

my mentor has a hot dawg heater outside of his booth and he draws the heated air past his paint curtain and in to the booth. he does show cars all of the time, and much of his work is done in cooler/cold months when he has more time.

i shot my daughters 2000 Mustang hood and hood scoop in January of this year and the booth was not warm enough when i did the clear - so i did run the clear (a little). for me it will take more practice and experience - or until i decide to move my operation to a different building.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:09 PM
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Thanks for the info. I was planning my "dream" garage, and one thing I wanted was a paint booth. But once I actually started looking at them, it was apparent that wasn't going to happen. Beyond the price of the booth, they require things like 10 hp 3 phase motors and 1.2 million BTU gas hookups, which isn't going to happen at my house
So I started thinking about why it needed that stuff. It seems like professional booths have enough airflow that one wouldn't even need a mask, and that all the air is external - the intake is outside, not shop air, and the exhaust is obviously outside. That requires a lot of heat in cold climates.
I did some calculating, and to get what I think is sufficient airflow in what seems a common size booth (24 x 14 x 9), it takes about 1600 cfm. To heat that air in cold weather would take something like 80-120k BTU/hr, depending on how cold you want to be able to paint, and how well the furnace works. This seems to fit in with a residential furnace size, has anyone ever used one to vent and heat a booth?
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