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-   -   Ideas on how to get the phillips screws out? (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ideas-how-get-phillips-screws-out-223933.html)

hinges56 09-12-2012 02:00 PM

Ideas on how to get the phillips screws out?
 
Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the door hinge phillips screws out? I soaked them in "PB" and used my impact driver which usually does the trick. I can't really get behind them to use a torch with out cutting sheet metal.[IMG]<a href="http://s854.photobucket.com/albums/ab102/hinge_photo/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0897.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab102/hinge_photo/IMG_0897.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

hinges56 09-12-2012 02:06 PM

Sorry, It looks like i forgot how to post pics! Dumb A**!

monster76 09-12-2012 02:11 PM

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/IMG_0897.jpg

monster76 09-12-2012 02:16 PM

there you go its a little on the big side, if the impact driver doesn't get it and you absolutely cannot chisel it out drill it out then extract it

66SSImp454 09-12-2012 02:39 PM

It sure looks like there is enough still. Can you heat it then use your impact? I think the impact is going to be the best tool at this point and I think I would just keep hammering at the impact with the best fitting bit.

Have you tried to tighten first?

Other thought, drill off the head so you can get the latch off, then vise grips with heat and/or PB

Chevymon 09-12-2012 03:55 PM

Henges, your henges are going to be a problem.
Removing the head of the screws won't help because they are recessed and they only go through that sheet metal, there are some other bolts that actually hold the henge. One of the problems is the very good star lock washer they have.

I have been successful with a chisel to mark the head and a punch to make it turn, but that was with rust free screws that had been on for 50 years, and your lower bolts and screws are not rust free.



http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/IMG_0683.jpg

MARTINSR 09-12-2012 04:25 PM

First off, are you using the correct driver? That looks like #3 or even #4. If you are using the correct bit that makes all the difference in the world.

The other trick is to use a #1 or 2 tip on your torch and heat up JUST THE BOLT or at least try to. Then cool it with a squirt bottle of water. Heat it, cool it, heat it cool it, do this four or five times, you can't do it to much, six, seven, it's all good. THEN you try to remove it with the correct driver.

I have a "Basics of Basics" in the works for this very thing but haven't gotten it done.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF8783.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF8784.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF8785.jpg

Photo number 1 shows a #2 on the right and a #3 on the left. The screw is a #3 as photo #2 shows. Then in photo #3 you can see a #4 Philips head driver and screw.

The driver should fit it in TIGHT.

Rapping it with a hammer is a good way to break it loose. You would be surprised how often a little rap will make an other wise stubborn screw come right out.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/100_5441.jpg

It's pretty hard with that oval headed screw but you may be able to knock it loose with a chisel too.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/100_5439.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/100_5440.jpg

Go straight into it to get the knotch, then put it at an angle to rotate the bolt.

Brian

Old Fool 09-12-2012 04:44 PM

Drill the heads off the screws.

swvalcon 09-12-2012 04:50 PM

I've heated the head of the screw and used the bit in a impact on low power and gotten some of these type screws out the rest I've had to do as oldfool said and drilled the head off and then removed the rest of the screw after the hinge was off.

Chevymon 09-12-2012 04:54 PM

You may have to do some sheet metal cutting and if you do you might need to know what the henge consists of, although I wouldn't be worried about saving anything.


http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/1afebe9d.jpg

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/88b6b1a9.jpg

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/786bcf88.jpg

MARTINSR 09-12-2012 05:10 PM

When the bolts still look this good, there is NO reason to even entertain the thought of drilling them out. That is a last resort when the hole gets rounded out and a tool won't fit it anymore. But when it looks like this, get the right tool and remove it.
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/IMG_0897.jpg

It looks like it may be a #4 phillips. Using the correct driver makes all the difference in the world! Trying to get a #4 out with a #3 driver, oh heck yeah you are going to round the hole out and then yep, drill it. But with the right tool and a little patience you can get out most every one of them if they look as good as these do.

Brian

Chevymon 09-12-2012 05:22 PM

Brian is right, I just checked another car and those screw threads are all in the cabin part of the car and shouldn't be rusted that bad, but the anchor bolts are another story.

hinges56 09-12-2012 10:30 PM

I've been using a tip that fits well and spraying it with PB the best I could. I didn't know if heating the head would soften it and make it strip easier. I was even using a small sledge hammer with the impact driver. I marked them with a marker on the head and they haven't budged. I tried tightening with driver but so far, no luck. How hot do I need to get the screw before I cool it? I replaced the anchor bolts when I worked on the rusted cowls so it's just the phillips screws. Thanks for all the ideas!

MARTINSR 09-12-2012 11:32 PM

Heating and COOLING the hot bolt is HARDENING it. This is the trick of tricks to get stubborn bolts or nuts off. I was shown this by one of my mentors over 30 years ago when I was working at a full on restoration shop specializing in Early Ford V8s. I have used it in my professional career ever since and it is the holy grail of tricks.

The nearest I can tell is that when you are heating and cooling it is expanding and contracting and the rust looses it's grip. I can't tell you how many bolts like that I have removed when I had tried like you have and once it's heated and cooled removed it by hand with a screw driver without so much as a grunt.

You don't want to get it too hot, only because if you do you are heating the surrounding area so much. But if you get that flame right down on it almost to the point of melting it you are going to heat it to near red or red pretty quickthen spray water on it with a water bottle to cool it fast. Try not to heat the surrounding area, but if you do it isn't the end of the world. What is really neat is to heat the nut or the metal that it is screwed into if you can after you have cooled it and before you try turning it out. This expands the nut releasing the bolt. :)

Brian

MARTINSR 09-12-2012 11:43 PM

By the way, the trick I have used my whole life when it comes to philips head screws, torx screws and allen bolts is to always go to the largest one until it you find the one that won't even fit in it, then go back to the one that is just smaller than that. When you do that you KNOW you have the largest. I have to say often the #3 may fit tight in it but if you went to a #4 it would blow your mind how much TIGHTER it is. You can use a #2 in a #3 screw and it "works", if it's not too tight you can unscrew it. But if it's tight you will mess it up.

I am a nut on using the proper tool, it makes a BIG difference.

For instance I will bet a dollar that very few people you know have a "Posigrip" screw driver in their box, I do. Pozidriv was used by GM for years, I will even find it on late model cars. A phillips screw driver will work. But the posigrip is SOOOOOOO much better it will blow your mind! You can stick the screw on the driver and run across the room with it in your hand and the screw won't fall off. When you stick that sucker in the screw you could put a breaker bar on it and it won't strip that screw head out.

Brian

The Posidriv is the one in the middle.

http://www.bosch-do-it.com.au/mam/bo...icon/bit1.jpeg


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