Pivot ball has a 6-point allen head drive in the other end of it, so it just unscrews from the bellhousing. Depending on if transmission covers that over, you may have to remove the trans to remove the pivot ball.
I want to do the rear main seal and fix some other leaks this winter so I will do everything then. Is there some place on the bell house to look for casting numbers to identify the correct parts. I looked and couldn't find anything
Fork looks correct, but that ball is a typo, it isn't a "clutch fork pivot ball", it is a "clutch cross shaft pivot ball", it screws into the block near the oil filter for the clutch cross linkage to pivot off of. Not what you are looking for.
. The clutch arm and ball are always a "sloppy" fit... that's called clutch linkage clearance... it's needed to ensure there is NO pressure on the clutch when your foot is off the pedal so the clutch doesn't slip... "noise" usually comes from the throwout bearing going bad...
. The ball and arm seldom need anything unless the ball has worn a hole through the arm where they contact... or the arm cracks... just grease the ball so it can pivot in the arm friction free...
. The clutch linkage should be adjusted so that the clutch pedal feels like it touches nothing for its first 1/4" - 1/2" of depressing...
Buzz, based on your description the fork and ball are in good condition. The squeaking sound stops if I gently lift up on the clutch fork. When I put the fork back in I packed the indent with grease. It still makes noise. I will adjust the pedal play to .5 inch and see what that does.
I have an inch of play right now and I only know that because I adjusted to 1 inch based on a recommendation from this site. It was even looser than that and was shifting real hard once the motor and trans warmed up.
Thanks for all the help
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