[Eric327]

i have a 350 goodwrench crate motor with 10.1's torker2 intake stock 1.94/1.5 valves,.454/.454 lift 272/272 duration hyd cam,stock vac advance distributor carb,stock conveter in 350 turbo,and a 650 double pumper carb with no choke, with a 2 inch spacer plate the one with 4 barrel holes.The mixture screws on the carb are each turned out 2 1/4 turns on each and the idle is at 1100rpm.And also the floats are set at the bottum of the sight hole.

But when i put the car in gear it dies almost as it acts it needs a converter.
but it had a 650 single pumper vac seondary and idle fine in gear but did not have spacer plate on it.

I think it could be possibly be the spacer plate orcould mabe even need jetted higher?

iam not for sure but i just need other opinions thanks i could use help on the bugger.
Thanks Eric.

[tnsmith10]

sounds like it might be either low energy from the distributor, or a big vacuum leak. any other info u can add?

[onovakind67]

How about losing the spacer plate and putting the old carb back on? Sounds like a big vacuum leak.

[spinn]

torquer 2 ? why didnt you go tunnel ram ?...lol

[larryblack]

Idling at 1100 rpm, you may not be using the idle circuit and probably are in the transistion circuit.

I would loose the spacer first, get the carb to work then add the spacer. No sense fighting two items at once. Make sure you have NO vacuum leaks.

How much vacuum do you hold at idle and what size power valve is in the carb? The number on the power valve needs to be 1.5 to 2.5 lower than the vacuum level at idle. IE 8.5 vacuum reading you need 6.5 or 5.5 power valve.

Secondly, if you have the transistion circuit uncovered to make it idle, you need to either open the secondary slightly, or drill a small hole in each primary butterfly to allow more air at a lesser opening.

[onovakind67]

With a Crane 105072 cam you should have well over 15" vac at idle, and the idle should be very steady at 750 rpm.

[curtis73]

I would check for the vacuum leak first, but you also said stock distributor. Don't use stock timing, you'll need a lot more initial to get that to idle well. I wouldn't be happy without a complete re-curve of that ignition. More initial, proper total, then an adjustable vacuum advance can.

I also agree that at 1100 rpms you're way into the primaries and off the idle circuit. You should be able to get a nice almost stock idle speed with that cam. More initial will let you drop the idle screw back down getting you back into the idle circuit.

[Eric327]

thanks for the replys is was the spacer and the power valve wasnt stiff enought ty for the replys.